How to Buy a Bonus Watch (Without Offending the Whole Office)
We are going to tell you to spend at least $7,500, to go with timeless style, to avoid “wannabe watches,” and even to drop your company’s name at Rolex boutiques. But, before we get into all that, we must first warn you that while choosing a bonus watch should be a simple gift to yourself free of workplace stresses, making this decision will likely find you wrestling with a snarl of difficult considerations.
Not only is there the challenge of figuring out which watch you want (and whether you can even get your hands on it), but you’ll likely also find yourself navigating other people’s opinions about which watch you should buy with your bonus.
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Here’s the problem: Once that new watch is on your wrist in public, it will start broadcasting messages on your behalf. Some watch enthusiasts call this your “wrist flex,” while sociologists would call it “social signaling.” As psychologist Dr. Christian Jarrett writes in an essay entitled The Psychology of Stuff and Things (2013), “Our possessions become extensions of the self.”
Within the corporate world, managing the social signals beaming off that new bonus watch will require some nuance—and even confidence—on your part. As Jarret notes, “How much we see our things as an extension of ourselves may depend in part on how confident we feel about who we are…[because]…like a uniform, our possessions of specific objects and brands can also signal our membership of social groups, both to others and to ourselves.”
To the broader public, your new watch will broadcast your taste, your wealth, and your access to luxury goods (especially with Rolex, but also Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and others). At work, that watch may signal where you think you stand—or aspire to stand—within the company hierarchy. People may even try to estimate the size of your bonus, your personal wealth, your family’s wealth, your social pedigree, and so on just by glancing at your new watch.
I spoke to a collector who’s now a high-level manager at General Electric. He told me that, upon starting his job, he did not wear his Rolex GMT or Submariner to work. Instead, he sported his Tudor Black Bay 58 because it “flew under the radar,” guaranteed not to upset the C-suite. He finally asked a more tenured colleague about watch choices, and was told, “You definitely don’t want to outdo our boss’s watch.”
Now that he’s further up the ladder, he wears his Rolexes daily. But he’s wearing slightly older steel models, not the impossible-to-get current steel models or the more expensive precious metal Rollies, which are a much stronger “wrist flex.” This hierarchy of Rolex models aligns with the hierarchy at G.E. through what he calls “unspoken rules.” He goes on to say, “It’s partly about not outdoing your higher-ups, but also not signaling that they’re paying you too much.”
That second point came up in a conversation with a systems consultant and watch collector working for “one of the largest financial institutions in Europe” (in addition to anonymity, he requested that we not mention the company’s name). This executive said that another consultant pulled up to the office in a Ferrari 360 one day and was fired on the spot. The reason? “Our bosses concluded that they were obviously paying him way too much,” and it was an issue that, “the Ferrari was visible to approximately 30 percent of employees. Within a few hours, everyone was aware of it.” A red Ferrari is conspicuous, but could the same thing happen with, say, a solid gold Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar? He says yes. “A big showy watch can be a liability [at work], especially when working with clients.”
Indeed, it’s a potentially sensitive thing, this new watch of yours. And once you’ve got your head around those workplace social dynamics and know how big a wrist flex you’re aiming for, you still need to figure out what you want to buy.
Here’s how to go about it.
Spend at Least $7,500 on Steel (More on Precious Metal)
So, how big was that bonus, exactly? And how much of it do you want to drop on this watch? Only you can answer those questions, but it’s generally accepted that stainless steel “luxury watches” begin around the $7,500 mark these days. (I would have said $5000 just a few years ago, but—despite a sagging watch market—the price of new watches has gone up.) Precious metal cases add many thousands to the price, and precious metal bracelets add more still.
For steel watches, right around that $7,500 mark, you’ll get fine case finishing, an excellent dial and handset, interesting mechanical movements (usually proprietary or “in-house” machines), as well as greater precision and durability. You’ll notice diminishing returns as you approach and surpass the $15,000 mark—unless, of course, you’re going for a precious metal watch. (However, if you have more to spend, the advice below will still apply.)
As for brands, many offer excellent steel watches that cover this price range, including Zenith, Breitling, Rolex, Omega, TAG Heuer (which is going up-market lately), IWC, and Grand Seiko, to name just a few. If you want to go a little further afield in style, consider Panerai, Glashutte Original, Ulysse Nardin, and Bulgari. (We will discuss the rigors of getting a Rolex at retail below, and suggest some specific bonus-related strategies there, as well.)
Go for Timeless Style
This is a watch you’re going to own and wear for a long time, to remember that moment in your career when things started looking up. Avoid trends and try to get a watch that’s classically styled. It will be more versatile. It will stay in style for decades. You’ll be less tempted to flip it.
How do you know what’s classic and timeless? Choose a watch model that’s been around for a long time. Whether it’s a dress watch, a sport watch, or something in between, there are many models that have been around for so long that they’re perennially in style.
Just to give a few examples: Rolex has hardly invented a new watch since the 1950s. The Datejust was introduced in 1945, the Submariner in 1954, and its classic watches have only changed incrementally since then. Omega has been making the Seamaster divers and the Speedmaster chronographs since the mid-20th century, and the modern versions maintain the essence of the originals. If you’re into pilot’s watches, go with IWC. If you want a rectangular dress watch, get a Cartier Tank. In other words, go to the brand that is known for a classic within the genre, and you can’t lose.
For colors, consider going with something versatile and classic. Pale green dials are in right now—and they’re lovely—but how’s that going to look in five or 10 years? Black, silver, and white dials will never go out of style, and they’ll pair with everything.
Keep it classic, and this bonus watch will be with you throughout your life. Should you find yourself with children and grandchildren one day, this watch can become a family heirloom. You may end up saying: “I bought this way back in 2024, after the great pandemic, when I got a bonus for doing well at my job.” That’s a classic moment, and so the watch should also be classic.
Avoid a ‘Wannabe Watch’
A “wannabe watch” is a watch that tries to imitate another iconic watch. There are a surprising number of them out there, and while some are rather excellent watches, time and time again I’ve seen people “trade up” to the real thing eventually. This is important if you want this watch to stand as a commemoration of this bonus. You don’t want to end up flipping your bonus watch. Think decades ahead.
This tip is subtle, so let’s clarify it. Yes, most wannabe watches are classically styled, precisely because they imitate the classics, but only the original is going to be and remain a true classic. You won’t flip a classic, because there’s no better—or “more authentic”— option.
Sometimes this advice means sacrificing a certain style. You may not have enough dough from your bonus to go and buy an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or a Patek Philippe Nautilus. (But if you do, those are nice choices, and congrats on that fat bonus!) Rather than buying one of the many watches that imitate those timeless classics, go for something that is itself a timeless classic. An Omega Speedmaster is timless, and so is a Rolex Submariner, an IWC pilot’s watch, a Zenith chronograph, and so on.
Drop Your Company’s Name at Rolex Boutiques
If you absolutely must get a Rolex at retail, you may want to use your bonus to move up the now-mandatory waiting list at all Rolex-authorized dealerships.
If you’re with a top company—especially one ranked in the Fortune Top 30—or if you work for a major law firm, for example, you may find that salespeople at Rolex (as well as Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet) perk up a bit.
Fortunately, you might not have to make the point yourself. Every time I walk into a Manhattan Rolex boutique to browse, the salesperson soon asks, “Do you work in the neighborhood?” As a journalist, I tend to dodge the follow-up questions, but they usually ask about what you do and which company you work for. They’re profiling you on behalf of Rolex, and if you’ve earned the bona fides, use them.
But to get any Rolex right now, you’re going to do much better going for a recent model on the pre-owned market. Certified Pre-Owned is a good way to go, but you may also want to consider independent sellers. Now is a good time to get a Rolex, and we have you covered on how to buy your first one. You may also find our video on how to buy a vintage watch helpful as you seek out your bonus watch.
Happy hunting, and congrats on that bonus!
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