Review: Plentiful comfort food, cocktails and good value at new restaurant in North Naples

Plenty of readers say they want to support independent restaurants.

Yet a quick drive around North Naples reveals full parking lots at corporate-owned spots, including Seasons 52 and Capital Grille.

Add J. Alexander’s to that list. Since opening Jan. 10 in what was previously Buca di Beppo, it's always seemed quite busy.

I suspect several reasons why it’s drawing crowds, among them:

• No. 1: It’s a crowd-pleaser serving uncomplicated American fare in a pretty setting.

• No. 2: It punches above its weight with food that’s reasonably priced for what you get.

• No. 3: A cavernous space with so many tables usually means you’re likely not to be rushed through a meal because there’s little pressure (at least off-season) to turn tables quickly.

Appealing to hearty appetites

Channeling Seinfeld’s rent-a-car reservations episode, my soon-to-be ex-husband often says, “You always take the leftovers, but you never eat the leftovers.”

Fortunately, he eats them because although I abhor food waste, I am often guilty of it.

J. Alexander’s will pique your interest if you're a lover of leftovers (they exist) because portions on five of the six dishes we tried are quite substantial. While appetizers are designed for sharing, having at least two more people at your table could be quite helpful.

If you’re not a fan of leftovers or decide to dine solo at the stunning bar, there's quite a bit on the menu for you too, and we'll suggest what to order.

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What we ate, sipped

The cocktail that reeled me in is the ‘21’ Manhattan listed in the handcrafted martinis section and I believe named in honor of my former employer, right down to the inverted apostrophes.

Priced $15, it looks like a million bucks because it’s accompanied by a tiny carafe filled with the shaker’s remaining sips immersed in an ice-filled snifter. My companion du jour’s pretty “Midnight Margarita” for $14 is no slouch either: Refreshing, big, balanced and rimmed with pink Himalayan salt.

Fire-grilled artichokes with a lemony-salty dressing are served as halves and require four people to share the fleshy leaves. Don’t worry about eating them with your fingers because they also come with nicely folded towels to blot your fingers, though after that fantastic Manhattan presentation, it wouldn’t surprise me to see finger bowls in the future.

The meal’s homerun was the “Avocado Bomb,” a bit of a misnomer because ample dices of Hawaiian tuna also play a starring role atop the sweet wonton crisps. It would suffice as an entrée for solo diners and you’d do best to finish each bite while there.

When I interviewed Josh Kern, CEO of SPB Hospitality, the restaurant group behind J. Alexander’s, I asked him about his favorite dish.

His reply?

“Brasserie Chicken” so we ordered that too. Chicken can be the trickiest protein for kitchen restaurants because the time between cooking the bird and delivering the dish to the table is important to maintain its juiciness.

After the first bite, I couldn’t help but wonder how Kern stays trim given the enormity of these crispy Panko-crusted paillards plus a substantial serving of smashed red potatoes. A handful of broccoli on the plate can’t possibly be the answer.

It was quite good, maintaining its crunch as we worked our way through it. The bird is drizzled with sauce, but I liked the bites without it better.

Grilled salmon in a more normal yet still oversized portion was good, too. It’s served with a fluffy and (thankfully) light orzo-wild rice side, which I would happily order again.

Dessert is also big and we shared two. The Key Lime pie has a cheesecake-y texture and subtly spiced crumble crust. A better choice? The hefty slab of carrot cake with warm icing melted over each rich bite.

Is it me?

On May 23, before noon and without a reservation, I arrived alone, and the young hostess led me to the worst table in one of several dining sections, right next to a bussing and payment station.

Without making a stink but seeing so many open tables in the section, I asked to be moved and was accommodated.

A moment later, the same exact thing happened to another woman, alone and around my age, who arrived just after I did.

I watched and listened as she also said no thanks.

At 1 p.m., with fewer seating options because our section was pretty full, there was finally a taker for when two senior gents sat down.

Why do I mention it? As someone whose tasks have included assigning tables, a key priority is ensuring that a server taking care of a section isn't overloaded with patrons arriving at the same time. Guests don't often understand that.

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While I could empathize with the hostess's challenge, it doesn't mean I like sitting at the worst table when so many empty ones around the restaurant were not yet unoccupied.

In season, ya gotta suck it up. Off-season, negotiate by asking nicely.

J. Alexander's: What to know

Address: 8860 Tamiami Trail N., Naples

Call: 239-778-9095

Website: jalexanders.com

Hours: Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; until 9 p.m. on Sunday.

Prices: Starters range from $14 to $24. Handhelds are $17 to $25. Main courses range from $25 to $48. The extensive wine list boasts interesting selections, with 19 bottles under $50. Wines by the glass are a 7-ounce pour. The corkage fee is $25.

Also good for: Groups, business lunches, bar dining

Etc.: Reservations are suggested and bookable through Resy. Ample parking. Despite a large group in our section, conversation was fairly easy. Dress code: No "tank tops, overly provocative clothing, including offensive or profane language or images on clothing" per the website.

This article came from staff writer Diana Biederman. Connect via [email protected]. Our restaurant critics have written under the Jean Le Boeuf brand for more than 40 years. JLB dines anonymously (she tries to) and always pays for her meals.

This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: Comfort food, cocktails and solid value at new North Naples restaurant