What It’s Like to Stay at the Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto, a Modern Twist on the Traditional Ryokan Inn
Welcome to Checking In, a new review series in which our editors and contributors rate the best new (and revamped) luxury hotels based on a rigorous—and occasionally tongue-in-cheek—10-point system: Each question answered “yes” gets one point. Will room service bring you caviar? Does your suite have its own butler? Does the bathroom have a bidet? Find out below.
Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto
Describe the property in three words: Stylish. Tranquil. Restorative.
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What’s the deal?
Few countries mix the old and new like Japan, and nowhere is this clearer than Kyoto. The country’s ancient capital is a beguiling city where a peaceful shrine, smoky record bar and bustling convenience store can all co-exist in the same block. This has drawn in a flood of tourists since the country reopened its doors in 2022. Fortunately, it’s also led to an influx of new hotels, particularly of the luxury variety, like the Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto.
Nestled in the hills of the city’s Higashiyama ward, a short walk from the famous Kiyomizu-dera Temple, the brand’s first Japanese outpost is a modern-day update of the classic ryokan inn. Architect Kengo Kuma has designed a structure that blends seamlessly into its leafy surroundings, thanks in part to the use of Cypress wood and other natural materials, as well as traditional Japanese building methods. But there’s nothing old fashioned or stuffy about the space. Instead, everything from the lobby to the hallways have a wide-open airiness that’s refreshing, especially after the near-20 hours it can take to reach the hotel from New York. This vibe carries over to the hotel’s 52 rooms, each of which feels like a sanctuary within a sanctuary thanks to their tatami mats, cushy mattresses, and Hiba wood bathtubs.
There’s plenty to see in Kyoto—the city has over 2,000 Buddhist temples and Shinto Shrines, several of which are registered as UNESCO World Heritage Sites—but you may not want to leave the premises, especially if you’re in need of some relaxation. The hotel’s Kappo-style restaurant features a stellar kaiseki course menu that changes by the season, while the bar one level below is a great place to unwind or finish off your conversation from the dinner table. There is even a truly stunning Noh stage, the only one of its kind at a hotel in Kyoto, and a small bamboo garden free of crowds unlike the famous Arashiyama forest. And don’t forget the hotel’s spa and onsen baths, the latter of which are fed by the by the hotel’s own hot spring.
The best room: You can’t go wrong with any of the Onsen Retreat rooms—each of which have their own personal onsen bath—but the Banyan Onsen Retreat King can’t be beat. Located on the top floor, the hotel’s largest room is more of a suite, measuring 801 square feet. There’s a lot to like about the room, but the highlight, without a doubt, is a sitting area overlooking the garden that doubles as the best seat for the Noh stage.
The Rundown
Did they greet you by name at check-in?
If you’ve requested car service, you’ll be greeted upon arrival by name and with a bow. If not, you’re still in for one of the easiest and friendliest check-ins you’ll experience. And if for some reason your room isn’t ready yet, we can’t imagine many will mind waiting in the peaceful lobby, which offers up a tantalizing preview of the hotel’s minimalist decor.
Was a welcome drink ready and waiting when you arrived? (Bonus point if it wasn’t just fruit juice.)
Yes, though it was matcha green tea accompanied by a kohakuto candy, as is the local custom, rather than something with alcohol. A delicious turndown treat will be waiting for you in your room each night, though.
Is there a private butler for every room?
No, but you really don’t need one. Like your room, the hallways of the hotel are quiet and serene, but there’s always a staff member nearby should you have a question, need something, or just want to chat about the historic city.
Is the sheet thread count higher than 300?
The hotel sheets are made from 100 percent Egyptian cotton and have a thread count of 600. We can attest, having fallen asleep within seconds of our heads hitting the pillow, sleeping between them was an absolute delight.
Is there a heated floor in the bathroom? What about a bidet?
We visited during the height of summer, but the temperature in our room—from the tatami mats to the bed to the bathroom—was always just right. And if you’re a fan of bidets, fret not, your bathroom comes equipped with one.
Are the toiletries full-sized?
Toiletries are indeed full-sized and are made by Banyan Tree’s in-house brand, Thai Chamanard. The bath satchets, which you’ll want to try out if you’re staying in one of the Onsen Retreat rooms, are made by local cosmetics outfit Kyonohinoki.
Is there a private pool for the room’s exclusive use? How are the spa and gym?
There isn’t, but the Onsen Retreats have something even better. The hotel is one of a select number of properties in the city’s Higashiyama ward with its own hot spring source, and these rooms, which are located on the second and third floors, feature their own private onsen baths.
Do you want to spend Friday night in the lobby bar?
You’ll have to head up to the hotel’s third floor to find the bar, which is located directly beneath the restaurant. Banyan Tree was still finalizing the space when we visited, but it was already well-stocked with top-shelf liquor—there’s plenty for fans of Japanese whisky—and possessed a suitably mysterious air.
Is there caviar on the room service menu? If so, what kind?
Technically no, but the room service menu has its fair share of seafood options—decadent or otherwise—if that’s what you’re in the mood for. If you’re craving something a little meatier, there’s also Wagyu steaks or a bottle of Champagne if you’d like some bubbles.
Would you buy the hotel if you could?
Yes. Unfortunately, it’s hard to imagine the owner will ever be willing to part with their beautiful, sprawling property, which, even in a city with something to look at on nearly every corner, stands out. Don’t let that stop you from visiting, though.
The Verdict
Japan’s unique mix of futuristic wonder and traditional beauty is a big part of what makes visiting the country so special. But that same stimulation can be overwhelming—especially right off a grueling transpacific flight. Thankfully, the Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto is the ideal refuge from sensory overload. You’ll feel yourself begin to relax once you step foot in the hotel’s serene lobby. Each room, especially the Onsen Retreats, act as its own private sanctuary, providing peace and quiet no matter the time of year and how many tourists are out on the street. It’s an experience so soothing that you’ll want to extend your stay in Kyoto and absorb even more of what Japan’s old capital has to offer.
Rates: From $1,269 per night
Total: 8.5
What Our Score Means:
1-3: Fire your travel agent if they suggest you stay here.
4-6: Solid if you’re in a pinch—but only if you’re in a pinch.
7-8: Very good. We’d stay here again and recommend it without qualms.
9-10: Forget booking a week. When can we move in permanently?
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