Mob wife chic rules at the Dolce & Gabbana show in Milan
Even in Italy, where you might assume there would be certain sensitivities around the subject, the mob wife aesthetic popularised in Griselda, the Netflix hit, and currently taking TikTok by the throat, stalks the streets. It may not get very far – those heels are not compatible with the many grills and cobbles in this city – but it leaves a lasting impression.
One big change from the mob wife aesthetic of yesteryear however, is that the fur is emphatically faux. This is quite the cultural shift. Not so long ago, if you wanted to be taken seriously as a person of substance, it was better to go coatless in Milan than wear fake fur.
Even when superior, deluxe fakes from niche brands such as the London based Shrimps became fashionable a decade or so ago, those on the front row would leave theirs at home when they visited Milan. They were too kooky, too kitsch. Milanese style was, and to a large extent still is, about looking prosperous. Bring on the double ply cashmere.
But now, look as yet another social taboo crumbles. Dolce & Gabbana had the biggest, bounciest, more brazenly fake furs on its catwalk. Gucci had fake fur too, but it was mainly confined to trims. There has been a noticeable uptick of fake fur on the streets as well. Gen Z might be dusting off (great) granny’s vintage real mink in other countries, but not here, not yet.
Give them a chance. Italy is often accused of being behind the curve when it comes to taking on the lessons of Me Too, so it’s hard to know whether all the allusions to Helmut Newton in Dolce & Gabbana’s show were earnestly meant, or perhaps tongue-in-chic.
But here they were, piled on thick: dagger heels, sheer black tights, cummerbunds, nipple-revealing sheer chiffon tops, floor length leopard print, black dominatrix tailoring, lots of black, lots of leg and glitter, lots of veiled millinery, lashings of red lipstick and none of their famous florals. At those you had to steal a glance at Anna Wintour in the front row.
Perhaps the designers were both sincere and ironic in this eulogy to male gaze glamour – just as Newton himself was. No one can accuse them of not knowing how to dress women of all shapes, sizes and tastes in sexy clothes. Best known perhaps for body con lace and corseted dresses, the Tuxedo theme of the show gave Dolce & Gabbana free reign to display their impeccable tailoring.
It was fun to see the models, who included Amber Valletta, Eva Herzegova and Naomi Campbell, swagger rather than cower down the catwalk for once.
Earlier in the day, Maximilian Davis, the 27-year-old Creative Director at Ferragamo, showed a collection of quieter, contemporary luxury that was more in tune with the rest of Milan’s designers.
Masculine tailoring featured jackets with cuffed hems, hot pants and muted shades of lichen, brown, and, yes, black.
The off-note was curved stilettos that looked as though they were about to snap – this from a house founded by an engineering magician of footwear.
That aside, from someone so young, this is impressively refined and accomplished. It will be interesting to see what he does next.
More from the Dolce & Gabbana show...
