Waffly delicious: Chicken and waffles is an American classic

Food historians have many theories about the origin of chicken and waffles, from the Pennsylvania Dutch version of the 1600s to the deep-fried ‘n’ griddled goodness they started slinging at Wells Supper Club in Harlem in the 1930s. It was here where owner (and former Cotton Club sensation) Dickie Wells theorized that since folks were coming in post-nightclub, it was too late for dinner and too early for breakfast.

And so, says the story, he decided to serve them both.

These days, there are Southerners who proudly claim chicken and waffles (Gladys Knight’s Chicken & Waffles enjoyed a mostly shiny 10-year run in the Atlanta area beginning in 1997), though not all of them. In fact, more than a few balk at the Southern connection completely, though the pros and scholars will note the dish’s strong similarities to other undeniably Southern staples.

Gumbo filé, the secret sassafras in this Creole classic

Chicken and various kinds of quick bread — biscuits, corn bread — is a very Southern thing. And a waffle, author and former director of the Southern Foodways Alliance John T. Edge told NPR, is not dissimilar.

“[Chicken and waffles is] a Southern dish,” Edge told The Salt, “but a Southern dish once or twice removed from the South.”

Regardless, New Orleans native Keland McWilliams says that at this point, chicken and waffles is simply an American comfort-food staple.

“It’s just one of those things people are drawn to,” he notes, which is why the executive chef and co-owner of The Bayou Kitchen & Lounge (165 Wekiva Springs Road in Longwood, 407-960-6020; thebayouorlando.com) put it on the menu of his Longwood restaurant, where guests can partake of three different versions at brunch, lunch or dinner.

Get plates from the Gram at The Bayou Kitchen & Lounge | Review

“Here, you can have it anytime.”

The sugar pearl waffle, he says, means there’s no syrup necessary (notable, since McWilliams’ admits he’s got a sweet tooth) but they serve the maple stuff alongside, just in case you want it. And you just might, since his partner’s Jamaican background inspired a jerk option. The sweet and the spicy make for nice bedfellows on the plate.

Guests, he says, opt in evenly for all the options, which are generously portioned. Two waffles and boneless breasts make for a hearty meal.

“It sticks to your ribs,” he says. “You eat that for breakfast or brunch, and it’s gonna carry you to dinnertime.”

National Waffle Iron Day (June 29) may celebrate the work this noble appliance does in making the dish possible at home, but hey, it’s nice to have options that don’t include cleaning one. Here are a few others around town…

Alex’s Fresh Kitchen

This Casselberry scratch kitchen is known for many things, including its award-winning Mamba Burger and other decadent plates, but it’s also a haven for gluten-free diners, and among the goodies on the GF roster is this towering take on chicken and waffles.

“It’s a fan favorite because of how the sweet — a little caramel crunch, the vanilla custard sauce — pairs with the savory in every bite,” says chef/owner Alexander Diaz.

That it’s a gluten-free take is notable for those flourless folks in search of their next crave-worthy offering.

(1015 FL-436 in Casselberry, 407-636-5048; alexsfreshkitchenfl.com)

Oviedo has long been a place for chickens. The Local Hen knows it. Their version features sugar pearl waffles, so you can forgo the syrup. Or not. (Amy Drew Thompson/Orlando Sentinel)

The Local Hen

Oviedo knows a thing or two about chickens, so the folks at The Local Hen must be confident in serving it to the residents here. Their new outpost at The Food Factory, where a couple of nice bar options make food pairings essential, slings the poultry like pros, including a juicy, two-breast chicken and waffle combo with a sugar pear waffle so sweet and crispy, you might want to forgo the syrup. Or not. Your plate, your call.

More info: Located at The Food Factory, 888 City Walk Lane in Oviedo, 407-542-0647; thelocalhenoviedo.com)

Reel Fish Coastal Kitchen + Bar

Confused by the placement of yardbird on this seafood-focused menu?

Don’t be, says Reel Fish owner Fred Thimm, whose restaurant is inspired by the fish camps so prevalent along the coasts of the southeastern United States. They’ve got brunch going every Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., and it is on this menu you’ll find the highlighted dish of the day.

“Chicken & Waffles is one of our most popular brunch items,” says Thimm. “It’s two all-natural chicken breasts from Springer Mountain Farms, battered and fried, served with a toasted waffle and fresh watermelon, drizzled with hot honey, sprinkled with powdered sugar with genuine maple syrup and sweet butter on the side.

What makes it special, he notes, is “the generous portion, our commitment to using all-natural ingredients — and it’s delicious!”

More info: 1234 N. Orange Ave. in Winter Park, 407-543-3474; reelfishcoastal.com

Stadium Club

It’s full of tech and color, a vast and immersive two-story venue that is equal parts top-tier sports bar for fans who love to watch and those looking to bring their own dreams of glory — golf, soccer, even post-apocalyptic dodgeball and more — to life.

The menu has predictable inclusions, sure — pizza, wings, nachos, but also surprises and, get this: it’s all created and curated by not one, but two James Beard Foundation-recognized chefs! The average foodie may know them better from their appearances on “Top Chef.” Both are fine indicators that you might want to try their version of chicken and waffles, which features my favored rendition of bone-in chicken with a Southern flourish of a sweet tea brine.

More info: Located at the Caribe Royale Orlando, 8101 World Center Drive in Orlando, 407-554-9950; stadiumclub.com)

Tsaocaa

From China to the U.S., the Tsaocaa brand has taken the States by storm, and admittedly, the vibe here is undeniably fun. Look for more from me on its Winter Springs outpost soon, but for now, fans of chicken and waffles can have both here and, as I did, create a decadent Asian version featuring their Korean-style chicken wings and gorgeous bubble waffles (the spaces between the bubbles are otherworldly-crispy goodness). You might prefer the Taiwanese popcorn-style chicken instead. Whatever’s clever.

More info: 5892 Red Bug Lake Road in Winter Springs, 321-972-1559; tsaocaaflorida.com)

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