Jonathan Saunders Envisions a DVF Beyond the Wrap Dress
If you type DVF into Google, the search engine predicts "wrap dress" as your next search terms. That's how linked the designer is to the iconic dress she created in the 1970s and subsequently built a brand around.
But Jonathan Saunders, who was named chief creative officer of DVF in May of 2016 (a new role which will give the Scottish designer creative direction of the brand), is loosening the ties. His first collection for the brand, presented this weekend to small groups of editors in lieu of a splashy show, did not include a single classic wrap dress.
"You just have to think more abstractly," Saunders said. "You think about what a wrap dress is-it's an effortless dress that you can put on very easily. It's flattering. It's kind of elegant and sensual at the same time. [When designing] I had to ask myself: Is it effortless? Is it sensual?"
And for the most part, the pieces Saunders presented for his first collection for the brand-created in an impressive three months time-answered those key questions: there were easy-to-wear silk handkerchief dresses; one-shoulder tops with a loose ruffle running diagonally across the front; wide-leg pants with a folded-over waist; and all of it in a pleasing mash-up of prints and colors that felt as much in line with Saunders' recently-shuttered namesake line as it did with DVFs style ethos.
Sure, some of it felt a little bit like an amalgam of what's "cool" right now: a mixed-print dress bore some resemblance to the new Balenciaga, some Rosie Assoulin-inspired volume, and there's certainly a hint of Celine, fashion's favorite inspiration, throughout.
[contentlinks align="left" textonly="false" numbered="false" headline="Related Story" customtitles="Diane von Furstenberg Spring/Summer 2017" customimages="" content="gallery.28771"]
But it's quite a challenge to take on a well-known 40-year-old brand with its founder still a force in the industry. "Diane is the founder of the company-she has amazing understanding of what women want and how they feel and how they dress," Saunders says. "...it's been an amazing position to walk into and it's quite a good challenge."
All in all, it's a refreshing and welcome reset for the brand.
You Might Also Like
