Spoiler: You Might Not Have 'Just' Dry Skin After All

From Women's Health

For years, skincare companies have categorized women by the amount of oil they produce (i.e., normal, oily, or dry). The problem? It’s oversimplified and it doesn’t tell the whole story of why, or how, your skin behaves the way it does, explains Barbara Close, founder and CEO of Naturopathica and author of The Naturopathica Effect.

“I take into account factors like diet, genetics, and lifestyle to treat the root of your problems-not just the surface symptoms,” says Close. Years of experience as an aesthetician has led her to classify skin using four holistic “personalities.”

Adaptive skin

The lowdown: Your skin is resilient, balanced, and able to handle changes. It reacts well to new products and different types of weather. “Visually, it has average pore size and minimal breakouts,” says Close.

Your skincare Rx:

1. Wash wisely. You want to remove makeup and debris without stripping your skin’s protective oils. St. Ives’s gentle cleansing stick does just that, thanks to rose water extract.

2. Moisturize regularly. Morning and night, apply a lightweight lotion to keep your skin soft and hydrated. Beautycounter’s uses special sensing technology to adjust to your skin’s hydration needs throughout the day.

3. Brighten with a peel. A chemical exfoliator like Naturopathica’s enzyme-based peel will help dissolve dead cells on your skin’s surface to reveal a glowier complexion. Aim to use it two or three times a week, says Close.

Your diet Rx:

It’s important to maintain a healthy diet (more veggies!). Close also recommends a daily multivitamin that includes A, C, and E (to slow down oxidative stress).

Hormone reactive skin

The lowdown: If you’re prone to acne or oiliness, this is likely you. “This woman is impacted by hormones called androgens,” says Close. They stimulate oil glands to enlarge, overproduce oil, and clog pores.

Your skincare Rx:

1. Invest in a clarifying serum. Look for a formula with salicylic acid. It is anti-inflammatory and cleans out congested pores by dissolving oil. Murad’s contains 1 percent. (This lower percentage is effective without being too drying.)

2. Don't skip moisturizer. You still need hydration (dehydrated skin overproduces oil). Choose a noncomedogenic, lightweight version like Naturopathica’s, which also contains antiseptic rosemary and mattifying alpine willow.

3. Exfoliate regularly. It’s key for removing pore-clogging dead skin cells and oil. L’Oréal Paris’s mask has clay to soak up excess shine, plus yuzu lemon extract to remove impurities.

Your diet Rx:

Cut back on dairy and sweets. “Both are inflammatory, and sugar increases blood glucose, which triggers androgen activity,” says Close. “Try zinc as a supplement-studies show it reduces inflammation and inhibits androgens.”

Stress reactive skin

The lowdown: Dealing with eczema or rosacea? Your skin is highly sensitive (and likely to react poorly) to conditions like lack of sleep, an unhealthy diet, a high-pressure lifestyle, and weather changes.

Your skincare Rx:

1. Cleanse gently. Face washes with sulfates and harsh soaps can further compromise your weak skin barrier. Choose a gentle no-foam formula (like Neutrogena’s) and rinse with cool water-hot can be aggravating.

2. Heal with botanicals. Swap serums with strong acids and actives for something gentler. Trilogy’s is infused with antioxidant-rich chamomile and maqui berry to repair and rebuild damaged skin.

3. Calm with a calendula cream. The flower is perfect for stressed skin, due to its anti-inflammatory properties. Studies show it can also facilitate tissue regeneration, which helps with wound healing.

Your diet Rx:

Avoid red meat, dairy, and spicy foods when possible (they are acid-forming and create heat in the skin, which can cause redness). And increase your intake of omega-3 fatty acids (with foods like salmon) to help skin cells resist irritation.

Mature skin

The lowdown: This refers to skin that is thin, lacks moisture, and is showing signs of aging (lines, sagging, dark spots, etc.). “And it’s not a numbers thing-this can happen in your 20s, 30s, or 40s,” says Close.

Your skincare Rx:

1. Exfoliate while you cleanse. Mature skin doesn’t shed dead surface cells as quickly, which can make it appear dull, says Close. An exfoliating wash like Olay’s nixes those cells and enhances your glow.

2. Get hydrated. Your complexion craves moisture. Up hydration with hyaluronic acid, a humectant that draws moisture to the skin. M-61’s treatment pad contains HA-plus peptides and vitamin E to boost skin firmnes

3. Minimize lines with retinol. The ultimate skin smoother, this vitamin A derivative increases skin cell turnover and prompts collagen production-both essential for a soft, plump complexion. Use it nightly for best results.

Your diet Rx:

Another reason to avoid sugar: It leads to glycation, which causes collagen and elastin to become stiff and accelerates the aging process, says Close. As for supplements, evening primrose (it’s rich in fatty acids) can help counteract oxidative stress.

This article originally appears in the November 2018 issue of Women's Health. For more intel on how to lead a healthier, happier life, pick up an issue on newsstands now.

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