Where to stay in Italy – the safest regions and places to avoid now you can travel quarantine-free
On June 3, for the first time since the country was plunged into one of Europe’s strictest coronavirus lockdowns, Italy reopened its borders to international tourism.
The Italian Minister of Health’s official website reports that new cases of coronavirus have been dwindling daily since the country eased its stay-at-home orders in early May. Rather than flinging the door wide open, Italy has, prudently, cracked it slightly, giving only holiday-goers from the UK, the EU and Schengen Area a green light to enjoy la dolce vita (at least for now).
All airports have resumed direct international flights and it’s possible to move freely between regions. The mandatory 14-day self-quarantine has been lifted for those entering Italy from the countries mentioned above, along with Andorra, Monaco, San Marino and Vatican City. Hotels, bars, restaurants, shops and museums have been spruced up and are eager to welcome visitors again.
? When can I travel to Italy? See the latest advice
Government guidelines may change rapidly and without warning; be sure to check the latest FCO advice before booking and/or travelling to any destination.
Where to stay
1. Umbria
Barely an hour from Rome, picturesque Umbria is characterised by swathes of emerald green valleys, enigmatic Etruscan ruins and germanium-hung hamlets. Once dismissed as “the new Tuscany”, Umbria has come out from the shadow of its more touristy neighbour to the north. Wide-open spaces speckled with country villas and rustic agriturismi (farm stays)—many have apartments with full kitchens, large gardens and pools—make it easy for holidaymakers to practice social distancing while living the good life, Italian style.
Rent a car and plot a course west to medieval Orvieto, whose splendid Gothic cathedral and laid-back atmosphere provide an abundance of simple pleasures. Stretch your legs through cobbled alleyways then grab a table pavement-side to sip a glass of the city’s famed white wine. Head east to Perugia where the Perugina Baci chocolates are made, or on to lovely Assisi, the birthplace of St Francis.
? The best towns and things to do in Umbria
2. Sardinia
The wind-swept Mediterranean island of Sardinia, the second largest in Italy, has miles of pristine coastline rimmed with white quartz beaches and craggy hidden grottoes. It’s the perfect destination to luxuriate amidst unspoilt natural beauty. Inhabited since the Palaeolithic period, prehistoric Nuragic settlements (Barumini is a Unesco World Heritage Site) and remnants of Roman and Phoenician cities dot the ancient landscape. Scenic roads less travelled cut through aromatic Maquis shrubs leading to mountainous shepherd’s villages that produce zesty pecorino cheeses and hearty, ruby red Cannonau wines.
The swanky Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) on the north-eastern side of the island brags the lion’s share of glamourous resorts and luxury hotels, and is the stomping ground for international glitterati. Hire a boat and drop anchor in a secluded cove or set sail around the crystalline waters off La Maddalena Archipelago—a cluster of islets in the Strait of Bonifacio between Corsica and Sardinia. For those seeking to stay under the radar, plenty of private holiday homes are available to let throughout the island.
3. Calabria
Wild and breathtakingly beautiful, Calabria’s magnificent scenery includes inland mountain ranges and beaches of aquamarine water, taking up practically the entire south-western toe of the boot. This best-kept secret might now be out of the bag, yet the region remains sparsely populated with relatively few tourists.
Discover the endearing old town of Tropea, perched on a white cliff above a glinting sea, the tiered town of Stilo imbued with Byzantine architecture, or the city of Reggio di Calabria where, from its seafront promenade, you’re a mere stone’s throw from the island of Sicily.
For sun worshipers, lidos (stabilimenti) are plentiful up and down the coast, offering daily sun lounger and parasol rentals. New procedures recently unveiled by Italy’s Higher Institute of Health (ISS) require reservations to enter private clubs to avoid overcrowding and many public beaches have developed apps to reserve a chunk of sand, ensuring proper spacing between sunbathers.
? Italy's most beautiful beaches
? When and where can I book a villa holiday this year?
4. Molise
Molise, unfamiliar to most foreigners and many Italians too, is located in the south-central part of Italy. With its remote and dramatic landscapes rising from high plains and dipping down into peaceful valleys, the region is a study in contrasts.
Contained within its borders is one of Europe’s most important nature reserves: Parco Nazionale D’Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise. The wilderness land covers 496 square kilometres (192 square miles) and is an outstanding spot for brown bear watching. There are oodles of other outdoor activities to partake in such as hiking, mountain biking, or skiing in the Apennines, and beachcombing on the rugged shores of the Adriatic Sea. Made up of small towns, fishing villages and crumbling fortresses, the region of Molise has one city, Campobasso, which has a population of less than 50,000.
? Abruzzo: the Italian region with beautiful landscapes and ancient villages – but no tourists
5. Basilicata
This region is best known for the intriguing cave city of Matera, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Put on your walking shoes and traverse the maze of sassi (cave dwellings) chiselled into limestone cliffs (many of the former troglodyte domiciles have been converted into boutique hotels and fine restaurants).
The region, flanked by the Ionian and Tyrrhenian seas, is mostly dominated by its interior of volcanic crater lakes and mountain peaks popular with trekkers in the summer and skiers in the winter. One of the first regions to successfully halt coronavirus infections, Basilicata to date has reported no new cases for several weeks running, making it one of the safest places to visit in Italy.
? What to see and do in Matera
Where you should avoid for now
The northern region of Lombardy is Italy’s coronavirus hotspot. Although numbers of deaths and rates of infection have decreased dramatically in recent weeks, they remain the highest in the country. Neighbouring Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna were also hit hard, but are seeing encouraging numbers with each passing day. Regional governments have opted to “put on the breaks” by easing lockdown restrictions more slowly than other parts of the country. They are also keeping stricter guidelines in place for now. Although numbers are dropping steadily of late, steering clear of the epicentre of Europe’s outbreak is recommended this summer.
While getting back to normal may be a long way off, new cases are also decreasing in the region of Veneto. In Venice, local officials are working to regulate the number of visitors entering the city, requiring masks be worn in public spaces and asking adherence to social-distancing guidelines. With proper safeguards in place, even Italy’s iconic cities like Rome and Florence—expected to be remarkably crowd-free this season—can be part of your holiday itinerary.