Are you putting Parmigiano Reggiano in your espresso martinis? You should be
Abbondanza — Italian for "abundance" — is a bi-monthly column from writer Michael La Corte in which the author shares his tips for making traditional Italian-American recipes even better.
For anyone who's ever spent more than two seconds with me, it should go without saying that cheese is my favorite food.
Sometimes, people will snicker at that, as if cheese in and of itself isn't substantial or legitimate enough to constitute as a favorite food, but they are mistaken. No matter if enjoying a sharp cheddar or goat, a buttery Manchego, a pungent bleu or an unctuous Gruyere, I'm in my glory when I'm eating cheese, incorporating it into recipes of all shapes and sizes or just mindlessly munching on craggly, irregular chunks.
To put it simply, it's a perfect ingredient, whether it's lightly dusting the top of a warming soup, encasing a chicken cutlet or being devoured with roasted peppers, arugula and a heaping amount of balsamic vinegar.
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What often stands out for me — both in price, as well as flavor and texture — is the crumbly, cherished Parmigiano Reggiano (which, no, isn't the same as Parmesan and please don't pronounce it parm-eh-sahn). As reported in 2021, "When discussing Parmigiano-Reggiano, we also must note "parmesan," which is actually quite different. While also totally delicious, it's not as regulated, prestigious or expensive as Parmigiano-Reggiano."
Parmesan Reggiano cheese on cutting board (Getty Images/MEDITERRANEAN)
Something I've always been fascinated by, though, is the use of cheese in desserts, drinks and other "unusual" applications. In order to further explore this realm, I spoke with Chef Michele Casadei Massari, US Brand Ambassador for Parmigano Reggiano, who may be the foremost resource for unique, specialty applications for Parmigiano. He walked me through his adoration for the flavor profile, his desire to produce interesting recipes for Parmigiano usage, how to properly honor the special ingredient and what he's dreaming up next.
The following interview has been lightly edited for clarity and length.
Cheese is probably my absolute favorite food and Parmigiano Reggiano might be my favorite iteration, so I'm very excited about this discussion! Cheesecake with Parmigiano Reggiano is such an amazing idea. How did you conceive of that dessert?
I am endlessly inspired by Parmigiano Reggiano and am always seeking unexpected ways to showcase it through my cooking: I wanted to explore Parmigiano Reggiano's savory and nutty profile in a dessert. To make this recipe, I combine a traditional cheesecake base with different ages of grated Parmigiano Reggiano — the cheese adds a unique depth of flavor and a rich, creamy texture to the dessert.
Parmigiano Reggiano Cheese (Getty Images/Buena Vista Images)
Generally, the notion of cheese is so completely savory, sans mascarpone, ricotta and cream cheese. How does incorporating Parmigiano Reggiano into a cheesecake base subvert that?
Incorporating Parmigiano Reggiano into a cheesecake brings a delightful twist to the conventional sweet cheesecake. Parmigiano Reggiano's nuttiness and umami flavors effortlessly balance sweet and savory, resulting in a unique and intriguing flavor experience; it adds a rich complexity and depth to the dessert.
"I am endlessly inspired by Parmigiano Reggiano and am always seeking unexpected ways to showcase it through my cooking"
The idea of Parmigiano Reggiano in desserts and beverages is an odd one; it's exciting to me, but I'm sure for others, it might seem unappetizing. What led you to explore the realm of using parm. in unconventional ways?
The exploration of using Parmigiano Reggiano in unconventional ways stems from my passion for pushing culinary boundaries. I constantly seek to create unexpected and exciting experiences for myself and my guests. While it may seem unconventional to some, experimenting with Parmigiano Reggiano in desserts and beverages allows me to spotlight the versatility of this incredible cheese and challenge preconceived notions about its usage.
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One of my favorite things about Parmigiano Reggiano is the craggly, salty, crunchy bits; when making a smooth puree, does that lacking textural aspect affect the overall product? Or is the flavor so concentrated and robust that that's not even noticed?
When creating a smooth puree with Parmigiano Reggiano, the textural aspect certainly differs from the craggy, crunchy bits we associate with the cheese. However, the concentrated, robust flavor of the puree compensates for the lack of texture. The puree can be used as a base or sauce, adding a rich and intense Parmigiano Reggiano flavor while allowing other ingredients to provide textural elements.
Parmigiano Reggiano Espresso Martini (Photo by Noah Fecks)
When I first heard of the idea of Parmigiano Reggiano espresso martinis, I was amazed. I love the combination! How is Parmigiano Reggiano added to that drink to ensure a smooth, rich cocktail?
Parmigiano Reggiano Espresso Martinis are a spectacular marriage indeed! Parmigiano Reggiano is infused into the vodka and added as a garnish, giving rise to a smooth and rich cocktail. The cheese imparts its distinct flavor into the cocktail, enhancing the overall taste experience and elevating the coffee and caffeine tango. Straining the cocktail after infusing and then garnishing ensures a smooth texture, allowing the flavors to shine.
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In culinary school, we made a parm stock and it was one of the best smelling and tasting things I've ever had. I've also had super-smooth parm espumas on restaurant dishes that were amazing. Beyond the martini and cheesecake, what are some of your favorite ways to work with Parmigiano Reggiano beyond the customary?
Beyond the customary uses of Parmigiano Reggiano, there are many exciting ways to work with this unique cheese. Some of my favorites include creating Parmigiano Reggiano crisps, incorporating it into savory bread or pastry dough; making Parmigiano Reggiano-infused oils or vinaigrettes; and even using it as a crust or topping for roasted vegetables.
Additionally, you can take the Parmigiano Reggiano experience to a new level by simmering the rind in a curry. The rind will soften during cooking, releasing its rich, nutty flavors. The possibilities are endless and I'm always thrilled to discover new ways to showcase the versatility of Parmigiano Reggiano and engage with other cuisines.
Chef Michele Casadei Massari's Clam Chowder with Parmigiano Reggiano (Photo courtesy of Riccardo Pizza)From a savory perspective, I love your takes on clam chowder and chapati! Adding Parmigiano Reggiano rinds to chowder broth sounds amazing. What other ideas do you have for using parm? What else might we see from you in the future?
Parmigiano Reggiano offers infinite possibilities. In addition to the chowder and chapati ideas, you can use Parmigiano Reggiano rinds in broths, stocks, dashi, ramen or soba to enhance their flavors. You could also use grated Parmigiano Reggiano as a finishing touch on grilled meats or vegetables, incorporating it into risotto or a frittata or even create Parmigiano Reggiano-infused butter, cream sauces, hummus, tahini or even add it to labneh cheese!
As for the future, I'm always driven to create innovative dishes that highlight exceptional ingredients and Parmigiano Reggiano will continue to inspire my culinary explorations. I am particularly intrigued by Parmigiano Reggiano's potential in the cocktail world — I currently have gin on my mind. I'll keep you posted, I promise!
"I am particularly intrigued by Parmigiano Reggiano's potential in the cocktail world — I currently have gin on my mind. I'll keep you posted, I promise!"
I love the tahini and labneh ideas! Do you consider yourself a drinks and desserts specialist? Or did the cheesecake and martini recipes strictly come about due to your desire to use Parmigiano Reggiano in novel ways?
While I thoroughly enjoy crafting drinks and desserts, the development of the Parmigiano Reggiano-infused cheesecake and martini recipes was driven by my desire to showcase the cheese's extraordinary qualities: captivating aroma profile, nutritional benefits, the aging process, the diverse milk used in its production . . . the list goes on!
Parmigiano Reggiano's biodiversity deserves more recognition and exploration and I'm determined to shed light on its potential in ways that have yet to be fully realized. However, it's important to note that my culinary expertise goes beyond drinks and desserts: I enthusiastically delve into various flavors, techniques and culinary concepts that span the savory and sweet domains.
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