Considering Microneedling at Home? Read This First

Erin Lukas

Wed, March 22, 2017 at 5:43 PM UTC

6 min read

<p>LaylaBird / Getty Images</p> — LaylaBird / Getty Images

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The concept of microneedling — an in-office skin care treatment that involves puncturing the face with tiny needles — is intimidating in and of itself. So DIY-ing the procedure at home understandably seems terrifying. However, with the right tools and know-how, microneedling at home can be a cost-effective way to land smoother, firmer skin. To find out exactly how to microneedle at home and determine which dermaroller best addresses your skin concerns, we turned to esthetician Jordana Mattioli for her expert insight.

Meet Our Expert

Jordana Mattioli is a licensed esthetician at CompleteSkinMD in New York City.

Keep reading for our complete guide to microneedling at home.

What Is Microneedling?

Microneedling is a cosmetic procedure that can be performed at home or in-office by a medical professional. It involves using a handheld device to pierce the skin with tiny holes to improve its texture and address an array of skin conditions and concerns.

Benefits of Microneedling

Stimulates collagen production: The needles of your microneedling device will penetrate just deep enough to stimulate your skin's epidermal growth factors to boost collagen, says Mattioli. This is what makes microneedling such an effective method of minimizing acne scars and signs of aging, like fine lines and wrinkles.
Improves efficacy of skincare products: Microneedling can help the topical skin care products you apply after using your dermaroller penetrate deeper for enhanced results. "These tiny punctures [from a dermaroller] allow skincare ingredients to penetrate faster than they would on their own, therefore making changes in your skin faster," explains Mattioli.
Boosts hydration: Microneedling essentially kickstarts the skin's natural healing process, increasing levels of elastin and hyaluronic acid, and thereby improving skin's radiance.

Microneedling at Home vs. In Office

While in-office treatments are usually done with an electric or battery-operated device that can resemble a traditional roller or pen, at-home microneedling is most commonly performed with manual dermarollers. The main difference between an esthetician or dermatologist performing the procedure versus doing it yourself is that the professional version will use longer needles that go much deeper into the skin to treat acne scars, wrinkles, and other skin damage.

"The at-home microneedling rollers simply get rolled onto the skin. There are tiny needles that make punctures on the skin, but the at-home versions will just get your skin a little pink. They aren't deep enough where you'll see blood droplets," says Mattioli. "At-home microneedling with a roller isn't going deep enough to treat deep scars or deep wrinkles, but they will absolutely improve the texture of skin and make those deep wrinkles or scars look a little better."

How to Choose a Dermaroller

A foolproof way to purchase the right dermaroller for your skincare needs is to first consult your esthetician or dermatologist for their recommendations on needle length and ask for a quick tutorial on how to use it. Mattioli tells us that her favorite dermarollers are from Environ, one of the first brands to make these devices available for at-home use.

To ensure you won't break or tear the skin, Mattioli recommends sticking with rollers that have needles that are either .2 millimeters, .25 millimeters, or .3 millimeters. "Never go over .3 millimeters for the face," she stresses.

Tips

If you can't talk to a medical professional, Mattioli suggests researching brands, reading reviews, and choosing the correct needle length. Don't settle on a deal to save money because you won't always end up with a quality dermaroller.

How to Use a Microneedling Device

After you've cleansed and applied your serum of choice to your skin, apply gentle pressure to roll the microneedler over your skin vertically, horizontally, and diagonally. "You should do two to four passes vertically, followed by two to four rolls horizontally on the same section. Then, move on to the next area," Mattioli instructs.

Next, apply a second layer of serum (it can be the same one you used pre-rolling or a different product). Once you've covered your entire face, she recommended waiting a few minutes before applying other creams or lotions. Remember: since microneedling enhances product absorption, it's best to use caution when applying certain active ingredients like alpha hydroxy acids or retinols because they can irritate the skin.

Mattioli suggests microneedling at night since your skin will get a little pink from the treatment. Also, start off using a dermaroller once a week and work your way up to three to five times a week over time.

Risks and Side Effects

When done properly, microneedling at home does not generally pose any risks. It is normal for skin to feel sensitive and appear pink after using a dermaroller. However, if you experience prolonged redness or pain, contact your doctor right away.

Also, while you can use a dermaroller or a microneedling pen on all skin types and tones, Mattioli stresses that you should never use one if you have active acne, extremely sensitive skin, rosacea, cold sores, or cuts.

Our Favorite Microneedling Products

Ora Microneedle Face & Full Body Roller Kit ($90)

For a full-body microneedling experience, this five-piece kit is your best bet. It includes different-sized attachments for small spots like the under eyes and large areas like the stomach.

Beautybio Glopro Microneedling Regeneration Tool ($199)

It's the microneedler you've seen all over Instagram, but this fan-favorite micro-exfoliation tool lives up to the hype. It was actually made by the inventor and patent holder of microneedling technology. On top of minimizing fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, and uneven skin texture, it has a built-in LED red light and vibration feature that helps speed up the skin's regeneration process so you see results faster.

Nurse Jamie Beauty Stamp ($50)

Instead of rolling this tool, you gently stamp it on your face. The 0.2-millimeter needles leave teeny-tiny pricks in your skin, which sets the outermost layer of your skin into repair mode and leaves you with a firmer, smoother complexion. Bonus: Your favorite serums will penetrate the skin deeper.

Ora Face Microneedle Dermal Roller System 0.5mm ($38)

Consider this simple but effective dermaroller your microneedling device with training wheels. The small needles painlessly prick skin to boost collagen and elastin to tighten skin and even out tone.

Frequently Asked Questions

When should you replace your dermaroller?

"Replace the roller every month if you are using it frequently," advises Mattioli. "Your first roller will last about three months, but if you're using it a few times a week you'll want to get a new one every month since the needles will get dull."

Can you microneedle your body?

Yes, microneedling is most popular on the face but it can also be done anywhere on the body where you want to improve skin texture. For example, you may want to microneedle stretch marks on your stomach or legs.

What's the best way to clean a dermaroller?

Once you're done using your dermaroller, sterilize it in alcohol or specialized cleaner for three to five minutes and let it air-dry before storing it back in its container.

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