Diageo special releases

Aside from conker fights, I tend to register the arrival of autumn when the Diageo Special Releases invite lands on the doormat. This collection of luxury and limited-edition single malt bottlings proves consistently rewarding, and always produces an essential gem for whisky enthusiasts.

For the uninitiated, the Special Releases are often cask-strength whiskies and comprise distillery favourites - this year Lagavulin and Oban – as well as exceptionally rare spirit from closed distilleries - this year Pittyvaich and grain whisky from Carsebridge.

And I can report 2018 was another good year, a stellar selection, with a good few bottles to double down on – one for drinking, one for the cellar. Those in the know are already on the case, but despite limited numbers all can still be sourced, and my picks of the bunch are:

Caol Ila 35 Year Old

This is big whisky: it delivers luxury on multiple levels, packing as much heat and smoke as there is sweetness. The stunning smoky scent is like a surprisingly pleasant punch on the nose, but if you’re wondering whether it’ll wallop you with bonfires in the chops, worry not, it makes a much more seductive play for your palate.

There’s a magic mouth feel for this whisky, incredibly smooth and rich, with moments of both dark and milk chocolate in evidence. It’s a fulfilling experience and evidence that meticulous maturation with the best whisky can always deliver a delicious dram.

￡675, Whisky Shop

Carsebridge 48 Year Old

The oldest of the collection, this comes from a distillery that closed its doors way back in 1983. Of the collection this is the only grain whisky, and it was rested in refill American oak hogheads to prevent an overpowering influence of wood. 

That said, there is a lot of oak on the nose, ancient oak at some stages, seemingly vibrant new American oak aromas at others.

The dry wood spice brilliantly sparks against some of the richer, fruit flavours of the spirits, all robust and generous. From pepper to coconut, it grinds through plenty of gears on the palate dipping into every open bud on the tongue. Proper contemplative stuff.

￡750, Whisky Shop

Cladach Blended Malt

As the Gaelic translation indicates (Cladach translates to shoreline), this is a blend of malts from coastal locations. Included in the bottle then is Caol Ila, Clynelish, Inchgower, Lagavulin, Oban and Talisker.

For those familiar with the malts, you might expect to kop a whiff of smoke on the nose and some swashbuckling salt on the tongue, but actually, both elements are relatively restrained. Soft, sweet and fruity, it’s as much rich with caramel and spice as it is savoury.

Seafarers can relax, smoke and salt are clearly messaging in the bottle, but in amongst plenty of flavour diversity, and it all comes together perfectly. A beautiful blend.

￡152, Whisky Exchange

Tom Sandham is one half of the Thinking Drinkers, award-winning drinks experts and comedians who are currently on tour, performing their critically acclaimed sell out drinking show in UK theatres. All details can be found on thinkingdrinkers.com

Sign up for the Telegraph Luxury newsletter  for your weekly dose of exquisite taste and expert opinion.