Lisa Armstrong’s London Fashion Week diary: The grandes dames hit the front row
Day two and the front row at London Fashion Week is officially teeming with British grandes dames. Dame Kristin Scott Thomas was at Erdem’s show at the British Museum, along with Ruth Wilson MBE and Lily James.
Meanwhile, Rosamund Pike was on Molly Godard’s front row (remember Pike wore a frothy Goddard dress to the 2021 Golden Globes).
Also present in spirit: American-Greek grande Maria Callas who inspired Erdem’s beautiful collection, more of which in a moment. (These in addition to Dame Joanna Lumley at Completed Works on Friday).
At Roksanda’s Corbusier-inspired show, staged at Tate Britain (LFW has gone high brow this February), Dame Judi Dench narrated the soundtrack and Golda Rosheuvel, who stars in Bridgerton and its spin-off Queen Charlotte as the eponymous royal, looked truly majestic in a Roksanda-designed neon orange voluminous top.
Rosheuvel, unusually, confesses to thoroughly enjoying dressing up for the red carpet. You can tell she has oodles of poise and self confidence from the way she carries off those rococo wigs in Bridgerton.
The red carpet is just like taking on another role, she says. No point in not enjoying it, if it’s part of your job.
Roksanda’s (and Goddard’s) dazzling contrasts (think Rothko) always make me want to explore the colour spectrum. I’m sure they’re one of the reasons both designers strongly appeal to the art world and to anyone wanting to make an impact without feeling trussed up in conventional body con.
Zawe Ashton, who was such enjoyable company a decade ago when I interviewed her while she was in Fresh Meat, and who 16 months ago gave birth to her and Tom Hiddleston’s son, was also there in floor-length cobalt blue Roksanda pleats. These are full-on looks for mid morning but cosplay is what actors do. In any case, Ashton told me her dress was extremely comfortable. It looked it – in an elegant, effortless way, which is another Roksanda trait.
Ashton was slightly concerned about her hair, although it looked fine to me. Time was, designers sent hair and make-up squads to prep their VIP guests, but budgets are tighter these days.
They still all look good. Dame Kristin was immaculate in a spring green Erdem coat and photo-ready hair and make up. Maybe, in this instance, a glam squad had been dispatched.
This is Erdem’s 38th collection and his shows are reliable highlights. His shapes – slender sheath dresses, nipped in or cropped, shawl collared jackets and full skirts – have been refined to perfection.
His clients tend to be ultra-chic and fond of a style of dressing that’s charmingly formal and very British. I loved the beaded cropped jackets. But I’d also take one of the gold, long stemmed rose brooches which would transform even a vest into an evening statement.
When I asked two Parisian department store merchandisers whether they stocked Erdem, they shook their hands wistfully. “French women only wear black tuxedos at night,” they said. “That’s the extent of their dressing up.” Unlike my friend Marie, a loyal and ultra elegant Erdem fan who was there despite a broken arm. But then, Erdem had designed her a sling to match her checked suit. That’s style.
Tomorrow’s highlights at London Fashion Week include Emilia Wickstead and JW Anderson
