Gucci Spring 2025 Wants Us to Seize the (Chic) Day

Fall fashion lovers might already be blithely season pushing, but in Sabato De Sarno’s mind, summer is not yet over. The creative director of Gucci was inspired by “the moment the sun dives into the sea at the end of an August day” for the spring 2025 collection he presented today at the Triennale Milano. The chambers of the Milanese museum were lit in graduated sunset colors, while a crowd that included Debbie Harry, Julia Garner, Gabbriette, Nara and Lucky Blue Smith, and Dakota Johnson looked on.

“Casual grandeur,” according to the designer’s show notes, was the centerpiece of this collection, with a focus on his leitmotifs: the ’60s, tailoring, lingerie, and leather. De Sarno delivered a uniform fit for a nonchalant jet-setter: low-slung trousers with louche tanks, draped cutout gowns in jersey, daring transparent lace pieces, and baggy jeans worn with floor-sweeping trenches. His beloved hues of deep red (such a signature that it’s been dubbed Gucci Rosso Ancora) and chartreuse added a poppy element.

The vacation vibes could be felt in the sun hats, oversized sunglasses, and jet-set Gucci Flora headscarves, while evening-ready drama was delivered via twinkling Gatsby dresses and coats that sported glittering fringe (and came with coordinating bags).

He tied in the house’s heritage with takes on the Bamboo bag and the Horsebit motif, and debuted a new Gucci Go bag. The Bamboo handle also inspired the sculptural bracelets snaking up the models’ arms and modernist tubular chokers; the perfect fusion of past and present.

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