While there are tons of face masks to choose from, there’s one that remains steady at the top of the 2020 trends list: charcoal.
And for good reason: “Activated charcoal has classically been used in medicine for its absorptive qualities,” says Rachel Nazarian, M.D., board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group and assistant clinical professor at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. “Many brands advertise that charcoal acts like a magnet, which is not true. But it does remove dirt and oil from the skin’s surface, which can be especially appealing to those who have oily skin.”
On the flipside, if you’re dry or sensitive, proceed with caution or go for a hydrating product instead. Those with skin conditions like eczema or rosacea should skip charcoal masks altogether to avoid flare-ups, says Dr. Nazarian.
Because charcoal cleans the skin so thoroughly, everyday use is a bit much for most people. That’s why it shines more in a face mask, which you can use less frequently when your skin needs a bit of pampering.
How to choose (and use) the best charcoal face mask
Look for multitaskers: If your goal is brighter, smoother skin, look for a charcoal mask that contains a few other superstars, like alpha or beta hydroxy acids (AHAs and BHAs), says Dr. Nazarian. This includes glycolic, lactic, or salicylic acids. “These things will improve the effectiveness of the product by helping to remove dead skin cells, decrease oil, and give a smoother appearance,” she says.
Don’t overdo it: Using a charcoal mask too frequently can dry out your skin, giving it a dull appearance. Stick with once a week (or even once every two weeks). “When you do use one, I suggest only leaving it on for 10 minutes before washing it off with a gentle, unscented cleanser,” says Dr. Nazarian.
Go all in with moisturizer: Charcoal can wash away beneficial natural oils, so you need to bring moisture back into the skin afterward. “After you’ve washed off the mask, you should use a balancing toner to restore pH levels,” says Rhea Souhleris Grous, an aesthetician and founder of La Suite Skincare at Union Square Laser Dermatology in New York City. “Then, you should use what I call the ‘stacking method.’ Layering products from finest to heaviest—starting with a hydrating serum and ending with a moisturizer.”
Ready to get your #selfcare Sunday on? Check out the best charcoal face masks below: