From bacterial infections to skin cancer, gel manicures may be riskier than you thought. Here's what to know.
For nail art that lasts longer than standard polish, many people are choosing gel manicures, in which gel polish is cured under an ultraviolet (UV) light. They can last for up to two weeks and, unlike with traditional nail polish, maintain their glossy look the whole time — a major win for people who don’t want to make frequent trips to the salon for a fresh coat.
Unfortunately, gel manicures don't only deliver cute, durable nails, but also an array of health risks, according to experts. Here’s what you need to know.
Fungal and bacterial infections
The last thing anyone wants to think about when getting pampered at a salon is the risk of infection, but unfortunately, it’s a possibility with any type of manicure.
Dr. Maral Kibarian Skelsey, director of the Dermatologic Surgery Center in Chevy Chase, Md., tells Yahoo Life that “improperly cleaned instruments as well as the foot baths can be the source of infection.”
Other sources, says Dr. Shari Lipner, associate professor of clinical dermatology and director of the Nail Division at Weill Cornell Department of Dermatology in New York, include cuticle cutting and pushing, both of which "leave spaces in the nail for microorganisms to get in," which can lead to "paronychias, which are bacterial infections, as well as warts and fungal infections."
Plus, she adds, "Gel manicures also make you more prone to getting water trapped under the nail, and this is the perfect breeding ground for bacteria."
While all types of manicures put you at risk for infection, Skelsey notes that gel manicures have an additional risk because it may create a situation in which it's harder to detect something is wrong.
"Gel manicures are long-lasting, so infections in the nail may not be detected [since they] might not be evident under the polish," she explains. "Other nail abnormalities, such as a dark streak or new growth" — which are possible signs of infections or even melanoma — "may also be detected late if you don’t look at unpolished nails between manicures."
Cancer risks
In order to cure, or harden, gel polish, a UV lamp is used — and a recent study published in Nature found that radiation from these lamps can cause mutations in cells that are linked to skin cancer.
“Both melanoma, the most serious skin cancer, and non-melanoma skin cancers, such as basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma, increase in frequency after ultraviolet light exposure,” says Skelsey.
Still, some have interpreted the recent findings — which add to a "small, growing body of research" about regular use of UV nail lamps connected with aging and cancer risk — as inconclusive regarding cancer, damage to skin cells aside.
Allergies
One major concern with gel manicures is the risk of skin coming into contact with uncured gel, which contains chemicals.
"The methacrylates in manicures that are not 'set,' or fully polymerized, can cause a contact allergy on exposed skin," explains Skelsey. "Repeated exposure of the wet or uncured gel or dust filings to the skin has resulted in significant allergic reactions that can be lifelong and that would prevent someone from using nail products in the future."
It’s not just nail products you'd have to stay away from, either: Methacrylates can also be used for dental work, as well as knee and hip replacements, so developing an allergy can cause issues down the road outside of just your manicure.
“Under-curing can occur if nail polish is applied too heavily, as the UV light cannot penetrate through the layers for complete polymerization,” Skelsey explains.
Nail technicians are also at risk themselves, she notes — especially if they touch wet nails to check if they are “set,” or are exposed to filings from uncured nails.
The takeaway
If you do choose to get a gel manicure, it’s important to be aware of the risks and do what you can to prevent damage:
To avoid exposure to UV light, Skelsey suggests covering your hands in a zinc or titanium oxide-containing sunscreen, which works immediately. (Chemical sunscreens, she notes, take 15 to 20 minutes to start working.) You can also wear fingerless, UV-protective gloves to reduce your risk.
You can also bring your own equipment to your nail appointment, says Lipner. Just make sure to clean your tools "thoroughly each time to lessen your chances of getting an infection," she says.
While at-home gel manicure kits do exist, it's safer to avoid them, as those who use them do not have the expertise of a professional and can put themselves at risk for developing allergies from uncured gel. Still, Skelsey warns that “insufficient curing occurs both with at-home kits and in nail salons.”
While gel manicures may be convenient, Lipner says that regular polish manicures come with a lower risk. And Skelsey adds that taking a “polish holiday” — going a few weeks au naturel — can also limit issues. Fortunately, the naked nail trend is thriving!
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