Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreen: Which One You Should Use, According to Derms
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Medically reviewed by Julia A. Siegel, MDFact checked by Yvonne McGreevy
Sun protection is an essential step in your daily skincare routine that can get a tad confusing at times, thanks to viral sunscreen trends and a constant influx of innovative products. But understanding how and when to use SPF is the most important action you can take for the long-term health of your skin. One of the most common sun protection topics that often stirs up confusion is the difference between mineral—also called physical—and chemical sunscreen formulas.
While the two sunscreen types offer protection from UV rays, the mechanics of how the formulations work differ. So, what's the difference between them, and is one more effective than the other? To get the low down on everything you need to know about mineral vs chemical sunscreen and which is best for you, we turned to board-certified dermatologists Corey L. Hartman, MD, and Hadley King, MD.
Keep reading to learn whether mineral or chemical sunscreen is right for you.
Meet The Experts
Corey L. Hartman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Birmingham, AL.
Hadley King, MD, is a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist who specializes in medical and cosmetic dermatology.
What Is Mineral Sunscreen?
Also commonly referred to as physical sunscreen, "Mineral sunscreens use UV filters that sit on top of the skin, effectively blocking rays from penetrating the skin’s surface," says Hartman. "The most common mineral filters are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends using a mineral sunscreen (instead of a chemical sunscreen) if you have sensitive or acne-prone skin.
Pros
Safe for Sensitive Skin: The active ingredients in mineral formulas—zinc oxide or titanium dioxide—are typically well-tolerated by sensitive skin types.
Suited for Acne-Prone Skin: Mineral formulas tend to also be non-comedogenic and non-inflammatory to those with acne-prone skin. And if zinc oxide is the active ingredient, it may even help to improve your acne.
Potentially More Effective Sun Protection: Because mineral formulas provide a physical barrier preventing the sun's rays from penetrating your skin, some dermatologists consider them more effective than chemical sunscreens. However, more research is needed to confirm this sentiment.
Cons
Undesirable Texture: Mineral sunscreens are often associated with a thick, goopy texture that isn't always enjoyable to wear—especially under makeup.
Can Leave a White Cast: Physical formulas have been known to leave a white cast on the skin, especially for those with deeper skin tones. However, modern formulas provide options, with many physical formulas containing a slight pink tint to neutralize the white cast. "Physical sunscreens have come a long way from their chalky, white, hard-to-spread predecessors," says King. "There are now many brands making physical sunscreens that are easy to apply and look great."
What Is Chemical Sunscreen?
"Chemical SPFs use approved UV filters that transform UV rays when absorbed into the skin into heat," says Hartman. "Some of the most common chemical UV filters include oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate." Chemical sunscreens tend to be lighter, more sheer (some are completely sheer), and generally more favored by consumers. However, they can also irritate those with sensitive skin and potentially have environmental consequences.
Pros
Clear: Chemical sunscreens are typically clear, gel-like formulas that don't leave a white-cast on the skin.
Spreadable and Enjoyable to Wear: There have been more innovations in chemical sunscreens than with physical sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens typically feature a lightweight, gel-like or spray-on texture that's easy to blend and enjoyable to wear with or without makeup. Some chemical sunscreens for the face even offer makeup benefits, such as enhancing the glow of the skin.
Cons
May Be Slightly Less Effective Than Mineral Formulas: Because chemical sunscreens function by absorbing the sun's rays instead of physically blocking them, they are considered by some dermatologists to be slightly less effective. However, the most effective sunscreen is the one you will actually wear. When using chemical sunscreens, just look for a broad-spectrum formula with SPF 30 or higher to reap the sun protection benefits.
May Have Adverse Environmental Effects: Ingredients commonly found in chemical formulas—such as oxybenzone—are not considered to be "reef-safe" in some states. However, significantly more research is needed to determine the effects of SPF on the ocean and reefs.
There are Recalls Associated With Some Chemical Formulas: To be completely clear, chemical sunscreens are considered safe by board-certified dermatologists, and you are at significantly greater risk of skin cancer if you skip sunscreen. However, it's worth noting that there have been some recalls associated with chemical sunscreens in the past. Recalled products have been removed from shelves, and Hartman assures that you can safely use chemical sunscreen if that's your preference.
Mineral vs. Chemical Sunscreen: What's the Difference?
The key difference between mineral and chemical sunscreens is that mineral formulas sit on top of the skin and block rays at the surface using ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, while chemical sunscreens absorb rays like a sponge using ingredients like oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, or octinoxate. Mineral sunscreens tend to be better suited for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin, but the formulations also tend to be thicker (and can potentially leave a white cast behind on deeper skin tones). Chemical sunscreens are usually lighter, clearer, and more enjoyable to wear, but the active ingredients in chemical sunscreens can also be irritating for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin.
Is Mineral Sunscreen Better Than Chemical Sunscreen?
Given the potential environmental impact and a few chemical sunscreen recalls here and there, mineral sunscreens do tend to be more trusted across the board by dermatologists. But with that being said, both of the dermatologists we've interviewed agree that the "best" sunscreen is the one you will actually wear—and that will vary if you have dark skin, acneic skin, sensitive skin, or a personal preference for the feel of a product.
"Regardless of the sunscreen you choose, the most important thing is that you should be wearing sunscreen every day," says Hartman, noting that he's particularly fond of physical formulas as a personal choice. "Mineral formulas are not more powerful or more effective than chemical sunscreens, but I’m partial to mineral sunscreens because they are chemical-free, ocean- and environment-friendly, and incapable of causing allergies."
Acneic or Sensitive Skin: Use Mineral SPF
King notes that you should take your skin type into consideration when choosing sunscreen. "Two things can cause sunscreen-related breakouts: occlusion of the pores by comedogenic materials or a sensitivity reaction to chemical UV-blocking ingredients," she says. For this reason, she recommends physical sunscreens over chemical formulations for acne-prone and sensitive skin types and suggests looking for oil-free or non-comedogenic on the label.
Deep Skin Tones: May Prefer Chemical SPF
For those with darker skin types, King notes that finding a physical sunscreen that doesn't make skin appear pasty can be challenging. "Chemical sunscreens will be easier in this regard, but there are physical sunscreens, particularly tinted ones, that shouldn't have this issue either," she notes. Hartman echoes this sentiment, noting that while there are certainly physical/mineral options that blend into deep skin tones, using a chemical formula might be easier (and more cost-effective).
"Traditionally, mineral sunscreens have not been as elegant as chemical sunscreens, especially for people with brown and black skin," Hartman says. "Breakthrough products that provide physical SPF protection for darker skin types without leaving a white or iridescent cast are innovations indeed. Once you find the perfect physical sunscreen, I don’t think there’s a reason to use chemicals, but this is only my opinion."
Final Takeaway
Ultimately, both of the experts we've interviewed agree that the best sunscreen is the one you will actually wear. So, while mineral sunscreens may be more trusted across the board, it's only "better" if you'll actually wear it. Stick to mineral sunscreens if you have acne-prone or sensitive skin. Otherwise, chemical sunscreens are a safe, effective option that is typically lightweight and more enjoyable to wear. Pay less attention to the mineral vs chemical debate and instead focus on finding a sunscreen you love that is labeled as broad-spectrum: "This means that it protects against both UVA rays, which age the skin, and UVB rays, which burn the skin," says Hartman. "Both UVA and UVB rays are dangerous and can lead to accelerated skin aging and skin cancer. Choose a minimum SPF 30, and you can even go a bit higher for your face, neck, and decolletage."
Up Next: 11 Tips for Choosing a Sunscreen, Directly From Dermatologists
Read the original article on Byrdie.