Shopping Time: 5 Breguet Watches That In-the-Know Collectors Will Covet
We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday Shopping Time shares five standout timepieces with you.
Just last year, our colleague Paige Reddinger wrote that Breguet was poised for a secondary market resurgence. We think Reddinger was spot on, and yet only the insiders of the collecting world seem to have caught on. We met a gentleman a couple weeks ago at WatchTime New York who said that pre-owned Breguet watches were the best kept secret out there. Hard to disagree, and his Breguet Classic was lovely.
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When it comes to subtle but brilliant details, few do it better than Breguet. This is a historic brand that’s honed their aesthetic sensibilities over generations, and like a fine wine, much of their work has only gotten better with age. And while we’ve brought you Cartiers, smaller Rolexes, dressy Patek Philippes, and even lovely Langes, it is really with this round-up of amazing Breguet timepieces that we enter into the realm of historical horology for the first time. That is, after all, what Breguet is all about.
As for pedigree, it would be hard to beat Breguet. Name another watchmaker who invented a numerical set that has been used by pretty much every other watchmaker, from Patek Philippe to Timex? Name another watchmaker who invented the tourbillon, the auto-winding mechanism, and the para-chute shock absorber. Abraham-Louis Breguet was, in a way, to the Enlightenment what Steve Jobs was to the Information Age.
Below are some of the most amazing Breguet watches on the market right now, from gorgeous regulators to complicated calendars, moon-phases, and more.
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Breguet Tradition | $16,850
Kicking things off with an absolute favorite from Breguet that serves as a showcase of the brand’s mechanical creativity. First introduced in 2005, the Tradition draws upon a concept first put forth by Abraham-Louis Breguet himself in the late 18th century, which places much of the mechanics of the movement on the dial side, accompanied by a sub-dial giving the time. The result feels a bit like seeing a magic trick deconstructed before your eyes. You can follow the route through which energy is released from the mainspring, all the way to where it is regulated and doled out by the escapement.
The Tradition is a captivating watch, and this Reference 7027 is rendered in yellow gold, providing a tone-on-tone aesthetic within the dial itself. The contrast comes from the small dial at 12 o’clock displaying the hours and minutes. The case measures 37mm, which should give you an appreciation for the scale of the components represented in the dial, from the gear train, to the screws holding everything together. It’s a bit steam-punkish, despite being solid gold. This example comes from Analog:Shift and is listed in outstanding overall condition.
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Breguet Vintage Classique | $22,500
The Breguet Classique is a distilled expression of the brand’s values in design and execution. From the silver hand-turned dials that are individually numbered, to the iconic hands that feature apertures near their tips. Throw in some Roman numerals and a delicately carved case and you’ve got the full formula. That’s exactly what we find with this vintage Classique reference, which may feel simple at a glance, but has an enormous captivating power the closer you look. The center portion of the dial is rich yet subtle, underscoring the reserved nature of the watch as a whole.
This dial is set within a 32mm rose gold case that itself showcases a beautifully finished design. Inside is a hand-wound movement keeping a remarkably slim profile under the steeply domed crystal. This is essential formal wear, and where Breguet truly comes into its own. This is the kind of execution that’s been honed in time to show restraint, while rewarding inspection. This example is being sold by The Keystone, and the seller notes the condition as excellent, with no notable signs of wear.
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Breguet Classique Day Date Moonphase | $19,950
Breguet is adept at cloaking complexity in beautiful simplicity, and this skill is what makes their delicate formal watches with complications so special. The Classique is a perfect example of how the brand does this, in particular this Day Date Moonphase, which treats each constituent piece of information with an enormous amount of respect. From the shape of the day and date apertures, to their placement to achieve balance within the dial, every detail has been approached with care.
We love the hand-turned dial texture that provides an intricate backdrop to the dial design without ever overpowering the functions themselves. You might not realize it immediately, but this is the true wonder that holds this design together. The 36mm case features a coin edge finish along its wall, and is constructed from 18k yellow gold, perfectly complimenting the blue details found elsewhere within the dial. This watch is listed by Analog:Shift, and is noted as being in great overall condition.
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Breguet Cushion ref. 4070BB | $14,500
As traditional as Breguet is known to be, the brand can also bend the rules to express a range of ideas. Such is the case with this reference 4070BB. The large pillow shaped 18k white gold cushion case measures a mere 30x30mm, and frames a classically finished guilloche dial, as you’d expect. This is not a case shape often seen in the Breguet catalog, and it brings an exciting drama to the classic dial without being overbearing on the design as a whole. The case remains delicate with a similar coin edge bezel to other Classique cases of the era (and of today).
This reference 4070BB dates to 1978, and comes to us from Craft + Tailored. The exceptionally thin case is well preserved and houses the brand’s hand wound caliber 839. As smaller cases continue to find favor in the modern trend landscape, this Breguet remains a perfect example of making a big statement in a small package.
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Breguet 1747BA Regulator | $14,750
In 1997, Breguet celebrated the 250th anniversary of their founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet’s birth. The brand bearing his name released a special limited edition regulator watch to mark the occasion. Limited to just 300 pieces, this reference 1747BA showcased the subtle finishing mastery by the brand, with a guilloche dial, including a basket weave at the center of the hour sub-dial. Being a regulator, the watch uses a single hand at the center to track the minutes, while the hours are broken into a sub dial placed at 6 o’clock. Each ten minute segment is marked, while a date is included at the 3 o’clock position.
This is an unusual design but a truly fitting choice given the historic relevance of the layout, and it’s all fit beautifully within a 36mm yellow gold case. The small details observed in the finishing both within the dial and on the case are a tour de force, once again forcing a closer look to fully appreciate. This example is from European Watch Company and is listed as a full kit in like new condition. This is a neo-vintage example of the brand honoring their rich heritage, and it also happens to be quite unique in its approach.
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Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
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