Picture perfect: film maker Sam Taylor-Johnson's photogenic Mexican retreat
Standing in the security line at LAX, a sudden wave of anxiety washed over me. Wait! What’s going on? Where are we going? I hadn’t had time to process the fact that we only finished our film, A Million Little Pieces, based on James Frey’s infamous book, the night before.
In less than a year, my husband Aaron and I had written and produced the movie, with me behind the camera, and Aaron in front. It was shot in 20 days, on no sleep and pure adrenaline. Early that morning Aaron’s mum, Sarah – known to the children as Nana – had arrived to look after our two daughters, to enable us take a four-day break to replenish our souls, minds and bodies. Total madness.
We arrived at Hotel Esencia in Tulum, Mexico, narrowly missing a cyclone; it had been raining for three days straight. Everyone was keen to declare the cyclone was on its way to America and all was good here. Mexico had won its opening match in the World Cup and the sun would be out tomorrow.
But I didn’t mind the grey skies and winds. It meant we could just stay in joggers in our room overlooking the ocean. And take a minute to feel the weather, hear the waves, sleep and slowly return to ourselves.
The hotel is right on the beach of the Mayan Riviera, which stretches out forever. And then there is the ocean, that typical, crystal-blue Caribbean sea – which had an influx of seaweed because of the winds that had greeted us.
We had arrived the day after Kevin Wendle, the owner of Hotel Esencia, and his partner, Sebastián Uribe, got married there. As we checked in, a lot of people were checking out, looking like they had just had the time of their lives. And a few people were staying to recover from the time of their lives too.
But the most noticeable breakfast guests were the large strutting peacocks. Despite the proprietorial air when they walk, they made for a fantastic scene of decadence and Instagram imagery around the pool.
On day two, we visited the spa, with its five-star treatments (many use local ingredients such as cacao or copal, a local tree resin) and excellent therapists. We both chose massages which promptly knocked us out. Perfect start…
At dinner, there was some excitement as we were told turtles were laying their eggs on the beach. No phones were allowed, we had to be silent, to stand a safe distance and watch. She laid 123 eggs and slowly sauntered back into the ocean as the local marine biologist ensured the eggs were safe.
The food is not your usual holiday menu, for it has Peking Duck and bolognese dumplings: Aaron had both twice in the short time we were there. It does have other, more beside-the-sea choices – lobster, crab and catch of the day – as well as an extensive list of salads and meat, but vegans and vegetarians are well catered for too.
Escencia is a beautiful, well-run, relaxing hotel, sitting on a 50-acre estate that once – fittingly – belonged to an Italian duchess. This is where you come to escape, relax and rejuvenate next to the turquoise ocean, under sunny skies. And after four days, we were ready to get on the road with our small movie, and hopefully make it big.
Staying at Hotel Esencia costs from £440 per night, room only. British Airways flies direct from Gatwick to Cancún from £596.
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