A Look at China’s Strict 8,000m Rules

Cho Oyu teams are already in Base Camp, record-seekers are packing up to head for Shisha Pangma, and the U.S. ski team featuring Jim Morrison and Jimmy Chin has confirmed plans to ski the Hornbein Couloir on the north side of Everest. All will have to stick to strict safety and environmental regulations imposed by the powerful China-Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA). They would be wise to take the rules seriously.

Safety above all

Climbers applying for a permit to Tibetan peaks must provide a complete medical dossier and a climbing resumé, including certificates of previous ascents.

Previous ascents can be no more than 1,000m lower than the peak they want to attempt. It is clearly stated in the document issued by the CTMA, to which ExplorersWeb has access:

Once on the mountain, the CTMA establishes a series of safety rules. They state that every foreign climber needs to be “accompanied by a professional mountain guide” without specifying any particular accreditation.

Climbers must also use supplementary oxygen from 7,000m. For those thinking that some climbers might carry O2 to comply with the requirements but not use it, that idea won’t fly. The document is clear: “Oxygen must be used throughout the journey above 7,000m.”

The “Fuse Mechanism” might refer to something more than the weather. Last year, when two avalanches took the lives of two American clients and their sherpa guides, the CTMA closed the mountain for the rest of the season.

Shisha Pangma teams marching on

After outfitter Climbalaya confirmed that China had granted permits and visas, more climbers confirmed their plans for Shisha Pangma. Most of them have a record in mind, though some publicize it more than others.

Nima Rinji Sherpa is determined to “make history” by completing the 14×8,000’ers on Shisha Pangma at 18 years old. The son of Seven Summit Treks partner Tashi Lakpa Sherpa, he has been granted a golden opportunity and summited one 8,000’er after another at a remarkable pace.

Adriana Brownlee of the UK climbed 13 of the 14 8,000’ers in just three years, all before turning 25. Currently running a trekking and expedition company with partner Gelje Sherpa, Brownlee is now reflecting on the pressure from social media and her mountaineering objectives.

“The goal was never to be the youngest, the fastest, the first, but to enjoy,” Brownlee said. “Although social media may portray it differently, that’s the way it has to go sometimes to complete fundraising…such monumental amounts!”

Nevertheless, she is on her way to Shisha Pangma to complete the project.

More 14 x 8,000’er quests

Other climbers hoping to finish their 14×8,000’ers quest are Dawa Yangzum Sherpa of Nepal, Grace Tseng of Taiwan, Sirbaz Khan and Shehroze Kashif of Pakistan, Uta Ibrahimi of Albania-Kosovo, Mario Vielmo of Italy, Tracee Metcalf of the U.S., and some others who have not chosen to confirm their participation.

Nirmal Purja also announced in an Instagram post that he is going to Shisha Pangma. “I will hopefully achieve a long-held dream, summiting all 14 peaks without any supplementary oxygen in record time,” he wrote.

We have not received any information explaining what is he going to do about the CTMA requirements.

As for the Cho Oyu teams, Furtenbach Adventures are already settled in Advanced Base Camp at 5,700m, with clouds covering the mountain and some fresh snow.

The Adventure Consultants team reached lower Base Camp yesterday. Alpenglow Expeditions (led by Carla Perez and Topo Mena) had their puja and also rotated to Camp 1, with a trip to Camp 2 and back. Madison Mountaineering is on its way.

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