Block Island is your moment of zen: Here's where to eat, drink and stay
It never ceases to amaze me how easy it is to get to Block Island and how wonderful it is to be there. It's like another world, but it's so close and attainable.
Block Island was described as "the closest faraway place we know" by one of my Journal colleagues. It's a day trip that feels like a vacation.
I'll admit, it could seem stressful to go online and commit to reserving your spot on the Block Island Ferry. Then you have to drive to Galilee. But really, neither part is that challenging once you do it.
There are plenty of nearby parking lots to leave your car and walk to the ferry. No shuttles needed. It's an easy option you don't find everywhere.
An hour aboard the ferry offers the wind in your face and great views as you approach Block Island. But the 30 minutes aboard the high-speed ferry is a pretty sweet ride to cover the 12 miles from Galilee.
Am I worried about my safety on the ferry coming or going? Not at all. I saw police details on each end watching the crowd.
The second you step off the boat to the Old Harbor, you feel the difference in the air. It just smells fresh. Your mind adjusts and your moments of zen commence. You're not negotiating traffic on I-95 or Route 4 anymore.
Right there is a cluster of buildings offering ice cream, drinks, lunch, art galleries and shopping. The National Hotel looms large as the Victorian hotel in the heart of downtown. It's the most congested part of the island and it really isn't.
You can walk to anything you need from hotels, bed and breakfast inns, restaurants and shops. You can bike, the most popular mode of transportation if hills don't bother you. Or you can rent a car and drive the 10 square miles of the island end to end. You can even take a taxi.
There are no bad choices here. Eat, drink, bike, explore nature, sit and look at the sea.
Dining
When I had lunch at Ballard's Beach Resort, all I cared about was how good the food and drink was. And it was darn good. It wasn't a beach day, rather it was windy and sunny. But sitting there as the waves crashed on the sand, and I sipped a Lemon Drop cocktail, I felt like I was in a world far, far away.
I think executive chef Nhlanhla Malamba is not just talented but something of a miracle worker. He and his kitchen serve an average of 1,300 meals most days during the summer. Imagine it.
Yet, he has created the most delicate Clam Chowder with finely diced clams and veggies. "It's all in the prep," he told me. He was trained in his native South Africa and has been bringing his signature dishes to Ballard's for several summers now.
Not to be missed is Pineapple Chicken served dramatically in a pineapple boat with coconut rice. Malamba offers five kinds of lobster rolls from a naked version to traditional to a grilled cheese with cheddar and fontina. He was making the desserts, including a lovely carrot cake, until his pastry chef arrived from South Africa.
You can go back in time for lunch or dinner at the landmark Spring House Hotel, built in 1852. The wrap-around veranda and Adirondack chairs harken to simpler summers when the sea was your video screen. You can also dine in The Barn restaurant, their rustic setting, from Tuesday through Sunday.
The menu is classic here, which guarantees something for everyone. You can enjoy a flatbread pizza, a fine piece of fish, a steak or a bowl of pasta. Don't skip dessert, which includes key lime pie. Classic cocktails are on the menu and the wine list is lovely with many by-the-glass choices.
You dine at booths with high leather backs, a variety of tables or at the lovely bar that generates energy for the large dining room. Service is stellar.
For breakfast, you can get a perfect breakfast sandwich on a bagel at The Old Post Office Bagel, the busy shop at 123 Ocean Ave. Grab it and hit the day running.
For a more farm-to-table experience, there's Persephone's Kitchen, 235 Dodge St. You can get your kombucha or nitro cold brew or espresso drink. They have egg dishes, vegan eggs, a daily frittata, yogurt bowls and smoothies. If you are into toasts, this place is for you. They also serve lunch.
Want to grab a sandwich before you bike? Make your stop at Three Sisters. They don't open until 11 or 11:30 a.m. depending on the time of the season. Have dessert first with one of their great chocolate chip cookies.
Touring
To plan your activities you can download the Block Island app. It's an easy-to-use guide to the island. You can also go online at blockislandinfo.com.
What you'll find are many outdoorsy pursuits, including biking, hiking, horseback riding and boating. There are trails and rentals to make it all happen. You can also go fishing or, maybe, birding. Head to Clay Head Trail, a 3.5-mile route with views and the opportunity to spot various bird species.
If you want to explore the history of the island, a good place to start is the Block Island Historical Society Museum. Find it in a building with a front porch and a red mansard roof at 18 Old Town Rd. You can explore their exhibits or sign up for one of their programs.
Don't miss the view from the Mohegan Bluffs, which look out to the tip of Long Island. The Bluffs beach is also a favorite swimming spot, if you don't mind hiking down the 141 wooden steps to the beach. (Note: The stairs have since been closed due to erosion.)
Less work is the Frederick J. Benson Pavilion, the "Town Beach," located at the heart of Crescent Beach. Crescent Beach stretches along the Island's east coast from Old Harbor to Clay Head.
The Southeast Lighthouse is a National Historic Landmark. You can do a tour and see museum exhibits for a charge or go to the gift shop for free.
Staying
Many people do day trips, and I have as well. But if you can afford to spend the night, it's pretty relaxing.
I've stayed at Hotel Manisses, an updated boutique hotel, and had brunch at the 1661 Inn, where they also have cozy accommodations. Both were wonderful and an easy walk from town. I thought I might go old-school for my most recent trip just before Memorial Day and stay at the regal Spring House Hotel. But it was totally booked for a wedding. I think that's common on Block Island.
It all worked out because I then looked for a beach view and found the perfect B&B for me, the Avonlea. I chose the Amethyst room on the second floor. I didn't use it but a soaking tub was almost as big as the bed. I opted for the large walk-in shower. The rooms are small but beautifully appointed.
The views are epic here because you are virtually on the beach. We had our own deck and there was a common one, too. Adirondack chairs on a patio offered spots to read, feel the breezes and watch the waves. Then steps away was the beach. I loved hearing the waves crash while I fell asleep.
I liked the smallness of it. It felt homey in the best sense of the word. The Avonlea is part of the Block Island Inns group. They also have the nearby Blue Dory B&B, Whitestone Cottage and other cottage and suites.
Saying goodbye
If you love people-watching, sit in front of the Chamber of Commerce and watch the next ferry fill up, or the previous one arrive.
I saw a crane loaded on the ferry to head back to the mainland. That was something. There were all the food trucks that had delivered the fresh ingredients to restaurants first thing in the morning. At least that's what I imagined.
There were pickups with family reunions and rushed drop-offs. But it seemed everyone was smiling. I think Block Island does that to you.
This article originally appeared on The Providence Journal: Block Island is the perfect destination for a day or a weekend in RI