Chanel celebrates the spirit of the lion for its haute couture collection

Gabrielle Chanel, a Leo, had a thing for lions: a bronze sculpture of one, its paw resting lightly on a ball, sat on the mantlepiece at her Rue Cambon apartment.

A replica of that sculpture cast in gold and rock crystal, the ball now a discreet clock, is one of the stars of Chanel’s latest high jewellery collection.

It’s not the first time the house has used the big cat as inspiration. In 2013, Chanel presented the Sous le Signe du Lion collection, focusing on the spiritual side of the Leo sign, its regal face appearing in sculpted quartz and lapis lazuli alongside stars and byzantine motifs.

This year’s range, I’m told, instead takes its cues from the “personality” of the lion – its strength and power, which made it a frequent muse for Mademoiselle Chanel.

The lion itself is all brawn and the jewels are similarly bold – with an undeniable Eighties vibe. Chunky, masculine chains, enormous cocktail rings and chest-spanning necklaces are all adorned with the sinewy beast depicted in diamonds and a warm palette of yellow, oranges and browns.

He sits atop a stick pin; prowls in profile across a watch face; keeps guard of a 29.65-carat orange topaz, from which falls a detachable waterfall of multicoloured sapphires.

He toys with his diamond ball – daring you to just try to take it – on brooches, bracelets and even a belt, where he dangles alongside a pear-cut topaz at the end of an almost utilitarian gold chain that can be wrapped around neck or waist.

Elsewhere his face clasps together neat rows of Japanese cultured pearls, yellow-gold chains and orange sapphires, or is framed by a mane of flame-coloured beryl.

These are not the usual high jewellery stones, but Chanel has never been afraid to veer away from the big four (diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds). Its clients are more interested in the design than any intrinsic value of the gems.

But that’s not to say there aren’t major stones: the lion is proudest of all sitting above a 30.19-carat Fancy Intense yellow diamond in the aptly named Legendary necklace, where without a sound he roars.