Shopping Time: 5 Highly Collectible Lange 1 Watches to Buy Right Now
We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday Shopping Time shares five standout timepieces with you.
In our history of the A. Lange & S?hne Lange 1 watch, we noted a few key features that make it such a stand-out of the modern watchmaking era, as well as the most iconic of German watches—perhaps ever. First, it’s important to know that A. Lange & S?hne was resurrected after the fall of the Berlin Wall, and by 1994 once defunct brand that the communists had shuttered released four incredible watches that remain absolute classics of horology: the Saxonia, the Arkade, the 1815 tourbillion ?Pour le Mérite” and, most famously, the Lange 1.
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We recently rounded up five amazing Langes for sale, but it occurred to us after publishing the history of the Lange 1 that this single model deserved its own round-up for our esteemed fellow collectors (meaning you, dear reader). But why all the hoopla over this watch in the first place, and why does it continue to woo collectors and draw out their wallets? Read the complete history of the Lange 1 to really get an answer, but here’s the skinny version.
No one had seen such a wonderfully deconstructed dial like that before. And while it looked somewhat willy-nilly, it also felt whole and harmonious (a quality we emphasized in great detail in our recent review of the Moser x Massena LAB Endeavor Chronograph Compax, should you want to learn more about what we call “horological wholeness”). The harmonious nature of the Lange 1 really stems from the golden ratio, which defines the rule of thirds, which graphic artists use to compose pleasing pictures, and which Lange used to compose the dial of the Lange 1 watch. In a nutshell, there’s a perfect equilateral triangle formed by the centers of the time dial, the sub-seconds dial and the big date aperture.
The second thing that will blow your mind is, of course, the movement. A. Lange & S?hne put the entire Swiss enterprise of high horology on notice when releasing these four watches in 1994, and by 1995 Lange was fitting the Lange 1 with a sapphire caseback—and thank goodness. What a thing to behold. The hand-engraved balance cock is famous now, the perfect striping and anglage, the robust plates, the gold chatons (fittings that hold rubies in place) screwed to the plates with perfectly blued screws. If you’ve never explored a Lange movement with a loupe, you really must rush out and do so.
The date complication was the first “big date” to feature two separate discs, which kind of blew the minds of those who understood the complexity in 1994, and it still blows minds today (though it’s imitated ad nauseam, often by the most elite Swiss brands, including the brand new Patek Philippe Cubitus).
We could go on, but we will let our complete history do that work and get you on to the amazing offerings currently out there right now on the market. Please note that while many complications have been deployed in the Lange 1 over the years, these five examples for sale offer the original’s basic configuration—the pure essence of the Lange 1, in other words. Let’s do this.
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A. Lange & S?hne Lange 1 101.022 | ￡23,000 ($30,000)
There is a simple beauty to the original Lange 1 with a yellow gold case and argentine dial that’s been preserved remarkably well by the German brand in the generations that have followed. This is a watch that exhibits a slow, thoughtful evolution, and when it does change, the original soul remains intact. The reference 101.022 is a perfect example of this evolution, showing the diversity of the design as a whole. The yellow gold 38.5 mm case boasts the iconic design language first put forth in 1994 with the relaunch of the brand, while the dial accepts blued hands, slightly altering the personality of the watch.
This reference hails from the early 2000’s and presents in wonderful condition. The watch, which is offered by A Collected Man, is listed as a full kit with papers dated to a 2001 production date. This captures the essence of the Lange 1 perfectly, and the blue hands push it over the top without losing a hint of class.
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A. Lange & S?hne Lange 1 25th Anniversary 191.066 | $51,000
In 2019, A. Lange & S?hne celebrated their 25th anniversary, and with it the anniversary of the Lange 1 (we’re nearing another such anniversary, with baited breath). In celebration of the big 25, Lange released a selection of ten limited edition Lange 1 references, among them was this 191.066. This reference represents an interesting take on the Lange 1 design for its unique treatment of the negative space between the sub dials, creating a contrast that we don’t normally see in the dial of this watch. The white base welcomes blue hands and detailing, which was a theme seen throughout the ten anniversary editions.
This reference of the Lange 1 uses a half-hunter style caseback that can be opened up to access a view of the movement. Being a Lange, that’s a view you’ll want to appreciate. The movement itself has an easter egg in the form of a “25” carved in the balance cock with a blue infill. Just 250 examples of this watch were produced, and this one comes to use from European Watch Company in like-new condition as a full kit.
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A. Lange & S?hne Lange 1 101.030 | $34,950
The Lange 1 has plenty of range, as we’ve seen, and the reference 101.030 pushes it well into informal territory, bordering on stealth. This white-gold case accepts a gray dial, and when paired with a black strap looks exceptionally clean and low-key. Lange does white metals with dark dials as well as anyone in the business, and it suits the design of the Lange 1 shockingly well. This configuration is not currently in production, making it all the more interesting as a case study in the versatility of the Lange 1.
This reference 101.030 is being offered by the 1916 Company, and appears to be in excellent overall condition, with only light signs of wear. This unique Lange 1 comes with its box and papers and is backed by a two year warranty from the seller. This is one of our favorite configurations of the Lange 1, and represents a rarely seen configuration that we’d love to see produced again.
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A. Lange & S?hne Lange 1 101.021 | $28,850
If you prefer to stick with the original vision of the Lange 1, it should come as no surprise that it holds up just as well today as it did in 1994. The Lange 1 reference 101.021 is just that, with a yellow gold case measuring 38.5mm with a silver dial set with yellow gold furniture to match the case. It’s all here, and this example, which dates to 2002, is remarkably preserved. As distinctive as this formula is, it also works on a variety of strap options available from the seller, which can push the personality into very different directions. You may not think of the Lange 1 as a “strap monster” (as the kids say), but it’s got surprising range.
This Lange 1 reference 101.021 comes to us from Analog/Shift, and is listed in outstanding condition with only light signs of wear. This watch is offered as a full kit, and represents an important transition period for the brand while holding onto the foundations put forth in 1994. There may be flashier examples of the Lange 1 out there, but this reference is a distillation of everything that made it great.
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A. Lange & S?hne Grand Lange 1 Lumen | $120,000
We’re closing out with a very special edition of the Lange 1 in its Grand sizing, and boasting the brand’s signature ‘Lumen’ dial treatment. It’s a little different than the examples listed above, and shows just how strong the base design works in a myriad of configurations. Lumen dials are semi-transparent, and incorporate luminescence within components that can be seen under the dial, creating a wonderful sense of depth and a “peak behind the curtain.” These dials are reserved for special occasions and editions, and the results are wholly unique.
This Grand Lange 1 Lumen reference 117.035 is being offered by Analog/Shift, and dates to the early 2010’s. The 41mm platinum case is listed in excellent condition, and comes as a full kit. This watch marks the brand’s initial foray into the Lumen dial project, and it shows. This was a phase where the brand was still finding its footing in offerings such as this, and as such this reference represents an important part of their history.
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Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
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