Be more Griselda: it’s time to get the ‘Godmother glamour’ look (and men can do it too)
Unless you’ve been living in a bunker worthy of a fugitive Columbian drug lord, you’ll likely have heard of the “mob wife aesthetic”, the latest micro-trend to have been spawned by Tiktok. “Clean girl is out – mob wife era is in,” pronounced user Kayla Trivieri, in a video that currently has 1.7million views.
“We’re wearing vintage furs, cheetah prints, the sparkle, the glam, the big hair,” she continued, accompanied by photos of Adriana La Cerva and Carmela Soprano, characters from The Sopranos, the hit HBO show that celebrates its 25th anniversary this year. The 26 seconds video clearly struck a chord among women bored of January’s parsimonious exercise gear: within days, the “mob wife” trend went viral.
Which is all great fun if you’re 26. But what of those for whom Carmela Soprano is a can of Elnett and a chandelier earring too far? There is another way. Somewhat contentiously, it involves watching a grisly six-part docudrama about Griselda Blanco, aka The Godmother, the ruthless crime boss who ruled Miami with a diamond-clad fist throughout the 1970s and 80s, striking fear into the hearts of rival male drug lords and murdering anyone who got in her way. But if you can stomach the violence, you’ll be rewarded with a meticulously researched, accurate portrayal of late 70s Miami fashion, as well as a more sophisticated take on mob wife style.
Currently the most-watched TV series on Netflix, Griselda has had over 20.6 million views in its first week of release (January 22-28), clocking up over 113 million hours of watch time across the globe. Granted, most people probably aren’t watching it for the clothes, even if they are compelling. It helps that Griselda is played by Sofia Vergara, a woman who would look good in a sack, and whose beauty is barely dimmed by the prosthetic nose and yellow teeth she adopted to emulate a character whose chain-smoking, cocaine-taking, murderous ways gave her a face only a mother could love.
If the mob-wife aesthetic is centred on tacky tropes such as animal prints, lurex, leather and fur, the godmother aesthetic is somewhat pickier. Griselda’s team of costume designers looked to Catherine Deneuve, Diana Ross, Gena Rowlands and Cher for inspiration, as well as designers including Versace, Halston, Bob Mackie, Yves Saint Laurent and Diane von Furstenberg.
The latter explains why the show is such a paean to the wrap dress – a style, conveniently enough, that is back in favour for spring. Beloved for its flattering qualities, the wrap dress’s genius is its simplicity: it’s completely fastenerless, devoid of buttons and zips. Its other genius is that it creates the illusion of an hourglass shape, thanks to ties that wrap around the waist. This, and its deep V neckline, have made the wrap dress a perennial favourite among women of all ages and sizes. It’s one of the few dresses in existence that favours curvier body shapes, as Vergara winningly emphasises.
Another key look is the satin shirt, buttoned down to reveal a suggestion of cleavage without actually baring anything at all. Worn tucked into wide-leg trousers accessorised with a statement belt, it’s an all-ages take on “mob wife” that’s easy to emulate. To make Griselda’s button-down shirts, the costume team tracked down vintage Qiana, a nylon fabric that is no longer manufactured, as well as reproducing original prints from the era. Those wanting to emulate the look today can head to Tom Ford (now designed by Peter Hawkings) – the label can always be relied upon to provide a sophisticated take. On the high street, Whistles has a wide choice of silky shirts, while Sézane has a good pair of high-waisted, wide-leg trousers. For an 80s take, try Jigsaw’s pleat front trousers. -
Of equal – arguably even more – importance than the detail of your clothes is the accuracy of your accessories. Griselda’s costume team scoured old documentaries, newspapers and vintage catalogues, which explains why the jewellery – gold chains, bold earrings, signet rings – looks so authentic. There’s also a surfeit of oversized sunglasses, black lace tights, platform shoes and belts with decorative buckles; all items that have been strictly verboten since “quiet luxury” took hold, and whose resurgence seems all the more joyous because of it.
Those perplexed at why “mob wife” has popped up so randomly as a trend need look no further than “quiet luxury” for a reason. For every lover of a greige cashmere jumper, there’s someone who has felt quietly strangulated by the strictures of this tasteful trend. Somehow, minimalism has been conflated with coolness, and anyone who dares to have fun with fashion is seen as outre. Which is bad news for those of us who like to dress up.
Virginia Norris, co-founder of communications agency Aisle 8, recalls being introduced to a client as “sexy and glamorous”, a description which made her baulk. “I love to dress up and still do, but it made me wonder whether I can be cool and glamorous, while also being taken seriously,” she says. For Norris, a silk shirt and flared trouser combination is a failsafe look. “It never dates, and there are endless iterations. I have a pair of deep blue flared jeans from Sézane that are beautifully cut with two pockets at the front that draw your eye to the high waist. For shirts, I always go for a lighter colour, preferably cream, with a soft sheen and raglan sleeves. Accessories sharpen the look: gold hoops from Missoma are my staple.”
But Griselda isn’t merely significant for its womenswear: there’s plenty of menswear inspiration, too. While the wilder reaches of mafia boss style might be too OTT for the average man, those wanting to add a soupcon of seventies to their wardrobe can easily do so, according to the stylist Luke Day. “A revere collar shirt is a great little nod; bonus points if it’s in a print such as a dark Hawaiian pattern,” he suggests. “Putting the collar out over a jacket lapel really gives it that Griselda essence, making it bolder and more 70s. Labels like 73 London [available at Matches] do amazing silk print shirts and flared trousers – all very louche and elegant. Ben Cobb for Tiger of Sweden is perfect for an after-dark vibe. Saint Laurent and Husbands Paris are the luxe versions, but Phix [phixclothing.com] is a more affordable option, and brilliant for sleazy, sexy, retro pieces.”
An even easier hack, says Day, is to add some well-chosen accessories. “A chain with a pendant is a must, maybe a signet ring, definitely a belt. A white vest under a shirt also plays to that Latin gangster aesthetic. My dream Griselda look is black straight-leg jeans, a black short-sleeved shirt with a revere collar, and a white vest layered underneath, all tucked in with a belt from Jessie Western [jessiewestern.com].”
As for whether it’s problematic to be extrapolating style tips from a culture rooted in drugs and violence, my own feeling is that if you go down that road, you’re in danger of cutting off your nose to spite your wardrobe, and for what purpose?
The clothes are not the baddies here. Michelle Pfeiffer’s style in Scarface is still covetable despite her being married to a mafia boss, just as Chanel is still desirable despite her alleged links to the Nazis. If we start cancelling trends, we may as well give up on fun entirely. Which is ultimately what the mob wife aesthetic is: a bit of fun to brighten up a dull time of year.
Get the look...
Velvet jacket, ￡875 and trousers, ￡495, Bella Freud
Silk blouse, ￡175, Rixo
Jersey dress, ￡120, Boden; Gold-plated necklace, ￡310, Tilly Sveaas; Tailored trousers, ￡129, Aligne
Acetate glasses, from ￡99, Bloobloom
73 London silk shirt, ￡455 (currently on sale ￡182), Printemps; Corduroy blazer, ￡570, Ben Cobb for Tiger of Sweden
