No sticker required: A short but epic beach hike in Wellfleet

Sent into a tailspin by the Great Snap Pea Debacle, I needed something to clear my mind. Of course, it was all my fault: boldly planting seeds on St. Patrick's Day, only to have them all rot away in the ensuing month of cruddy weather.

Icarus flew too close to the sun, I flew too close to the cold.  Maybe someday, I'll be the star of a myth called "Dimwit Pea Boy."

I ran this catastrophe by my life coach, Betta Smartenup, and she suggested a big beach hike. "The vast spaces will show you how insignificant you are, like a waterlogged seed in a cosmic garden," she said. "That will be $150."

I realized she was right. Nothing sets you straight like a saunter along the backshore. Our old pal erosion is always up to something sinister and interesting, and the weather has finally turned from root cellar damp to sometimes sunny with a hint of mild.

I whistled for the Curious Prius and we set sail for Lecount Hollow Beach in Wellfleet. The key to any outer beach walk is to go in the morning, when the sun is still illuminating the cliffs. It's also nice to pick a day without a potent east wind, which can crush joy like a cider press.

Luckily, the weather was on my side, and my spirit was already lighter by the time we reached the almost empty parking lot. I grabbed a VIP spot for the Prius, so refreshing when compared to the gassy competition of summer. Remember, you still won't need a stinkin' sticker at most Cape beaches until June, so now is a great time to get out there.

I figured I would walk north along the sand, up to White Crest Beach, then loop back to the starting point along Ocean View Drive. It would only be about two miles in total, a tasty little treat with plenty to look at.

The only thing I wasn't sure of was whether there was a working path up the steep dune at White Crest, which would throw a big wrench into the plan. Without a path, I would be marooned on the beach: either I would have to backtrack or continue walking further north to Cahoon Hollow Beach, lair of the legendary Beachcomber restaurant.

It was so great to be back on the big beach on a 50-degree day, with the sun in good form and showing no signs of moon-chafing from the recent eclipse. I stayed close to the cliffs, because I'm always convinced that erosion will uncover enormous treasure chests, and I'll be able to pay for groceries with gold doubloons.

The cliffs looked pretty beat up, and I spent quite a while gawking at a slow waterfall of sand tumbling down the face of a dune. Gravity always wins, especially when served with a side order of storm surge. Weird pipes jutted out of the cliff like metal spaghetti, souvenirs of past prime real estate.

Up ahead, a little valley of cottages was holding on, although a couple of homes seemed dangerously close to the edge. Eventually, it seems, they will take turns having oceanfront property, so I guess the lesson is to savor every summer and enjoy each cold beer on the back deck until it falls away.

I made it to White Crest and clambered up the insanely steep path on all fours. The small but epic journey had recharged my batteries and I had the courage to face my snap pea demons. It was time to head home and plant a new crop.

Eric Williams, when not solving Curious Cape Cod mysteries, writes about a variety of ways to enjoy the Cape, the weather, wildlife and other subjects. Contact him at [email protected]. Follow him on X: @capecast.

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This article originally appeared on Cape Cod Times: Hiking Cape Cod: Two mile loop walk along the beach in Wellfleet