Why now is the best time to visit Portugal's vibrant, balmy second city
Winter is a great time to visit Portugal’s cool and vibrant second city.
Why go now
City breaks that do not require layers of wrapping up at this time of year are a welcome thought. While Porto is in Portugal’s cooler north, it should still feel relatively balmy compared with the UK and – even better – free of summer crowds.
This year marks the 500th anniversary of the start of the first circumnavigation of the world by Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan, who was born not far from Porto – so now is an apt time to visit the interactive World of Discoveries museum, which reveals the fascinating history of the early explorers (worldofdiscoveries.com; €14/￡12.60; €8/￡7).
In fact, overall, there is a real buzz to Porto right now, with a raft of new restaurants such as Tapisco (tapisco.pt/porto) and chic boutique hotels such as Maison Albar Le Monumental Palace (maison-albar-hotels-le-monumental-palace.com), opening up all over the city. Direct flights are available from London, Liverpool, Birmingham, Manchester and Edinburgh. Try Ryanair (ryanair.com), BA (britishairways.com) and easyJet (easyjet.com) or check Skyscanner (skyscanner.net) to compare fares.
Stay here
The Yeatman (1) (telegraph.co.uk/tt-yeatman) still sets the bar high with its decanter-shaped infinity pool, Michelin-starred dining and views of Porto’s colourful medieval houses across the Douro river. Splash out and you can sleep in an old port barrel in the Presidential Suite, but simpler room-only doubles start at ￡135.
If you prefer the convenience of staying in the city centre, try the well-priced Porto A.S. 1829 Hotel (2) (telegraph.co.uk/tt-porto-as-1829). It is charmingly converted from an ancient stationery shop down town. Doubles from ￡76.
Walk here
Start your stroll at the early 20th-century Sao Bento Railway Station (3). It is clad in 20,000 tiles which depict scenes from Portuguese history. Then continue on to the Baroque Clerigos Tower (4), built by Nicolau Nasoni and the country’s tallest at 249ft. If you are feeling energetic, climb the 240 steps for a view over the city, coastline and the Douro valley, before visiting the richly gilded interiors of 15th-century Sao Francisco Church (5).
Look out for the Tree of Jesse on the north wall, in gilded and painted wood. It was carved by Filipe da Silva and Antonio Gomes between 1718 and 1721 – a couple of centuries after the church was built.
See this
If you are interested in contemporary art, there is a fine collection at the Serralves museum (6). It was designed by the Pritzker prize-winning architect Alvaro Siza Vieira, a local of the city, and is set in a beautiful park. A special exhibition of works by Joan Miró continues until March 3 (serralves.pt). If you prefer Old Masters and a more historic collection, then dip instead into the Soares dos Reis National Museum (7) (museusoaresdosreis.gov.pt).
Try this
You can’t visit Porto without tasting the wine that takes its name and still underpins an important part of the city’s economy. So a tour of one of the port wine cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia is not to be missed. I suggest Taylor’s (8), which was founded in 1692 and is still going strong as an independent wine house. A visit here will include samples of chip-dry and late-bottled vintage ports as well as an audio guide (taylor.pt/en/visit-taylors, €15).
Shop here
Porto is famous for the craftsmen who produced remarkably subtle and elegant gold filigree work but. For a 21st-century take on the goldsmith’s craft, look at the designs of highly acclaimed Luisa Rosas in the family store on Avenida da Boavista (9). Rather less expensive, Portuguese olive oil is superb, fruity and full of flavour. Despite this, it is surprisingly little known so enjoy exploring the variety on sale at Oliva & Co on Rua de Ferreira Borges (10).
Drink here
A leisurely stop at the belle-epoque Cafe Majestic (11) is a must if you want to experience the strong coffee culture of the city. Ask for a bica (espresso) to have it in true Portuguese style (cafemajestic.com). Cocktails on the riverfront at The George (12) – inspired, of course, by port wine – make an ideal beginning to the evening. This new restaurant and bar comes from the respected stable of Sandeman (thegeorge.pt).
Eat here
Chef Rui Martins delivers delicious fried cuttlefish with coriander and lime mayonnaise, served on vibrantly decorated pottery plates, at Restaurant a Brasileira (13) – a recent and valuable addition to what was already an impressive Porto dining scene (mains around €12; pestanacollection.com/pestana-porto-brasileira). Enjoy typically Portuguese deep-fried green beans with tartar sauce at Cantinho do Avillez (14), outpost of leading chef Jose Avillez, who holds two Michelin stars for his Belcanto restaurant in Lisbon (mains from €20; cantinhodoavillez.pt/en).
Off the map
Cruise down the Douro for the day between the steep, green, terraced vineyards (cruzeiros-douro.pt).
