The best Rh?ne reds for under ￡10
On the cusp of autumn, as a cool summer turns into a warmer early September, I’m definitely turning to Rh?ne Valley reds from south-east France. Why? Because they are versatile enough to cope with a week or two when we won’t know from one day to the next whether to fire up the barbecue or hunker down indoors, starting the new season’s slow-cooked braises and casseroles.
They should cover most occasions now: inexpensive Rh?nes, by which I mean under ￡10, can range from relatively easy-drinking, fruity and almost chillable (for the last of the summer parties – see my first choice, below), through spicy and peppery with structured tannins (think grilled red meats) to mellow, savoury and soft (just right for that casserole…).
Quality varies considerably from the catch-all appellation C?tes du Rh?ne, which can be sourced through the widest area of the Rh?ne from Vienne in the north to Avignon in the south, and also in the supposedly higher quality C?tes du Rh?ne Villages, where a more select 95 communes deliver the grapes to stricter regulations. Most are a blend of grenache, syrah with mourvèdre, carignan and cinsault providing back-up. Expect some wines to be oak-aged for extra notes of woodspice, vanilla and pepper, with others unoaked, which should in theory let juicy fruit shine through.
I set out to find the best wines from the region for under a tenner – that of course ruled out the famous Rh?nes from the appellations of Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the southern Rh?ne and C?te-R?tie, Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage in the north Rh?ne. And plenty of other candidates. But I still came up with an impressive set of recommendations here. It’s a diverse group, but each represents good value for money in its own individual way, providing a Rh?ne ranger for every moment in September.
Try these...
Palais St Vigni C?tes du Rh?ne 2021, France
(13.5%, Tesco, ￡5.49)
A relatively simple C?tes du Rh?ne without great depth of flavour, but this gets my vote as an enjoyable party red for its fresh, bright fruit. It’s a compote of redcurrants, strawberries and mulberries with a juicy finish – a lively version to pour on its own or with classic buffet food, for just over a fiver. Takes to a short spell in the fridge, too.
M&S C?tes du Rh?ne Villages 2021, France
(13.5%, Marks & Spencer, ￡11, down to ￡7.35 until September 11)
Tempting offer on a decent all-rounder. Made from 60 per cent grenache and 40 per cent syrah by the huge Castel-Frères group in conjunction with M&S, it delivers blackberries, black pepper and a smidge of sweet toffee – definitely edging towards autumnal flavours, and great with bangers and mash with slow-fried onions.
Rive Droite Rive Gauche 2021, C?tes du Rh?ne, France
(14.5%, The Wine Society, ￡8.75)
Savoury tannins and ripe black cherries with a note of liquorice prevail in this blend of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre and the ABV is relatively high, but the wine has balance with a fresh, lifted finish. I’d decant this for lamb chops spiked with rosemary and garlic slices, barbecued if the weather allows. Its name tells us the grapes were sourced from both banks of the Rh?ne river.
Famille Perrin La Montagne Perdue Ventoux 2022, France
(14%, Majestic, ￡9.99 or ￡8.99 as part of mixed six bottles)
Super value for a satisfyingly complex Ventoux made by the family best-known for Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape. The vines – grenache, carignan, cinsault and syrah - grow on the relatively high altitude, thus cooler, slopes of Mount Ventoux. The result is a beautifully smooth yet complex red, rich with blackberry and cassis, spread with black olive tapenade and sprinkled with pepper and salt. The cheeseboard calls…
La Grange St Martin C?tes du Rh?ne 2017, France
(14%, Co-op, ￡9.65)
More mellow maturity here in a six-year-old Rh?ne with soft blackcurrants, savoury hints and a concentrated, somewhat tannic but rounded finish. A wine that needs food - make it a slow-cooked beef casserole on a cooler early autumn night. (Do check that you buy the 2017 vintage as the Co-op has younger releases coming soon, which I haven’t tasted yet.)
