Schiaparelli RTW Spring 2024
A Schiaparelli sneaker?
The house known for its Salvador Dalí lobster dress may seem an unlikely entrant to the streetwear category. But Schiaparelli is expanding, with the launch of a ready-to-wear collection last season and a burgeoning accessories line, including the new Chuck Taylor-style canvas sneakers with gold toes that made their runway debut at its spring show.
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Worn with scrunched socks, they were paired with everything from a powder blue suit with a draped sarong skirt, to a cream halterneck dress that looked as if the contents of a woman’s handbag had been emptied onto it. (The embroidery team this season added cigarettes and spills of red nail varnish to their repertoire.)
Creative director Daniel Roseberry said it was about marrying his American penchant for sportswear with the rigor of Parisian chic, following the opening of new stores in London and Los Angeles this year.
“It just felt really effortless,” he said, standing in the pink-lit garden of the Italian embassy in Paris after the show. “I enjoyed bringing an ode to youth, in a way.”
Unlike his couture creations, which harness models into rigid constructions, this collection was about ease of movement. The sarong skirt was a recurring motif, as was the lobster, which was strategically placed over the crotch of a draped cream jersey skirt.
Knitwear was embellished with skeleton embroideries, anatomical lucky charms and measuring tape trim, while a raw denim take on Roseberry’s daily uniform of Carhartt work pants was zhuzhed up with a sandy tweed jacket with gilded trim.
“I really just wanted it to feel like we exhaled, like there was an ease to it and a kind of sense of chill, which is really nice, because the couture is so corseted, so snatched, so sculptural,” Roseberry explained. “There was not a corset in sight, so that was important to me.”
For all the youth-friendly options, it was the dressier outfits that really sizzled, with special mentions for the opening and closing looks.
Shalom Harlow went pantless in a strong-shouldered black jacket and a “Pulp Fiction” wig, while Kendall Jenner, her hair teased into a major bouffant, was molded into a bustier dress covered in red fake nails.
Sitting in the audience, her sister Kylie showed off her impossibly small waist in a sparkly siren gown with a keyhole cutout at the chest. While fellow guest Rosalía opted for comfort with the gold-embroidered bolero jacket from look three, “Barbie” star Hari Nef wasn’t ready to relinquish her corset just yet.
“I like to feel held by my garments — held as tightly as possible,” she said as she arrived at the show. “I feel very safe in Daniel’s clothes, and strong.”
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Launch Gallery: Schiaparelli RTW Spring 2024
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