Why rose-gold watches remain at the top of our wish list, while Rolex embraces its feminine side

Flattering to most skin tones, rose gold – its pinkish tint deepening according to the amount of copper alloyed with the pure gold – is a fashion that refuses to die. A rose-gold bracelet and a scattering of diamonds can transform the simplest silhouette into an object of desire.

The Omega Constellation family was launched in 1952, but it was 30 years before the brand developed the sleek Manhattan model. Last year, it was revamped in the form of 101 mechanical and quartz versions, including some in Omega’s proprietary ‘Sedna’ gold.

At Harry Winston, even an everyday watch would be incomplete without a smattering of sparkle. Accordingly, the case of the Midnight Automatic 29mm is edged with 64 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Clockwise from top left: 18ct-rose-gold and diamond Happy Sport, price on request, Chopard. 18ct-rose-gold and diamond Twenty-4 Automatic, ￡34,730, Patek Philippe. 18ct-rose-gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl Midnight Automatic 29mm, ￡28,300, Harry Winston. Sedna-gold and diamond Constellation Manhattan Ladies Quartz 28mm, ￡12,800, Omega. 18ct-rose-gold, mother-of-pearl and diamond Lvcea Tubogas, ￡31,200, Bulgari

Addressing the call for women’s mechanical watches, Patek Philippe last year introduced a self-winding version of its Twenty-4. With a 36mm round case and diamond-dusted bezel, a host of considered details add to the fresh interpretation of this thoroughly modern day-to-night watch.

Chopard’s Happy Sport has seen many joyful iterations over its 25 years. For 2019, the self-winding Happy Sport has a supple rose-gold galet bracelet similar to the one that graced the 1993 debut, its links echoing the pebble- shaped case. The namesake ‘happy’ diamonds move freely like water droplets between two plates of sapphire crystal.

And it is not just the veterans who are seeing red. Barely five years old, Lvcea is now one of Bulgari’s bestselling models. Last year it was presented on the house’s hallmark Tubogas bracelet, inspired by flexible, metal gas pipes. The 33mm diamond-set, rose-gold version with mother-of-pearl dial and self-winding movement draws the most attention.

Rolex shines on

The archetypal image of a Rolex is as a utilitarian, professional tool. But the brand has long created some of the most beautiful timepieces for women. And it is reminding us of its feminine side with increasingly intricate gem-setting.

Datejust 31 watch in white gold with diamonds, ￡43,900, Rolex

Once an outsourced task, stones are now selected by in-house gemologists, who assess clarity, symmetry and colour. They work closely with designers and engineers to ensure technical requirements are not hampered by aesthetics.

Only once every department is happy with the minutiae do stones touch metal, the setter adapting the placement of each gem to find the optimal position for reflection and sparkle, using four traditional techniques: bead, claw, bezel and channel setting. The brand that has blazed adventure trails on land, air and sea is now shining in a whole new arena.

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