Relief for skiers as resorts see bumper snowfall – and there’s more on the way

Whistler
From the Canadian Rockies to the French Alps, here's where you can ski this season – and when - Tourism Whistler/Ben Girardi

Winter has begun in the world’s ski resorts as snow storms blanket the slopes and boost excitement for those planning their ski holidays.

American ski resorts have already swung into action as Europe’s big names announce plans to bring forward opening dates, following promising early snowfall.

Heavy winter storms in the Rockies at the end of October have allowed North American resorts, including Breckenridge and Vail in Colorado, as well as Lake Louise in Canada, to open for the 23/24 ski season already. While temperatures have warmed up since, California’s season is also underway, with Mammoth Mountain opening and more snow forecast.

In Europe, after a warm first half of the autumn, the Alps have had a sensational start to November with cold weather and huge snowfalls. Some resorts have reported a metre of fresh snow on higher terrain over the past five days, with as much forecast again in the coming week. Although still too early to tell, a great start to the winter season is looking ever more promising and the accompanying low temperatures have allowed snowmakers to begin to build bases.

Big names including Cervinia, Kitzbühel, Schladming, Saas-Fee, Verbier and Zermatt already have ski runs open, while others including Madonna di Campiglio, Tignes and Val Thorens have announced they’ll open early.

Below we outline the opening dates for the world’s leading ski resorts and how the snow is shaping up ahead of the season.

Skip ahead to your favourite destination:

America

Aspen: November 23

Big Sky: November 23

Breckenridge: November 10

Heavenly: November 17

Jackson Hole: November 24

Keystone: November 1

Killington: November 4

Mammoth: November 10

Palisades: November 22

Park City: November 17

Vail: November 10

How’s the snow looking?

The strong El Ni?o weather system looms over North American skiing this winter, essentially meaning forecasts will likely be warmer in the west, cooler in the east, and average in the middle. It’s too early yet to tell if predictions will be correct, but there have been promising early falls in the Rockies and (thanks to snowmaking) ski areas are now open from coast to coast.

Find more of the best resorts in America in our guide.

Whistler
Canada’s Rockies have had full winter conditions for weeks now - Tourism Whistler/Guy Fattal

Canada

Banff: November 3

Big White: November 23

Jasper: November 16

Kicking Horse: December 9

Lake Louise: November 3

Revelstoke: December 2

Sun Peaks: November 18

Tremblant: November 23

Whistler Blackcomb: November 23

How’s the snow looking?

Canada’s Rockies have had full winter conditions for weeks now and there was a nice 23cm fall for opening day at Banff and Lake Louise.

Find more of the best resorts in Canada in our guide.

Les Gets Ski Resort
Most resorts in France, including Les Gets, will open up in December

France

Alpe d’Huez: December 2

Avoriaz: December 15

Chamonix: December 2

Courchevel: December 2

Flaine: December 9

La Plagne: December 16

La Rosière: December 16

Les Arcs: December 16

Les Deux Alpes: December 2

Les Gets: December 15

Les Menuires: December 9

Megeve: December 16

Méribel: December 2

Morzine: December 15

Serre Chevalier: December 9

Tignes: November 18

Val d’Isere: December 2

Val Thorens: November 18

How’s the snow looking?

At the time of writing, France stands out among the big Alpine nations in having no ski slopes open yet. However, snow-sure Tignes and Val Thorens have announced they will both open a week earlier than planned, on November 18, after more than a metre of snowfall this week. Tignes will have 1,300m of vertical available for skiing and Val Thorens will be the first area to swing into action in Les 3 Vallées.

Find more of the best resorts in France in our guide.

Ski resort of Sölden, Austria
S?lden in Austria opens a month earlier than many other resorts in the county - Reuters

Austria

Ischgl: November 23

Kitzbühel: November 11

Lech: December 1

Mayrhofen: December 2

Obergurgl: November 16

Obertauern: November 24

S?lden: October 18

Saalbach: December 1

St Anton: December 1

Zell am See: December 1

How’s the snow looking?

November has started well with up to 60cm of snowfall on glaciers in Austria. There are more areas already open here than anywhere else in Europe and with 60km of runs open already, S?lden has the most open terrain in the world right now. Big hitters Kitzbühel and Schladming are open already too.

Find more of the best resorts in Austria in our guide.

Zermatt, Switzerland
Nine ski areas in Switzerland are already open, including Zermatt - Pascal Gertschen

Switzerland

Andermatt: November 18

Crans-Montana: December 12

Grindelwald: November 11

Gstaad: November 8

Laax: December 2

Saas-Fee: July 15

St Moritz: October 28

Verbier: November 10

Wengen: November 11

Zermatt: Year Round

How’s the snow looking?

Swiss ski areas have seen some big early snowfalls, so much so Gstaad’s Glacier 3000 area delayed opening a few days until snow showers cleared. Nine areas already open include Davos, Verbier and Zermatt.

Find more of the best resorts in Switzerland in our guide.

Courmayeur, Italy
The slopes of Courmayeur in Italy open on November 25 - Lorenzo Belfrond

Italy

Bormio: December 1

Cervinia: Year Round

Cortina d’Ampezzo: November 25

Courmayeur: November 25

La Thuile: December 16

Livigno: December 2

Madonna di Campiglio: November 18

Passo Tonale: November 18

Sauze d’Oulx: December7

Val Gardena: December 5

How’s the snow looking?

Italy’s ski areas have areported some big snowfalls in the last week, with Livigno reporting a 50cm, followed by a further 45cm accumulation. Madonna di Campiglio has brought its opening day forward a week.

Find more of the best resorts in Italy in our guide.

Jasna ski resort
One of the earliest places to start skiing in Eastern Europe this season is Jasna in Slovakia

Eastern Europe, Spain and Andorra

Bansko (Bulgaria): December 2

Borovets (Bulgaria): December 2

Baqueira Beret (Spain): November 25

Jasna (Slovakia): November 25

Pas de la Casa (Andorra): December 1

Sierra Nevada (Spain): November 25

Soldeu (Andorra): December 1

How’s the snow looking?

There have been promising early snowfalls across the Iberian peninsula, including on the slopes of Europe’s most southerly area, Sierra Nevada above the Mediterranean, and at Portugal’s only ski area. Eastern Europe’s higher slopes have turned white too, but most won’t open for another three to five weeks.

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Where to stay for an early-season snowy escape

If you fancy heading for the hills and being among the first to sample this winter’s snow it’s not too late to book a last-minute escape.

America: Vail

Opened in 1962 as one of Vail’s first luxury hotels, the Lodge in Vail Village is a few strides from the gondola. As well as an outdoor pool and hot tubs it has a spa area with saunas, steam rooms, treatment rooms and relaxation rooms. Rooms from £336 per night in December, with Booking.com.

See more of the best ski hotels in Vail in our guide.

Canada: Banff

On Banff Avenue, the Banff Caribou Lodge has individually designed wood-clad rooms, including six spectacular loft suites, and a reputation for good service. Rooms from £91 per night in December, with Booking.com.

See more of the best ski hotels in Banff in our guide.

France: Val Thorens

Chalet Ibex is located in a quiet part of Val Thorens in the Chalet des Neiges residence, one of the highest properties in the French Alps. Positioned close to the slopes the chalet sleeps 10. Guests have access to an indoor heated swimming pool, sauna, hammam and jacuzzi in the main residence. SkiLine offers a week’s stay from £850, including chalet catering, flights and transfers, departing December 9 2023.

See more of the best ski hotels in Val Thorens in our guide.

Chalet des Neiges, Val Thorens
The Chalet des Neiges residence in Val Thorens is one of the highest properties in the French Alps

Austria: Kitzbühel

​​Right in the centre of Kitzbühel, Hotel Resch is a friendly, family-run three-star B&B with just 50 beds that offers great value for money. It is a short walk from the lifts and slopes. Heidi offers a week’s stay from £945, including B&B, flights and transfers, departing December 2 2023.

See more of the best ski hotels in Kitzbühel in our guide.

Italy: Cervinia

The five-star Valtur Cervinia Cristallo opened on the slopes in Cervinia last winter, it has a magnificent pool, spa, restaurants and other hotel facilities including free childcare. Ski Solutions offers a week’s stay from £1,345, including B&B, flights and transfers, departing December 9 2023.

See more of the best ski hotels in Cervinia in our guide.

Switzerland: Verbier

An independent three-star, Hotel Mirabeau has a cosy Nordic feel and warm welcome. It’s also in an ideal location, two minutes’ walk from the Médran gondola in Verbier town. IgluSki offers a week’s stay from £565, including B&B, departing December 1 2023, excluding travel.

See more of the best ski hotels in Verbier in our guide.

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