A guide to Memphis, the birthplace of blues and rock 'n' roll

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

It’s the music that draws most visitors to Memphis. Dubbed the official home of the blues and the birthplace of rock ’n’ roll, the city in southwest Tennessee has served as the launching pad for countless stars, from Elvis Presley to B.B. King. But this is not a place to rest on its laurels. This quietly cool metropolis is constantly reinventing itself, playing host to exciting new events and transforming derelict warehouses into cool coffee shops, chef-owned restaurants and chic hotels.

The city’s inventive spirit is on full display in the South Main Arts District. Once a bustling commercial hub due to its proximity to a railroad, the area has been repurposed as a kooky neighbourhood where murals festoon the streets and historic buildings house high-end galleries, loft apartments and designer boutiques. Head to Stock&Belle for its unique emporium of clothing and home furnishing; South Main Book Juggler for an ever-changing collection of new and used titles; and the Jack Robinson Gallery to view the 20th-century photographer’s collection of celebrity portraits. Regular art walks and lively events also run throughout the district, including the weekly Memphis Farmers Market and the monthly, community-run Trolley Night, during which shops remain open late and various bars and restaurants offer specials.

When it comes to dining, the fantastically retro, family-run Arcade Restaurant is a South Main staple. Opened in 1919 and now in the hands of its fourth generation of owners, the diner was a frequent haunt of Elvis Presley and still serves his beloved peanut butter and banana toasties. Just around the corner, Central BBQ is the spot for slow-smoked Memphis-style barbecue, such as tender pulled-pork sandwiches topped with slaw, fall-off-the-bone ribs and beef brisket nachos. For the after hours, Earnestine & Hazel’s is a storied dive bar serving unfussy burgers and beers — and is said to be haunted, with reports of a jukebox playing by itself and mysterious orbs appearing in photos. Alternatively, for flavours from around the world, consider catching the bus from here to the jazzy, bohemian quarters of Cooper-Young Historic District out in the suburbs.

The most prominent site in South Main, however, is the one that changed the neighbourhood, the city and the world. The National Civil Rights Museum, housed inside the former Lorraine Motel, is where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated in 1968. Today, this comprehensive exhibition provides a powerful and poignant depiction of America’s civil rights movement, and its links to Memphis, from the 1600s to the present day.

A parallel history to the civil rights movement can be found across the street at The Blues Foundation’s Blues Hall of Fame, where immersive exhibits, art and other memorabilia educate visitors on various icons such as B.B. King and Bonnie Raitt. For a more peaceful pitstop, take the half-mile walk to Tom Lee Park, a recently renovated, 31-acre space with superlative Mississippi River views.

Six blocks north is Beale Street, an iconic thoroughfare packed with all kinds of juke joints, shops and museums and one of the world’s top places to hear live music since it gained notoriety in the Roaring Twenties. Delve even deeper into the legends who shaped the global music scene at the Memphis Music Hall of Fame with interactive exhibits, rare video performances and interviews. Then, experience it for yourself at B.B. King’s Blues Club, a supper club-style restaurant that hosts some of the biggest names in blues, classic soul and rock ’n’ roll. For shopping, Beale’s last remaining original business, A Schwab, is the perfect place to pick up vintage souvenirs, while Peoples on Beale, the oldest bar in Memphis, invites guests to play pool on 100-year-old tables.

No visit to Memphis is complete, however, without paying homage to its king — the late, great Elvis Presley. A half-hour walk west of Beale Street, Sun Studio is the hit factory which created the first rock ’n’ roll track in 1951 with the release of Rocket 88 and is the place where Elvis paid $3.98 (￡3) to record his debut single That’s All Right. Further out is Graceland, Elvis’s former home, which, despite opening more than four decades ago, still averages 600,000 a year, making it the second-most visited home in the US, beaten only by the White House. Inside, hyper-themed rooms drip in the dramatics, while the sprawling exhibition showcases more than 1.5 million artefacts, including his gold records, jewelled jumpsuits and gleaming fleet of Cadillacs.

Three more neighbourhoods to explore

1. Cooper-Young Historic District
A creative current runs through Cooper-Young. Located in Midtown Memphis, this up-and-coming arts district is packed with historic homes, restaurants, galleries and bars. Be sure to stop by the Beauty Shop, a southern restaurant set inside a former 50s-style salon, where Priscilla Presley, Elvis’s ex-wife, used to have her beehive tweaked.

2. Soulsville
This historic South Memphis neighbourhood got its name after the global soul music explosion ignited there in the middle of the 20th century. Devote a half-day to dance through the exhibits of the Stax Museum and celebrate the area’s musical greats, including Otis Redding, Aretha Franklin and Isaac Hayes. Afterwards, take a tour of the Victorian-era Elmwood Cemetery to hear tales of the area’s notorious musicians, civil rights leaders and outlaws.

3. West Memphis
Hop across the pond via the Big River Crossing, which, at nearly a mile in length is the longest public pedestrian bridge across the Mississippi. From here, there’s all sorts of enthralling outdoor adventures, such as bird watching and hiking at Wapanocca National Wildlife Refuge or cycling the 70-mile Big River Trail System.

Published in the October 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).

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