'The Sopranos' takes the cake and the cannoli as far as shows with food go

Jan. 9—A common denominator during the unparalleled six-season run of "The Sopranos" was food. It didn't matter if the scene was humorous or tragic. Not long after the bloodshed or a macabre punchline was delivered, there was gravy-covered pasta followed by a cannoli.

Steve Schirripa, who played Bobby "Bacala" Baccalieri, broke bread with the late iconic actor James Gandolfini and the rest of the acclaimed cast on and off the set.

"Food was a huge part of the show," Schirripa said, while calling from New York. "It was fitting since Italians eat at all times. We eat when we're happy. We eat when we're sad. We even go to a restaurant to break up."

"The Sopranos," which debuted 25 years ago (Jan. 10, 1999) and changed the course of TV, revolved around culinary delights. It was apparent from the pilot when Tony's mother Olivia failed to show up for her grandson A.J.'s 12th birthday with baked ziti.

The pre-pubescent voiced his displeasure when it was evident that his favorite dish was MIA at his soiree."So what, no bleepin' ziti now?" Robert Iler, who portrayed A.J., blurted out in front of his parents and the parish priest. Speaking of the latter, Father Phil, was often visiting his favorite family to sample Carmela Soprano's Italian delicacies. The padre chowing down aggravated her husband Tony, played to perfection by the aforementioned Gandolfini.

When discussing mob activities, Tony Soprano would often enjoy a "gabagool," aka capicola, and peppers sandwich at Satriale's. There were Sunday dinners with a full-course spread and then there was Artie Buco's restaurant. Tony Soprano's longtime friend, who owned Vesuvio and Nuovo Vesuvio, fed the mob boss and his minions, despite his wife Charmaine's objections.

"The Sopranos" was ahead of its time. Buco, played by the versatile John Ventimiglia, served burrata to Carmela Soprano, who like most of the audience was unfamiliar with the Italian cheese, which is made from mozzarella and cream.

"I had it flown in this morning by FedEx from Italy," Buco said. "It's a lot more subtle and smooth than mozzarella with an almost nut-like flavor."

Burrata is very popular in Italian restaurants, but that was not so in 2001. But Sopranos creator David Chase had a unique vision, which set "The Sopranos" apart from other programs.

Sometimes the actors played with their food during scenes and on other occasions they consumed what was on their plate. During an early morning shoot, a chicken dish was prepared.

"I was allowed to eat chicken cacciatore at 7 o'clock in the morning," Schirripa said. "It was amazing. I ate a lot on the show."

Food was used as a weapon. Tony Soprano's mistress Gloria Trillo, played by Annabella Sciorra, fired a London Broil at her lover during an argument. And then there is the classic scene when Tony and Buco engage in a food fight during a party in the Soprano's kitchen.

When Johnny Cakes are mentioned, fans recall Vito Spatafore's (Joseph R. Gannascoli) passion for his favorite chef and flapjacks. One of the most beloved and hilarious Sopranos episodes is when Christopher Moltisanti (Michael Imperioli) and Paulie Gualtieri (Tony Sirico) are lost in the Pine Barrens after a mob hit goes awry. The wise guys have nothing to eat but ketchup packets after they fight over Tic Tacs.

The sociopathic Moltisanti shot an employee at a pastry shop in the foot for making him wait for his order. Who can forget the scene when slimy Ralphie (Joe Pantoliano) shares his secret to his scrambled eggs with Tony just before one of the most violent acts in the show's eventful history is committed? Food was such a huge component during "The Sopranos" run. That was so even off camera. Schirripa noted that catering always impressed.

"They fed us well," he said. "Every day there was soppressata and provolone. We never went hungry."

Fans don't have to go hungry while streaming the show. "The Sopranos Family Cookbook: As Compiled by Artie Bucco," hit shelves in 2002. It's a collection of classic Italian-American dishes.

Perhaps a recipe or two can be tapped for a Sopranos viewing party. It's fitting that the final Sopranos meal takes place in a diner, with the family finally agreeing on the onion rings.

"Best in the state, as far I'm concerned," Tony declared.

What happens after the following scene is still debated. Why not continue the analysis over a plate of pasta featuring macaroni with marinara or veal pizzaiola?

Mangia!