Paco Rabanne RTW Spring 2019

The direction was unexpected, but in a good way, with Julien Dossena filtering the house’s key ingredient — metal mesh — through a traveling, ethnic story line.

The mood was the Seventies Paco Rabanne girl, but glamorized, on her way to some psychedelic destination.

Dossena’s signature metallic colors, including a weird iridescent green, worked beautifully on the almost kitschy mixes of Lurex knits and lingerie.

Mixing lamé brocade, wallpaper florals, paisley fabrics and lace with twinkling mesh overlays, there was a lot going on, but the juxtaposition looked good. Even the piled-up coin necklaces echoed the metallic pieces the brand is known for.

“I wanted it to be superrefined, almost giving a grunge, modern silhouette, but with all those delicate elements….There’s a bit of a mystic feel,” the designer said backstage.

Silhouettes moved between fitted tops and elongated sari skirts or filmy and flowy, with the designer also throwing more classic tailoring in mannish cloths and penny loafers into the mix. Sometimes the tailoring had a softer side, like the pants sporting a printed lining and paperbag waist, worn with a short sleeveless biker jacket. A silver jacquard maharaja-style suit with tiny metallic buttons was supercool. The lingerie dresses with flower embroidery added a feminine lightness.

The canned-heat conditions were stifling, with guests slow-baked under a grid of light bulbs over the runway, but the collection proved a good distraction in its compelling take on the Paco Rabanne legacy.

Launch Gallery: Paco Rabanne RTW Spring 2019

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