Discover Fairport's scarcest reservation: A bar hidden behind a secret doorway

When Brighton High School graduate Kim Rose and New Jersey resident Lindsay Feeley bought the former Green Lantern Inn in Fairport, they were intrigued by a section of the building that had been neglected for years. But it would have to wait.

It was May 31, 2021. The pandemic was in full swing and the historic building that dated back to somewhere between 1874 and 1876 needed some TLC.On the lower level, after some paint and a new bar, the business partners opened an intimate wine bar called Main & Vine that November. Later, it got its own kitchen. Rose said Main & Vine now reminds her of the television show Cheers, where everyone knows each other's names.

Over the next few years, they'd completely redo the 2,400-square-foot first floor ballroom, which hosts weddings and events, as well as its kitchen. They painted the entire second floor to create beautiful lounges where brides and grooms could relax. A new roof and air conditioning system were installed.

Four historic rooms used for event spaces got new carpets and light fixtures but were largely been left as is. Twin Sisters Gifts, a shop that focuses on antique, vintage and costume jewelry, opened recently.

Rose and Feeley also own an event planning company that collaborates with high-end brands all over the world. The work is, "stressful, crazy and ever changing," she said, and requires a lot of travel. Coming back to the historic building settles her, she said. The time away has kept her enthusiasm fresh for nearly constant construction projects, including an exciting project on the third floor that's led to the hardest to get reservation in town.

The intriguing third floor

The striking French Chateau style building at the corner of Main and Church streets was owned Henry DeLand until 1902. It opened as a public rooming house in 1924, during the time of Prohibition.

Its third floor was a speakeasy where people would dine and dance. When Rose and Feeling bought the mansion, remnants of that era remained, including vintage lighting and the stage where bands would play.

The coolest feature: a false wall at the back of a closet. With the push of a button, the wall would rise and a staircase would emerge that led to the third floor. Rose said the ingenious system, installed in 1924, operates with a pulley. They have found just one person who can repair it.

It takes some knowhow to make it work, she said. "It’s persnickety, that’s for sure," she said. "It's old equipment. It’s not like a modern elevator. We treat it kindly because it’s been around for so long.”

They loved the idea of renovating the former speakeasy, but when they purchased the building the third floor was rough. The floorboards had rotted and the walls had holes where you could see outside. “It had to be fixed just to make it sound," she said. "Basically I needed to make it un-animal friendly." A bathroom and sprinkler system would need to be added to comply with todays' codes.

A portion of that space has now become an intimate bar called The Blind Pig, which is what speakeasies were sometimes called in the 20s.

It initially opened only on Tuesday evenings, with reservations required. It was an immediate hit; when reservations would open up for a month, they were snapped up in as little as 70 minutes. As a result, they've added Wednesdays as well.

The bar seats 30, and its vibe blends historic and contemporary. Drinks include variations of classic cocktails from the 20s and 30s. Ruth Star, chef, creates a different menu of shareable small plates each week. Jane Munt, pastry chef, offers one dessert each week.

The owners hope to continue the third floor reservations to include a larger area that still has the original stage. Rose would like to keep it and host live entertainment. “It’s another year off,” she said.Another renovation in the works: fixing the porches, which will be used to host live music outside.

"I still walk in and I love it," Rose said. "I’m so proud of it and all we’ve accomplished.”

What to know

The Blind Pig in Fairport offers one house-made dessert each week.
The Blind Pig in Fairport offers one house-made dessert each week.

The Blind Pig is on the third floor of the DeLand House on Main, 1 East Church St. in Fairport. Steps lead to the second and third floors.

It is open by reservation only on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. The maximum group size is six. Your reservation is from 6 to 10 p.m.; you can visit any time within that time frame.

Reserve online at delandonmain.com; click on the logo for The Blind Pig. Reservations open early in the month for Tuesdays and mid-month for Wednesdays. Reservations that open up in July will be for September.

People who cannot make their reservations are asked to cancel online. As a result, if you keep checking, you might find an opening, even on the same day.

Free parking is behind the building. The space is also available for private events.

Tracy Schuhmacher covers Rochester's food and drink scene. Notice something open or close in your neighborhood? Send tips to [email protected].

This article originally appeared on Rochester Democrat and Chronicle: The Blind Pig, a historic speakeasy, opens in Fairport NY