How Fashion Influencers Have Changed The Way We Shop
Kate Moss, Kate Moss x Topshop (2007-2014)
Not only was Kate Moss one of the first major style icons to do a design gig on the side, but she proved it to be a viable business model. Her inaugural offerings for British high street chain Topshop—initially planned as a one time only thing—sold so well, she was was kept on for 13 more turns.
Lauren Conrad, LC Lauren Conrad (2009), and Paper Crown (2011)
Before Conrad started her design career in ernest, she spent years kind of, sort of having a fashion job for the filming purposes of her hit reality show, The Hills (so meta). Post-wrap, she parlayed that popularity into LC Lauren Conrad, an affordable line sold exclusively at Kohl’s, and her higher end Paper Crown range, both of which are still going strong to date.
Whitney Port, Whitney Eve (2008)
Another label from a Hills-alum-turned-designer, Whitney Eve hit a cash flow roughly four years after launch, and attempted to crowdsource the extra funds needed to present at New York Fashion Week. Although the move was received with a great deal of backlash online, the label survived going forward by skipping the show circuit altogether, and landing some major department store and boutique accounts.
Alexa Chung, Alexa Chung x Madewell (2010-2011), Alexa Chung x AG (2015)
What happens when you combine the coolest of cool girls with the coolest of cool brands? That would be essentially every capsule line Alexa Chung has had a hand in, always filled will items centered around her celebrated tomboy-sweet style, many of which sell out within hours.
Leandra Medine “The Man Repeller,” Dannijo (2012), Pjk (2013), Superga (2014), Veda (2015)
Between the extensive readership of her “Man Repeller” website, and infectiously fun approach to style, Leandra is a designer favorite for special projects. Customers seem to be on board with the idea as well: most every limited edition piece the fashion writer works on—be it velvet sneakers for Superga, or her own spin on Veda’s trench coats—becomes a big hit.
Rachel Zoe, Rachel Zoe (2011)
Despite rumors that her brand was shuttering in 2014, celebrity stylist Rachel Zoe’s namesake label has seen a great deal of positive attention lately, thanks less to the buzzy woman behind it than her keen eye for translating vintage references to modern day dressing.
Joe Zee, Styled by Joe Zee (2014)
Unlike most everyone else on this list, former ELLE creative director (and current Yahoo! Style Editor-In-Chief) Joe Zee is known not for his own clothes, but the amazing outfits he puts other people in. Decades of experience styling major magazine shoots and consulting designers have made him an authority on creating the perfect look, a skill that’s proved invaluable to the continued success of his QVC-exclusive line, Styled by Joe Zee.
Rumi Neely, ARE YOU I AM (2014)
Between her ready made customer-base on social media, and obsessive attention to quality fit and fabric, Rumi Neely’s selection of luxe, minimalist wardrobe staples has been a hit from the start.
Ines de la Fressange, Ines de la Fressange x Uniqlo (2015)
The brilliance of tapping French model Ines da la Fressange for a clothing collab is that her classic, quintessentially Parisian flare will also appeal to those who don’t recognize her name. Clearly, the formula worked, as she was invited back for the second go-round, due out this season.
Emily Schumann, Cupcakes and Cashmere (2015)
While online influencer Emily Schumann only launched a full apparel line this fall—named for her popular website, Cupcakes and Cashmere—she’s also done some well-received exclusives with various companies over the years, including Coach, and Club Monaco. Given its affordable prices (most items are under $150) and approachable, classic aesthetic, her latest venture will likely be met with an similarly enthusiastic reception.
Carine Roitfeld, Carine Roitfeld x Uniqlo (2015)
Seeing as Roitfeld is equally known for her prolific edgy editorial work, and personal style, it’s no surprise that news of her initial turn at designing—launching later this month at Uniqlo—has been met with great fanfare: On launch day, over half of the available styles items sold out.
Garance Doré, Garance Doré x Vince (2015)
Vince gets the Garance Doré treatment when the French blogger curates a selection of piece that epitomize her clean, classic style.
Less than a decade ago, the fashion industry had two sides—there were the writers, editors, tastemakers, and then the designers. Like so many things, that line’s started to blur with increasing regularity. From Lauren Conrad to Carine Roitfeld, those who’ve worked at magazines, styled photo shoots, and covered runway shows have tried their hand at if not designing, at least collaborating with brands and retailers on one-off capsule collections or full blown fashion lines. While celebrity collaborations used to be the novelty move, the rise of bloggers, photographers, and slashies at the center of the rapidly evolving fashion industry have given brands way more to work with.
Garance Dore is the most recent influencer to jump into the retail fray, via her recent collaboration with Vince. Instead of designing new sweaters, the Corsican blogger picked out past favorites to curate a new capsule collection. “I think people these days are looking for a little guidance,” Doré says. “There’s so much choice today. Stores are so big, and they try to offer so much—it’s hard to shop because you’ve got to spend a lot of time curating and editing. So if someone whose taste you trust is doing the work for you, that’s pretty cool.”
Those legions of followers looking for guidance have also played an important role in getting big brands on board. “Working with fashion influencers is a great tool that allows brands to reach a new customer base,” explains Vince’s Vice President of Marketing, Lindsey Worster. “Partnerships can offer a fresh perspective to an established brand, and introduce the influencer to an audience they may not have otherwise had access to.” What’s more, any company that taps a member of the fashion industry benefits from his or her expertise in other areas of the business. Garance, for example, has a career that takes her from front row at NYFW one day to shooting a luxury campaign the next, so she’s built up an innate sense for which pieces go with what. “She is a true professional, and views clothing with both a critical and creative eye, making her an excellent curator.”
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Some insiders have taken things a step further, parlaying their taste and influence into solo design endeavors despite a lack of formal training. When Fashion Toast blogger Rumi Neely launched a label based on her signature Cali-chic style, ARE YOU I AM, in 2014, her limited experience was not a concern. “I don’t have that technical background, but I know exactly, to a crazy degree, how I want something to look. That’s how the line started: I feel like I’ve seen so much, and I still thought there was all these things that I wished existed. So I have an amazing production manager and pattern maker that I can convey these very specific ideas to; together we make this very well rounded, very capable team. [Lack of experience] hasn’t been an obstruction whatsoever.” So do customers feel the same way? “I feel like people just want to see you doing something that’s pure, and you’re truly excited by, and they can pick up on that—the majority of our customers come back for more because they get that this is its own thing. Even my friends that work in the clothing industry tell me, ‘You’re doing something that doesn’t exist.’”
As a consumer (and fashion lover), I get the appeal. Whereas I’ve always felt that something about celebrity-backed lines rings false (mainly, the great disconnect between a certain star’s wardrobe and the pieces she’s shilling), there’s an undeniable sense of authenticity when someone who really, truly loves and understands clothing is involved. When you look at the pieces Garance handpicked for Vince—oversized textured knits, muted button-down shirts, slim black trousers—it’s easy to imagine she’s got more than a few in her closet already. And the slinky, silk separates Rumi Neely’s created over the last year and half feel so much like something you’d spot on her site or Instagram feed, it’s hard not to imagine her face hovering above each one. Considering the completely overwhelming, ever increasing number of options for shoppers out there, looking to those we admire for direction makes creating a well-rounded closet much easier. Of course, it wasn’t always that way. Above, we’ve compiled a timeline of fashion influencers in retail, starting with early pioneers in the movement to those leading the pack today.
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