FYI: Those Tiny Dots Around Your Nose Might Not Be Blackheads
In the age of filters and air brushing, it can be difficult to remember what real skin actually looks like, especially up close. So if you’ve ever noticed a cluster of tiny, darkish dots on your nose or another central spot on your face, you may have initially thought they were blackheads. But there’s a chance those marks are actually sebaceous filaments, and though they're 100% normal and actually beneficial in the grand scheme of your skin health, sebaceous filaments aren’t always the most attractive thing.
Meet Our Experts: Dr. Carmen Castilla, M.D., New York City-based, board-certified dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group, Dr. Noe?lle Sherber, M.D., F.A.A.D., board-certified dermatologist, co-founder of SHERBER+RAD in Washington, D.C., and clinical associate professor of dermatology at George Washington University School of Medicine and Health Science
The good news though is you can do certain things to minimize the visibility of sebaceous filaments if they bother you, all without disrupting the net positive effects they have on your skin. To demystify these grayish, flat marks, expert dermatologists weighed in on what causes sebaceous filaments, how they’re different from blackheads, and what you can do to minimize their appearance (Hint: It doesn’t involve squeezing).
What are sebaceous filaments?
Turns out sebaceous filaments, which appear on the face as darkish dots roughly the size of pinheads, actually play an instrumental role in the skin’s ability to keep itself lubricated and protected.
“Sebaceous filaments are composed of sebum produced by oil glands and are part of the normal mechanism by which oil glands keep the skin moisturized,” says Carmen Castilla, M.D., a New York City-based, board-certified dermatologist at New York Dermatology Group. Noe?lle Sherber, M.D., F.A.A.D., a board-certified dermatologist, co-founder of SHERBER+RAD in Washington, D.C., and clinical associate professor of dermatology at George Washington University School of Medicine and Health Science, breaks it down even further.
“The skin produces oil, or sebum, in a structure called the pilosebaceous unit,” says Dr. Sherber. “This is comprised of a hair follicle, oil gland, and sweat gland and is a normal part of skin anatomy, which is essential for healthy skin functioning.”
According to Dr. Sherber, the opening of the tube-like pilosebaceous unit is a pore, and when that pore has a buildup of oil inside, it can appear as a darkened dot on the skin surface (which is, by definition, a sebaceous filament). Those with larger pores and oily and/or acne-prone skin types often find their sebaceous filaments to be more visible to the naked eye, says Dr. Castilla. She also adds that because the nose has more oil glands than other parts of the face, sebaceous filaments tend to be more prominent there as well, though you may notice them in other areas of your T-zone or on your cheeks, too. Healthy skin produces natural oils, so think of sebaceous filaments as conduits of sebum, allowing this material to reach the surface of your skin to moisturize it and keep its barrier intact.
How do sebaceous filaments differ from blackheads?
On first glance, you might mistake sebaceous filaments for blackheads, but the two are not the same thing and shouldn’t be treated the same way. “Sebaceous filaments and blackheads can appear very similar and are very easy to confuse,” says Dr. Castilla. “Sebaceous filaments are generally a lighter gray color versus blackheads that are darker. Blackheads also tend to be slightly raised with a black dot centrally, [while] sebaceous filaments tend to be flat gray dots.”
Beyond the differences in profile and color (Dr. Sherber notes that sebaceous filaments can also appear sandy or white-yellowish in hue, whereas blackheads will be dark brown or even true black, due to the oxidation of oil that’s taken place), location can also be an indicator of whether your tiny dots are blackheads or sebaceous filaments.
“Blackheads can happen anywhere on the face, whereas sebaceous filaments are typically concentrated on the nose and the central cheeks,” says Dr. Castilla. The tricky thing is you can have both blackheads and sebaceous filaments at the same time, but unlike blackheads, sebaceous filaments technically aren’t fully “clogged” with oil and typically don’t lead to acne.
How do you treat sebaceous filaments?
According to Dr. Castilla, minimizing the appearance of sebaceous filaments is the key to “treating” them, and you can attempt to prevent further sebaceous filament formation to some extent, too, with certain products and procedures. You’ll want to manage your expectations here though because, again, these dots are, frankly, impossible to remove without Photoshop-level editing.
“You will never get rid of them, nor would you want to,” says Dr. Castilla. “Sebaceous filaments are normal and how your skin naturally lubricates itself.”
First and foremost, don’t pick at these tiny dots because that'll only cause further irritation or redness, making them even more noticeable. “Trying to squeeze sebaceous filaments can traumatize the skin, so extractions should be left to a professional,” says Dr. Sherber. “Another big ‘don’t’ when it comes to sebaceous filaments is sleeping in makeup rather than giving skin a thorough cleanse before bed.”
Since oil dissolves in oil, Dr. Sherber recommends using an oil-based cleanser, which can help to emulsify some of the oils in sebaceous filaments. “For oily or acne-prone skin types, follow an oil-based cleanser with a water-based gel cleanser to remove any residue,” she adds. Remember to wash your face after working out and perspiring as well.
If you have oily, acne-prone skin, you might want to avoid certain products that contain heavier oils, says Dr. Sherber. “The use of heavier oils (particularly the ones which are solid at room temperature such as shea butter and coconut oil) can clog pores and make sebaceous filaments more prominent,” she says.
Most skin types can also benefit from adding a clay mask into their beauty routines. “Clay masks can help to wick oil out of the pores, particularly those combined with beta hydroxy acids, as these dissolve in oil and break up congestion,” says Dr. Sherber. Medical grade facials can help clean out the pores and minimize the appearance of sebaceous filaments as well, says Dr. Castilla, but she stresses the importance of “routine treatments to maintain the results,” which can require a significant investment in both time and money.
Both dermatologists also suggest retinoids, which can shore up the collagen supply surrounding your pores, thus minimizing the appearance of any sebaceous filaments you might be noticing. “Topical retinoids are effective in keeping pores clear and reducing excess oil production,” says Dr. Sherber. “There are products available over-the-counter like those containing retinol and prescription versions such as Altreno.” If your skin can’t handle retinoids, Dr. Sherber says consistent exfoliation with an enzyme-based exfoliant can be a good alternative.
Finally, though more expensive than retinoids and exfoliants, Dr. Castilla says resurfacing lasers can have an even more profound effect on collagen support and the appearance of sebaceous filaments. Dr. Sherber agrees and specifically recommends non-ablative fractional lasers like the Clear + Brilliant treatment.
“This laser has been studied to reduce pore size over time and has become a favorite treatment for those who appear on HD film and want their skin to be as smooth and even as possible,” says Dr. Sherber.
Whether you opt for a laser treatment and/or regular medical grade facials if your budget allows—or you just use some combination of the pore-minimizing products mentioned here—you’ll also want to wear sunscreen regularly.
“Excess sun exposure can weaken collagen support to pores, leading them to be more noticeable,” says Dr. Castilla, which, again, can have a trickle-down effect on the prominence of your sebaceous filaments. Don’t assume that your skincare regimen won’t need adjustments throughout the year either. “It’s also beneficial to make sure that your skin has an optimal balance of hydration and moisture, which can change over the seasons, since skin can overproduce oil to compensate for dehydration or dryness,” says Dr. Sherber.
When might you want to consult a dermatologist for your sebaceous filaments?
According to Dr. Castilla, sebaceous filaments are generally benign, but it’s always good to address skin concerns with a board-certified dermatologist when you have questions.
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