In My Jewellery Box: Mita Vohra, Ortaea
Born and raised in Kenya and of Indian descent, Mita Vohra studied law in London before joining her family’s hotel business. After a stint in the film financing industry, Vohra launched fine jewellery brand Jooal along with her ex-husband, with whom she worked for 15 years.
After they split, Vohra turned her attention to her own jewellery line, which she launched last year. Named Ortaea - a combination of the Latin word for new beginnings, Ortus, and Gaea, the Greek goddess of creation - the brand takes inspiration from nature and Vohra’s interests in astrology, symbolism and mythology.
With a fascination for the energy held within gemstones and a love of bold, striking design, Vohra shares the most precious pieces in her own jewellery collection.
Colombian emerald and Venezuelan pearl ring
I have always believed in the energy of gemstones: a big part of what drew me to jewellery was the fact that the gems come from the earth, nature is at their core. A few years ago I started to find out more about the astrological side of gemstones.
In 2014 a teacher and dear friend of mine in Kenya did my astrological readings. These look into when and where you were born to find out how different planets might influence you at different times in your life. The belief is that different gemstones are aligned with different planets and wearing them will balance out the energy that a particular planet may influence. A lot of people think it’s entirely conjecture but I find it fascinating.
Emeralds are connected to the heart chakra, the body’s central energy point. They’re the colour of nature, and for centuries have been linked to health. I was recommended this particular Colombian emerald, down to its exact weight and shape, and was told that pearls are also a balancing force. I’m a very passionate, highly emotional person so the idea of balance sounded good to me.
I set the gems in this ring so that they touch the skin from the inside. I don’t necessarily wear it every day but I always carry it, along with several other gemstones, with me.
Have they helped? Psychologically, when you believe something is going to help you it generally will, because you are manifesting. But there is something additional about the energy of gems. They give me a different sort of clarity and a much stronger connection to the voice inside my head. I find it immensely powerful.
Steel Kada bangle
This "kada" bangle is my most treasured piece. It was given me by my mother when I was born: it’s a tradition, we were all given bangles as babies and we change them over the years as our wrists grow. So I’ve worn it almost every single day of my life.
The symbolism behind this type of bangle is beautiful: it began as an arm shield worn by warriors, so it has evolved into a symbol of protection and strength - particularly inner strength. It inspired one of my first collections for Ortaea, the Armour line.
This bangle is particularly special because it came from my nephew: I had misplaced my original bangle and was very upset about it. My mother had recently been to the Golden Temple in Amritsar and brought back two kada for my nephew, my brother’s son, who gave me one of them. He is very much into discipline and the power within, so it meant that much more that it came from him as well as my mother.
Diamond hoop earrings
These were designed about eight years ago by my partner. I’m a big fan of hoop earrings - they are so versatile and wearable. As soon as I saw them I said “oh my goodness I love them, I want to have them!”
I absolutely love the way these sit on the ear and frame the face, they flow very nicely. I also love the detailing at the back and the way the diamonds are set on the inside of the hoop. They’re fun and light but can also be quite glamorous and serious if they’re styled the right way. They are my day-to-night essential and a piece I will be wearing for years to come.
Polki diamond cuff
My mother bought me this bangle on a trip to Jaipur. She has a stunning jewellery collection herself but our tastes are very different - she likes classic pieces such as pearls and vintage diamonds but she knows I like more standout pieces.
This cuff is typical of Jaipur jewellery; its style is derived from jewels of the Mughal era. It’s made in silver on the top and 22ct gold on the inside, and set with "Polki diamonds". These are often referred to as "uncut" diamonds because they are cut flat, not faceted - they are one of the oldest forms of cut diamonds. For me their beauty lies in their organic shapes and the fact that each one is different.
I love the way that these ancient diamonds are mixed with this modern style of cuff - it’s got that real old-meets-new feeling. It’s a very unique, strong piece and is representative of the type of jewellery I love to design and wear. At Ortaea we haven’t ventured into working with flat-cut diamonds yet but we might at some point.
Ortaea black gold Armour ring and bangle
Inspired by my own kada bracelet, the Armour range is a tribute to the "warrior within" us. I’m interested in symbolism and history so it made sense for us to start with this piece. For me the warrior within is all about creating your own reality, and learning and growing from periods of difficulty. When I wear my Armour pieces I can feel the strength and power they exude.
The pieces are all very bold, with clean, flowing lines in different colours of gold and diamonds. The black gold in particular is very strong. People seem to be attracted to these pieces - I rarely wear them without being asked where it’s from.
When you know the symbolism behind it, it’s interesting to see the types of women who are attracted to the Armour range. They tend to be independent women who make their own decisions about the jewellery they buy; they already have access to this power inside them so the idea of tapping into that resonates with them.
My nephew also wears Armour and a lot of men ask him where he got it, so I’m sure we will develop a men’s line too.
Ortaea is available at Harvey Nichols
More In My Jewellery Box
