Whisky and sherry, an unlikely perfect marriage?
Cynics might initially question an attempt to splice the stories of a single malt from the shifting mists of Skye in Scotland, with a sherry from solar-powered southern Spain. Scotlandâs north west coast shelters from around 265 days of wind and rain, while the sun-baked sherry region basks, (and occasionally shelters) from 300 days of rays.
The terrain, the light, the climate, the culture, it can all, on the surface at least, appear quite mismatched. Granted the whisky industry has matured in sherry barrels for centuries, but the similarities could appropriately end there. And yet on a recent trip to the sherry triangle with Talisker, I was staggered at how in tune the two turned out to be.
The trip to Spain was to witness the launch of the Talisker Bodega Series, the first incarnation being a Talisker 40-year-old. After 40 years luxuriating in American oak, this extraordinary whisky has enjoyed a three to four month finishing spell in Amontillado barrels from one of the worldâs finest and oldest sherry producers, Delgado Zuleta.
Talisker identified Delgado Zuleta as a suitor after discovering trade ledgers at the Talisker distillery which linked the two companies during the early 1900s. This provided an initial connection, meanwhile since both sherry and the Talisker 40-year-old was initially rested in American oak, the two camps identified a synergy with the liquid, barrels and the businesses.
But despite contrasting conditions, each locale also throws up some kinship. Delgado Zuleta for example, is based in the Marco de Jerez region of Spain, next to the coastal town of SanlĂșcar de Barrameda; while Talisker is set by the sea on Skye. For both parties, this proximity to water has an influence.
In the case of the sherry, the cellars are built on chalk and the sea provides underground flow of water to deliver a consistent and natural humidity. Equally important is the sea breeze, which acts as a natural coolant for the sherry flor - the film of yeast that sits on top of the sherry as it evolves in the barrel.
For Talisker, the romance of the wind swept coastal region is often attributed to the flavour profile. The gales are salt infused, and they whip across the distillery and through barrel cellars, while production water is drawn directly from the nearby Hawk Hill. The shape of the stills at Talisker and the process of maturation all play a role in the final character of the whisky, but with location in mind itâs far from coincidence the spirit is famed for its slightly salty note.
But the similarities go beyond the spirit and wine. The cuisine in these regions is not only aligned, in that both celebrate the sea, but both provide establishments celebrated with Michelin honours. With three stars, Aponiente in Puerto de Sta MarĂa is as innovative as it is delicious, exclusively serving seafood.
The epic restaurant also sits on sits in a 19th-century tide mill, which enhances the experience. While the Skye restaurant scene has been historically showered with Michelin tributes for its seafood, Michael Smithâs Loch Bay is the current star, combining Skye Fruits de Mer with a French flourish.
Even at a simple level there are matches that marry the two - sea food, cured meats, cheese - Talisker whisky for me has always represented the perfect pairing when it comes to these dishes, and sherry also fits the bill.
Seafaring is another obvious synergy, both factoring the water into lifestyle. Having had the privilege of experiencing a yacht trip off Skye and now off the sherry coastline into the waters off Cadiz, I can report both are equally stunning. Skye for the brace of gale and epic rugged landscape view; Spain for the restful recline in a breezeless bobbing boat.
Yet there is only one synergy that needs further highlighting here: the liquid itself.
The Talisker 40-year-old Bodega Series is based on a glorious foundation whisky, a 1978 Vintage, aged in refill American casks, and one of the oldest Talisker has released. This is then finished in five, hand-picked and elite casks that once held the Bodegaâs finest 40-year-old Amontillado sherry. The casks themselves transported by sea to Skye where the finishing occurred.
When opening the bottle I had the benefit of trying the whisky next to a glass of the Delgado Zuleta Quo Vadis, Amontillado VORS and sampling together was incredible.
The aroma of the whisky when compared with the sherry brings home that final synergy. The sherry is evident on the nose of the whisky, but the smoke and oak ensure remarkable complexity. On the palate, the whisky delivers a hint of the sherry, but nothing to overpower the core character of Talisker, or the luxury of its 40 years in oak. The subtle sweet smoke is in place, the hint of salt and pepper, and nothing has been overawed by the oak, the liquid has simply mellowed. Even at 50 per cent, its enhanced warm winter fruit is balanced with a fresh grape.
The packaging also celebrates the commitment to the links. The familiar Talisker bottle displays a label design inspired by the arches of the sherry Bodegas and the sundial of SanlĂșcar de Barrameda where the Delgado Zuleta casks are housed.
Itâs rare a project of this nature can deliver something so sincere, doubters might even ask if a 40-year-old whisky needs this finish, but the connection is far from contrived, and that final flourish of sherry really does the spirit justice. All told, itâs an extraordinary whisky that genuinely binds the two regions.
With only 2,000 bottles produced for the UK at ïżĄ2,750, this will be in high demand when released to selected luxury retailers globally at the end of June. For those lucky enough to secure a bottle, my suggestion of how to drink it is simple enough. Head to Skye with a bottle and sip on a hill top while you brace yourself against the wind and waves; then fly directly to a yacht off the coast of the Sherry Triangle. As different as these journeys sound, with the whisky theyâre inseparably beautiful.
Tom Sandham is one of the Thinking Drinkers, an award-winning drinks writer and comedy duo who will perform their new show at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival and across the UK this year. For dates visit thinkingdrinkers.com
