Review: At 2 iconic Collier County waterfront restaurants, who does it better?
What makes a restaurant iconic?
Like this column, it's subjective.
When a restaurant truly evokes a sense of place, making it a destination rather than simply dinner out, that's iconic.
For JLB, it's also about authentic experiences with a slight nod to sentimentality. Where did I leave feeling happy and satisfied?
This week's review compares two ways to make memories in south Collier County: The Island Gypsy and The Snook Inn.
What do they have in common?
When friends from northern climates visit, both are must-gos for uniquely Southwest Florida vibes and grub that's better than it has to be given the waterfront views.
During season, there's always a line to dine because both are extremely popular.
Not so nice: I’ve previously dreaded using the loos at both.
But if you're driving 30-plus minutes and must choose just one, JLB is here to help.
We’ll highlight each's merits and designate a winner by category, encompassing food, cocktails, service, restrooms, noise, parking and shops.
For this apples-to-apples review, I ordered a grilled grouper sandwich, one cocktail and one dessert at both spots. Each check was exactly $50 before tip and tax.
Island Gypsy's food
Ten years ago, I described Island Gypsy as the Snook without a salad bar. Back then, my usual order was a grilled mahi sandwich. After a few visits, I learned to order it minus the bun because even if toasted, it became soggy too quickly, making it a messy undertaking.
The grouper served during my recent visit was from Mexico said Nick Alajajian, who co-manages the spot founded by his dad, local legendary restaurateur Jerry Alajajian.
The menu touts that it’s served on a Kaiser roll. When delivered, the bun was toasted, but it wasn’t a Kaiser, which (usually) better maintains its sturdiness.
Two bites in and the bun was soggy, but that’s partially my fault because I squeezed lemon on the fish and added forkfuls of the cole slaw side to make it more interesting.
The sandwich is served with fries, but I ordered the new-to-me housemade chips without incurring an upcharge. When dipping the first chip into what's listed as tartar sauce, the plastic ramekin was filled with onion dip, which is better for chips. That small detail made it seem like the chef was paying attention. Slightly too salty, they maintained their crunch throughout lunch and weren’t greasy.
Would I get it again? No, because I prefer the terrific “Lobster N’euben” and fries.
For dessert, it wouldn’t be a proper visit without a hunk-sized slice of the famous carrot cake. It’s not made in-house, but it’s so good, who cares?
Pro tips: It would be a sin not to order a side of onion rings to share with pals. Dining alone? The portion is enormous, and the rings don’t reheat well. I’ve also tried IG’s supper specials, which exceeded expectations during numerous previous visits. My neighbors gather there most Friday evenings for IG’s $25 prime rib special.
Snook Inn's food
My last visit to the Snook was on Dec. 18, 2021, sipping a beer on the dock to watch Marco’s boat parade. We patiently waited for a table in the dining room and ordered pricey specials that surprisingly tasted much better than I expected on one of the Snook's busiest nights.
This go-round at the bar, I was joined by a local restaurant chef-owner who once lived on Marco. Snook Inn was the setting of his first date with his wife.
Going Dutch, my chef companion du jour ordered the beautifully arranged and plentiful calamari starter, setting the stage for disappointment when other dishes arrived.
Tiny cubes of ahi tuna topping his “nachos” were fresh, though he thought there was too little fish. The crisps (sweet wonton chips, not tortilla) were anything but. Was it the humidity? He thought they were past their prime.
Though Snook’s Gulf grouper tasted better, the presentation lacked pizzazz. The accompanying chips seemed stale, and the bun, listed as brioche, was flavorless. A soaking wet lettuce leaf placed atop one half of the bun made it soggy faster, not helping matters.
The sandwich was $2 more expensive than the Gypsy’s, perhaps because the price includes one trip to the lackluster salad bar, with iceberg lettuce, cherry tomatoes and broccoli among the offerings.
Regular readers know how much I love salad. Here, the only thing I found appealing was the pickle barrel.
The best thing we ate was Key Lime pie, which we were told is made on-site. My chef companion commented that it was plated and tasted like it was made with love. The citrus-bursting (albeit small) slice with a berry drizzle went down like silk.
Winner
It's a tie.
Potent potables
JLB believes it’s de rigueur (that’s French for mandatory) to order fun icy cocktails or mocktails at both.
Regarding the Bourbony "Tipsy Gypsy Smash" vs. Snook's frosty cherry-topped rum runner, Snook earns a slight edge for its pretty presentation.
Service
Both offer prompt and courteous service, but the Gyspy's staff is more convivial, while Snook feels a tad more transactional even though its hostesses make a terrific first impression.
Noise
Both are loud, but I strained to converse with my Snook companion, hearing only bits and pieces of what he said even though it wasn't crowded and he was sitting right next to me. Hours later, my larynx still ached from trying to talk over the music.
Winner: Island Gypsy
Parking
If going to either before November, parking is easy-peasy during lunch, either with wheels or the locals' way via golf cart, boat or jet ski.
Non-wheel alternatives may be the preferred transport because Snook’s parking lot is bananas small for the large crowds it attracts. If the Marco Olympics existed, "Snook Parking" could be a competitive sport.
The adjacent side lot at the Gypsy is a preferred option. There’s also a dedicated patch for motorcycles and golf carts.
Winner: You when finding a spot.
Restroom facilities
Winner: Snook Inn's renovation made their loos 100% better.
Souvenir shops
Another tie: Both restaurants have separate boutiques for branded merchandise and casual clothing.
Snook's appealing vintage candy display is charming but the Gypsy surprised me with some of the prettiest sundresses around, including a few labels you're likelier to see at Nordstrom.
What to know
Island Gypsy
292 Capri Blvd., Naples; 239-394-1111; theislandgypsy.com
Hours: Daily from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Etc.: All seating is covered by a roof or umbrella, but there is no indoor seating. Fans spray a cooling water mist. Fair warning: Mosquitoes are prevalent on Capri, especially at dusk. Prepare accordingly.
New restaurant on Marco Island: Custom-made lobster roll shop opens
Snook Inn
1215 Bald Eagle Drive, Marco Island; 239-394-3313; snookinn.com
Hours: Daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Etc.: No reservations. Parties are seated when everyone arrives. Indoor seating is an option.
This article came from staff writer Diana Biederman. Connect via [email protected]. Our restaurant critics have written under the Jean Le Boeuf brand for more than 40 years. JLB dines anonymously (she tries to) and always pays for her meals.
This article originally appeared on Naples Daily News: Review: Who does it better in the battle of iconic waterfront dining?
