The Top Releases From LVMH Watch Week 2024
MIAMI — As the watch industry gears up for its own fairs, this week LVMH Mo?t Hennessy Louis Vuitton held its fifth rendition of LVMH Watch Week — an event that showcased innovations and novelties from the watchmaking maisons within the group.
The event, which ends Thursday, was held in one of Miami Beach’s exclusive enclave neighborhoods, Star Island. Miami was an ideal location for the event, since the coastal metropolis is the second largest tourism hub for international visitors after New York City and the gateway to the Latin American market, a strategically important one for LVMH.
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The 2023 edition, which was held in Singapore, brought together four LVMH watch brands — Bulgari, Hublot, Tag Heuer and Zenith — and for this fifth edition, the event welcomed Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta, two famed brands relaunched within La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton.
Here, WWD rounds up a selection of the top novelties from the brands participating at LVMH Watch Week.
Bulgari
As the icon’s 50th anniversary approaches, the Bulgari Bulgari line has been refreshed with the vintage charm of a 26mm case and with the modern allure of a contemporary size of 38mm, available in either yellow or rose gold.
The yellow gold variant presents a classic black dial, accentuated with gilded numerals and baton indices, while the rose gold model has a silver opaline dial.
Other highlights included a fresh batch of Octo Finissimo automatics, with a yellow gold option that comes with a deep blue dial, as well as a steel version with a Tuscan Copper dial.
Tag Heuer
In the chronograph realm, Tag Heuer’s Carrera collection is growing with the addition of two timepieces, including the Carrera Chronograph Dato 30 in teal green and the Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon.
The Dato 30 comes in a glass box design that features refined ergonomics and a teal green azuré mono subdial at 3 o’clock, symbolizing vintage racing car hues from the ’20s to the ’60s.
This new high-end, stainless steel sport timepiece also boasts a dial elevated with a tourbillon cage at the 6 o’clock position, part of the Tag Heuer Calibre TH20-09 movement, which has bidirectional winding.
Tag Heuer has expanded its offering in the eyewear segment with new designs in collaboration with Italian manufacturer Thélios, also owned by LVMH.
Zenith
The Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar was conceived in 1969, around the time the brand’s El Primero movement was introduced.
Zenith is resurrecting this complication in the form of the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar, offered in three different dials (silver opaline, slate opaline and olive green sunray), and options on bracelet or leather straps. Inspired by a small run of prototypes produced in 1970, the new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar measures 38mm in steel and is powered by a brand new El Primero variant.
The Zenith El Primero 3610 calibre that powers the timepiece operates at a rate of 5 Hz, with timekeeping, calendar, moon phase and delivers a true 1/10th of a second chronograph function.
In addition to the column-wheel chronograph and the date, which are color-matched, there are day and month displays at 10 and 2, respectively, as well as a moon phase nested in the register at 6.
Hublot
Challenging the norms of traditional watchmaking with its distinctive design and cutting-edge features, Hublot has released the MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System Titanium, which consists of a flat case with a flat dial and simple rubber bracelet, in a cylindrical enclosure crafted from titanium that resembles the engine in an F1 vehicle and will be limited to 50 pieces.
The limited-edition piece has four constantly rotating displays: hours and minutes in the upper third of the dial; power reserve reading in the center, and seconds in the lower third.
A piece that counts with no dial, its hands or oscillating weight to speak of will still provide an accurate time reading, featuring a linear winding system, a roller display and a tourbillon inclined at 35 degrees, and is manually wound via the crown at the 12 o’clock position.
Two blocks of white gold, arranged along a vertical axis, wind the movement bidirectionally. Hublot’s engineers have developed a system of shock absorbers to prevent collisions, and the watch boasts a power reserve of more than 48 hours.
Daniel Roth
Daniel Roth presented their latest timepiece, the Tourbillon Souscription. The watch includes a signature style, combined with guilloche dials and blued steel hands. This iteration is adorned in an all-new in-house calibre and a solid gold, guilloche dial. This includes a 4.6mm-thick DR001 Calibre with an 80-hour power reserve, as well as a 1-minute tourbillon, encased in 18-karat yellow gold and paired with a brown calfskin strap.
The brand counts as the first new maison to be joining LVMH Watch Week via La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Last year, Daniel Roth revived its Tourbillon Souscription with a modern take on its signature timepiece.
Gérald Genta
The second addition to this year’s iteration of LVMH Watch Week was Gérald Genta with its famed Mickey Mouse Timepiece. Paying homage to the founder, Gérald Genta, the brand offers up its latest design to celebrate the 100th year of Disney and 40 years of collaboration.
Equipped with its in-house caliber GG-001, the manually wound caliber combines a minute repeater, jumping hour and retrograde minute.
Offered in an octagonal-shaped case crafted in white gold, the watch is cartoonishly decorated with Mickey Mouse as the centerpiece of the dial, with his arms acting as the watch hands.
The dial, in addition to its signature jumping and retrograde display, has been enameled in-house by Nicolas Doublel with a champlevé technique, and features a date window sitting at the 3 o’clock position, in red, black and silver accents.
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