Why we're still in love with St Ives

Revisit an old favourite this summer, suggests Gill Charlton, our Cornwall expert. You’ll find Scandi style, picturesque hiking routes, the best burgers in Britain and the Tate St Ives, which, earlier this week, was named the Art Fund Museum of the Year for 2018.

Go now

The quality of the summer light in St Ives has inspired generations of artists. Tate St Ives has doubled in size and a major Patrick Heron retrospective has just opened. For a quieter time and to enjoy the cultural side of the resort, visit now before the bucket-and-spade crowds arrive. Travel down by train (gwr.com) or leave your car at Lelant Saltings and ride the branch line around the bay.

St Ives - City map

Stay here

Lovers of Scandi style will delight in Trevose Harbour House (2) (trevosehouse.co.uk), a few steps from the harbour. Doubles cost from ￡165 including breakfast. Rather cheaper and offering a particularly warm welcome as well as panoramic sea views, West by Five (1) (westbyfive.com) is the best B&B in town. Doubles cost from ￡120, including breakfast.

Walk here

You can, of course, simply wander the alleys of the Downalong area or stroll along the harbour front and town beaches. But if you are feeling energetic, take the coastal path to Zennor, a three-hour hike along the cliffs. Look out for seals on the offshore Carracks (rocky islands). Reward yourself with a pint at the medieval Tinners Arms before catching the bus back.

See this

Tate St Ives (3) (tate.org.uk) has a superbly curated permanent exhibition of works by leading 20th century St Ives artists. The new galleries will display Patrick Heron’s glorious vibrant abstracts until Sept 30. Entry ￡9.50.

Try this

The gentle swell that rolls on to Porthmeor Beach just below Tate makes it ideal for learning to surf. St Ives Surf School (4) (stivessurfschool.co.uk) offers lessons for all levels.

Pub walks | Routes that start and end at a characterful inn

Shop here

Fore Street (5) has the best of the resort’s many art galleries and leisure clothes shops. For studio ceramics visit St Ives Ceramics (6) (st-ives-ceramics.co.uk) in Fish Street. For unusual gifts and exotic jewellery head for Sweet Lime (7) (sweetlimeuk.com) on Wills Lane.

Drink here

Porthmeor Café (8) (porthmeor-beach.co.uk) has an open-air cocktail bar with a grandstand view of surfers in action. Try the basil bramble fizz (￡7.50) or split a jug of sangria (￡15).

The best hotels in Cornwall

Eat here

Beachside Porthminster Café (9) (porthminstercafe.co.uk) wins accolades for its modern take on fish and seafood classics, as well as its picture-postcard view of the harbour; around ￡40 per person including wine. Alternatively, Blas (10) (blasburgerworks.co.uk) in the Warren serves possibly the best burgers in Britain. Join the locals at West on Porthmeor Beach (5) for a superb stone-baked pizza May-September.

Off the map

Take the bus to Marazion and – at low tide – walk across to St Michael’s Mount (stmichaelsmount.co.uk) and its colourful gardens, which are at their best in June. At high tide, the mount is cut off by the sea, but a small ferry will run you across for ￡2. Entry ￡15, closed Saturdays.