How to Glue Down Your Eyebrows Like a Drag Queen

It's no secret that eyebrows have the power to transform a face. And sometimes, perfect brows require starting from zero—as in drawing completely new ones on a blank canvas. Brow covering is a time-honored tradition in which the natural eyes are masked with glue (or a similar adhesive), and new, often more dramatic, brows are drawn on top.

While the technique's been around for centuries, it's generally been limited to the theater and drag communities. But these days, anything goes, and gluing down brows is a great option for those looking to create a really unique or special makeup look. To get the lowdown on the laydown, we tapped the experts—pro makeup artist Andy Truong and makeup artist and drag queen Christopher Cianci—to learn how to glue down your brows like a pro.

Meet the Experts

• Andy Truong is a celebrity makeup artist based in Utah and Las Vegas and founder of A. TRU Collection.

• Christopher Cianci is a bridal, celebrity, and event makeup artist based in New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. He is also known as the drag queen Crystal Envy.
  

Why Glue Down Your Brows?

In the drag world, you glue down your brows to create a blank, smooth canvas upon which you can draw more stylized, dramatic brows, Truong tells us. But you need to add the brows back: "Drag makeup generally tends to be more exaggerated, so having a larger canvas on the eye lets your artistic imagination flow," Cianci explains.

Brows play a major role in framing the face and creating a sense of mood—more refined brows lend a Hollywood glamour feel, while fuller, bushier brows feel androgynous and tough. By starting with a truly blank slate, you create a new facial structure and can craft the brows to match the intended effect.

How to Prepare

Prep is key to laying down brows correctly. First, you'll want to make sure there's no skincare or makeup in the brow area; otherwise, the glue may not lay down well. Then, to remove any excess oil, Truong suggests wiping brows with a cotton pad dipped in 70 percent isopropyl alcohol.

It's important to know that the longer the brow hairs, the harder they'll be to lay down. So, while it's certainly not necessary, Cianci says trimming beforehand can help.

Choosing the Right Glue

There's a multitude of products you can use to successfully glue down your brows. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference. Both experts recommend an old drag faithful: an Elmer's Glue Stick—specifically, the Elmer's Disappearing Purple Glue Stick ($6). "I don't know why, but it works the best out of the bunch I've tried," Cianci says.

For profuse sweaters, he suggests opting for something more heavy-duty. While a glue stick is easily removed with soap and water, sweat can potentially dissolve the glue and crack the brows, so opt for a waterproof formula like Graftobian Spirit Gum ($15), Mehron Makeup SynWax ($10), or Bobisuka Clear Liquid Latex ($8) instead. While these options provide better sweat-proof coverage, they tend to be more aggressive on the brows and skin when removed.

A Step-by-Step Guide to Gluing Down Brows

Clean Your Brows

Remove any previous makeup or product on the skin with a water-based makeup remover. Follow this by swiping a cotton pad dipped in 70 percent isopropyl alcohol on the brows and surrounding area. Wait for everything to completely dry.

Apply Adhesive

Take your glue stick (or adhesive of choice) and really saturate the brows with the product. Cianci suggests going against the direction of growth to ensure 360-degree coverage of each brow hair. Meanwhile, Truong recommends rubbing back and forth in a circular motion, fully soaking the brows. For more precise application, only use your chosen product on the direct brow areas.

Lay Down the Brows

Using a spoolie brush, eyebrow brush, or lash comb, brush the hairs back down in the direction they grow. Cianci says this will likely differ for each person; for him, it's up and on an angle. The goal is to make the brow hairs lay completely flat on the skin to create the smoothest base.

Dry the Glue

Using a blow dryer on the cool setting, dry the layer of glue (or wait for it to dry naturally, if you prefer).

Repeat as Needed

Take the glue stick or adhesive and add another layer on top of the smoothed-down hairs. Repeat three to five times depending on brow thickness, ensuring each layer is dry before moving to the next.

Bake and Set

Once dry to the touch, bake and set the area using translucent setting powder and a powder puff. This will fully harden and solidify the layer.

Cover With Foundation

Using a full-coverage foundation or concealer, completely cover the area and blend into the skin. Both experts suggest using a cream formula, though you can certainly use liquid.

Tips

If you have darker brows, apply an orange color corrector before layering your foundation and concealer.

Re-Set the Brow Area

Re-powder your brows (or lack thereof) and entire face to create an even complexion that's locked in place.

Get Creative

Time to play! To avoid lifting all your hard work, Truong suggests sticking to gel-based products to draw on and fill in the brows; he's a fan of the Anastasia Beverley Hills DipBrow Pomade ($21). And be sure to use a light touch with your application—any rough movements can potentially lead to lifting.

Removing the Glue

While some methods require a solvent solution for removal (spirit gum, liquid latex, and the like), Cianci says you should be able to remove glue sticks with some standard soap and water. Meanwhile, Truong suggests soaking a cotton pad in an oil-based makeup remover. Hold it over the area for 20 to 30 seconds before gently rubbing to remove any product build-up. Repeat as needed until fully removed, then continue your skincare routine as usual.

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Read the original article on Byrdie.