Shopping Time: Prices for Neo-Vintage Rolex GMT-Masters Are Still Down. Here Are 5 to Buy Now.
We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday we share five standout pieces with you.
A few months ago we shared five Rolex GMT-Masters that you could buy at excellent prices. The big story for Rolex neo-vintage watches this year has been that they are great deals—with the exception of the impossible-to-get Daytona and the skyrocketing Day-Date. But the good news is that prices for the GMT Master II are still excellent, as we are still in a buyer’s market for steel sports watches as prices sag after pandemic collectors and crypto-bros remain absent from the watch scene.
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The Rolex GMT-Master is a cornerstone of the brand’s history, as well as of the entire sport watch genre. The GMT-Master is responsible for delivering one of the most practical complications to a mechanical watch: The ability to track multiple time zones. At the behest of PanAm Airlines at the dawn of the jet-set era, Rolex developed a 24-hour hand with which their pilots could track a second time zone against the now iconic red and blue bicolor bezel. This watch left an indelible impression on the emerging global culture of the 1950s, an impression that persists to this day.
We’ve gathered up five of the best buying options currently on the market, from a lovely Coke to a Rootbeer, a Pepsi, and two all-black iterations. Good stuff at great prices, so let’s dig in.
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Rolex GMT-Master II 16700 | $10,000
As far as five digit GMT-Master II references are concerned, this reference 16700 with a full black bezel is about as stealth as it gets. A sole red stalk of the GMT-hand represents the only moment of color, making this a unique experience, especially today when GMT bezels can only be had in bi-color configurations. This example, from The Keystone, is a prime example of what makes the neo-vintage generation so special. Crisp, brushed lugs sharply define the case, while little signs of wear appear elsewhere. Even the clasp looks to retain its original finish. This watch is an important part of establishing the modern identity of the GMT-Master II, even if it’s not an execution that currently exists in the brand’s catalog.
Rolex GMT-Master II 16718 ‘Tom Sachs’ | $49,000
Okay, we generally don’t feature custom creations in these lists, but this example merits inclusion for its special provenance. Featuring a custom black painted case by artist Tom Sachs, this once gold reference 16718 is one of just five examples. The black paint was applied and intended to wear and chip, slowly revealing the gold case underneath. This example is just beginning to shed some of this skin. For fans of the artist, famous for his collaborations with Nike as well as his modern art sculptures, this watch represents a rare opportunity to be a part of the art itself through wear. This specific example from Wind Vintage is number 3 of 5, and was previously owned by a private art dealer. It is easily the most unique GMT-Master II you’re likely to come across anytime soon.
Rolex GMT-Master II 16710 ‘Coke’ | $10,950
One bi-color bezel configuration that fans of the GMT-Master II have been eagerly awaiting the return of is the so-called ‘Coke’ bezel, composed of black and red. These colors only appear in five-digit references, making it a unique part of this generation’s identity. It offers the same practicality of the BLRO or ‘Pepsi’ bezel, but flies under the radar with ease, unlike its more colorful stable mate. This example, from Craft + Tailored, hails from 1991, and boats original chamfers on the lugs throughout. The dial and bezel show little signs of age, making this a perfect, wearable example of one of the great Rolex GMTs of the ‘90s.
Rolex GMT-Master II 16753 ‘Rootbeer’ | €14,500 ($15,000)
Another important part of the history of the Rolex GMT is a so-called ‘Rootbeer’ colorway, which combines a steel and gold case with brown and black tones on the dial and bezel. This is a configuration that has appeared in four-, five-, and six-digit references of the collection, but perhaps the most special is the 16753 as seen here. There is a subtlety to this execution thanks to the faded brown bezel matched to the sunray-finished rich brown dial. When paired with the gold accents in the bezel and crown, you’re left with an utterly beautiful example of the brand’s iconic GMT formula. This example, which comes to us from Bulang & Sons is a full kit, and shows enough age to provide a unique look. It’s the ultimate low-key gold watch.
Rolex GMT-Master II 16710 ‘Pepsi’ | $10,849
Finally, we can’t have a list of Rolex GMT-Master watches without representing the iconic BLRO or ‘Pepsi’ bezel colroway that put it on the map. The very first GMT-Master reference 6542 featured a bakelite blue and red bezel piece that helped pilots track multiple timezones when rotated (the independently adjustable hour hand hadn’t come along yet). This bezel has made an appearance in aluminum and ceramic in the intervening years, and still represents the cornerstone look that defines the collection. This example, available via Chrono24, features a nicely faded aluminum insert with an almost pink bottom half. The case and bracelet retain sharp lines, and with a production date of 2001, there is a solid end link that makes for a more modern wearing experience.
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
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