Barcelona attractions: what to see and do in summer
Why go?
Summer in Barcelona – though humid – is not as blisteringly hot as other Spanish cities. Between late July and early September, most locals with the means leave town, which makes for a quiet, traffic-free experience.
Barcelona combines everything that is most charming about Mediterranean cities – a relaxed pace, months of endless sunshine, unbeatable food – with the cultural and design clout of most any city in the cold north.
Don’t arrive with too much of an agenda: sure, if you’re a Bar?a fan you might find the stadium tour unmissable; if you love art you’ll want to check out the Picasso Museum and maybe the MACBA, but the real pleasure of Barcelona is in the wandering about, so allow plenty of time for simply mooching.
The Forum Building in Barcelona
Summer attractions and day trips
Parc de la Ciutadella
Barcelona’s most beautiful park holds a boating lake, playgrounds, a waterfall and the city zoo. It’s always thronged with people, but a wonderfully relaxed place nonetheless.
Contact 00 34 93 413 24 00
My hotel pick: Chic&Basic Born hotel. This bright, upbeat hotel is set nearly in front of the gates to Parc de la Ciutadella.
Parc de la Ciutadella
Park Güell
Gaudí designed this surreal park, originally intended to be a ‘garden city’ where the workers could live. It’s an extraordinary place, with buildings that seem straight out of Hansel and Gretel, and the famous, sinuous tiled bench that winds around an esplanade with a view across the entire city.
Contact 00 34 93 219 38 11
Barceloneta beach
The city beaches are not entirely natural, and were only really created - with sand dredged from the sea bed, and palm trees imported from Malaga - around the time of the 1992 Olympics, before which Barcelona was said to "turn its back on the sea". The result is 7km of sand which get quieter the further you get down towards the Forum. The liveliest is the Platja de Barceloneta, marked by Rebecca Horn's tower of rusty cubes, Estel Ferit (Wounded Shooting Star).
La Rambla
A long boulevard running from Pla?a Catalunya to the sea, La Rambla is mostly pedestrianised, and is flanked with handsome buildings (and, admittedly, some fairly ropey tourist-trap restaurants). Look for Joan Miró’s pavement mosaic halfway along, and be sure to stop at the Boqueria market for a coffee or some tapas.
My hotel pick: Hotel Espa?a. Located yards from La Rambla, this latest addition to the Barcelona hotel scene is a sensitive revamp of a classic Modernista building.
La Rambla
Montserrat
Seen as the cradle of Catalunya’s independent spirit, this venerated monastery sits atop a mountain of the same name. Its famed boys’ choir sings mass around 1pm every day, and although the monastery itself is not one of Spain’s most attractive, there are some lovely walks to be had around it. Reach it by cable car (from Montserrat-Aeri station) or cog-wheel railway (from Monistrol de Montserrat station).
Sitges
Just a 40-minute train ride down the coast from the Estació de Fran?a in Barcelona, Sitges is known as Catalunya’s party town and certainly sees hordes of tourists in the summer, but has still managed to preserve its pretty, whitewashed core, ablaze with geraniums.
Its various beaches (some of them nudist, and most of them gay) are a lot cleaner than Barcelona’s, or you can get off the train a stop earlier at Garraf, a lovely and peaceful bay lined with stripey beach huts. A picnic is generally the best way to go here, though there are some basic eating options.
Festivals and events
Primavera Sound Festival - May 29 to 31
Fast catching up with big sister Sónar in terms of numbers and popularity, Primavera Sound is the city’s celebration of pop, rock and – above all – all things indie. This five-day affair, held at the Fòrum area in the north of the city, will include Arcade Fire, The National, Pixies, St Vincent, Disclosure, Caetano Veloso and a great selection of other bands from the past and present in 2014. Weekend passes are €195.
The Dancing Egg - Mid June
‘L’Ou Com Balla’ is one of Barcelona’s most charming annual events, and takes place for a few days around Corpus Christi (June 19 in 2014). Various church cloisters and patios of some especially lovely buildings (open to the public for the occasion) are garlanded with flowers, and particularly their fountains, where a hollowed-out egg dances endlessly on a high spout of water.
See www.bcn.cat
Sónar Festival - June 12 to 14
The legendary International Festival of Advanced Music and New Media Art runs for three days over two main venues: the trade fair grounds at Pla?a Espanya in Barcelona and a string of hangar-like spaces out in L’Hospitalet, on the outskirts of the city. The 2014 festival is to feature Massive Attack, Skrillex, Four Tet, Caribou, Richie Hawtin and Bonobo, along with a host of smaller bands and lesser-known DJs.
See www.sonar.es
My hotel pick: Hotel Pulitzer. It's a cheap hotel in a vibrant location not far from the Pla?a Espanya
The CCCB
Sant Joan - June 23 to 24
The feast of St John is the big party night of the year, when vast quantities of cava are consumed, bonfires are lit (illegally) on the streets and beach, and fireworks fill the night sky all the way through to dawn. The 24th is a public holiday and possibly the quietest day of the year.
Festival de Pedralbes - June 12 to July 10
The Festival de Pedralbes arrived on the city’s cultural scene with a bang and will this year feature big names covering a host of styles. Whether it's Carla Bruni who rocks your boat, Tom Jones, or even Kevin Costner - there is something here for everyone. Concerts are held on a specially made stage in the bosky gardens of the Palau Reial in the uptown area of Barcelona.
La Diada - September 11
The Catalan National Day has been celebrated with increased fervour as the independence movement picks up momentum. Expect marches, demos and free concerts in the streets, but avoid trouble spots – Pla?a Catalunya and the Via Laietana are often scenes of scuffles with the police.
The Barri Gotic Quarter in Pla?a Sant Jaume
My hotel pick: Catalonia Portal de l’Angel. This is a very central, cheap hotel with a sweeping marble staircase and a large garden area.
More summer events in Barcelona
Música als Parcs - June to August
These free outdoor concerts are held in Barcelona's parks throughout the summer. Jazz concerts are run at Parc de la Ciutadella in June (Wednesdays and Fridays at 10pm), while a varied classical programme runs from Thursdays to Saturdays throughout July at different parks.
San Miguel Mas i Mas Festival - late July to early September
This music festival hosts concerts throughout the summer at seven different venues across the city, covering a range of musical genres, from classical, jazz and flamenco to pop, rock and soul. Jeff Beck opens proceedings with a concert at the Poble Espanyol on July 10.
Sala Montju?c - July 6 to August 8
An outdoor cinema series is held at the Montju?c Castle, accompanied by a live jazz band. Visitors can enjoy a picnic on the grassy grounds of the castle as well as a free bus service from Espanya metro station before and after the film. This year's films include Blue Jasmine and Breakfast at Tiffany's.
Montju?c Castle
Montju?c de Nit - July 14
For one night only, this festival offers a selection of free entertainment from dusk to dawn in the Montju?c area, from music, theatre and dance to film, art and museums which stay open until about 3am.
See www.bcn.cat/cultura/montjuicnit
Additional listings by Natalie Paris
Read our complete expert guide, featuring the best hotels, attractions, restaurants, bars and shops, chosen by Sally Davies.
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About Sally Davies
Sally Davies writes on Spanish food and culture for several other guidebooks, magazines and newspapers, including The Daily Telegraph and Wallpaper.