The Industry Verdict Is In: Here’s Why Bottega Veneta Is the House That’s Calling the Shots

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Biggest Milan runway trend so far? Gigi and Bella Hadid. See Prada, Max Mara, Fendi, Alberto Ferretti and Moschino for further details. You could be forgiven for thinking that Milan Fashion Week is actually the Gigi and Bella show. Because, let’s face it, currently, they’re likely to give your label more online traction than the clothes and accessories they’re showcasing.

Unless you’re Bottega Veneta.

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Daniel Lee bucked said trend, relying, instead, on his collection to do the job.

And it certainly did.

He’s already brought us the mesh pump “It” shoe of the current season. However, spring ’20 highlights included the twisted double-strap Lido mule, the new asymmetrical take on that mesh stretch pump — ankle chain a given — and, as Browns Fashion’s Ida Petersson called it (see below), the new, rounded toe shape. This is super interesting because it proves Lee’s capacity to call trends and advance the conversation rather than simply following them. He was, after all, at the forefront of the square toe trend.

Here’s the industry verdict on his continued dominance.

Tiffany Hsu, fashion buying director, Mytheresa

The Shoes: I love the new intrecciato double-strap mules and the babouche styles for men. They are so comfortable to wear for such a statement shoe. [“Intrecciato” is the company’s staple fine leather-weaving technique, and “babouche” refers to Bedouin-inspired, slipperlike shoes with a pointed or almond toe and a back that can fold down for comfort.]

The Show: It’s a collection that everyone simply wants to wear. Effortless and relaxed and very summery with great details.

The Staying Power: For sure, there’s room for development, but as long as the newness remains, the brand is here to stay. It’s timeless with the best quality and meets exactly the nowadays needs.

Ida Petersson, buying director, Browns Fashion

The Shoes: I absolutely loved them — a great move on from last season. I particularly loved the new, more-rounded toe, and those rhinestone pumps were a real highlight.

The Show: I loved the mix of materials and the juxtaposition between the soft casual leathers and the strong evening looks. A great second show and I can’t wait to see it up close in the showroom, where I’ll really be able to experience the fabric textures.

The Staying Power: If Lee keeps moving the silhouettes on like he did today, whilst still maintaining that timeless luxury look that he has mastered, then Bottega Veneta is here to stay.

@NewBottega founder Laura Rossi

The Shoes: The double-strap intrecciato mule, the update on the mesh stretch pump and those disco shoes.

The Show: It was all about this thin line between minimalism and that little hint of sparkle that makes each piece stand out. One of the best color palettes I’ve seen in years — it felt really fresh.

The Staying Power: It’s more than a trend; it’s a way of dressing.

Click through the gallery to see the full Bottega Veneta spring 2020.

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