It's time to reconsider the humble cardigan- here's how to wear one now

It’s easy to misjudge the start of cashmere jumper season. Arriving back in London from the 28-degree heat of Milan Fashion Week last Sunday evening, I thought it was time. Cut to midday on Monday: not cashmere jumper weather after all. Or rather, not between the hours of 11am and 4pm, but distinctly chilly either side.

After that false start I found myself considering a cardigan. I’ve ruled them out in the past because: bosom. That is, having one makes cardigans treacherous fashion ground. So easy to look frumpy in a cardi that’s pulling at the buttons or, worse, sturdy in one worn open.

Purple, ￡199, Whistles; navy, ￡175, Arket; patterned, ￡85, & Other Stories

Still, spending five hours a day a bit sweaty, or the rest cold, didn’t seem great alternatives, and fabulous cardigans on the catwalk at Gucci and Miu Miu called to me, though they were miles out of my price range.

The knack, I think, is to wear them large. No gaping buttons, and hopefully a projection of threw-this-on insouciance (though that’s a lot to ask from a cardigan). I started with a cashmere crew-neck from Marks & Spencer; I’d usually buy a 12, but instead went for a 16. It comes in 15 colours, and I chose the bright red: better “fun librarian” than “dour librarian”, and it’s an easy way to brighten up my winter wardrobe. Style it as you would a shirt: as it’s oversized, try tucked into jeans with the top few buttons undone and nothing underneath. I buy cashmere from M&S each year as it wears so well, and bobbles less than pricier options I’ve tried.

Over dresses and skirts, look for something a bit longer, roughly the same length as a blazer, and V-neck, as you’ll mostly wear it open. Vince and Madeleine Thompson, though expensive, have great quality knits. Iris & Ink has some good neutral cashmere options, and Uniqlo’s ribbed wool cardi-coat (￡34.90, uniqlo.com) comes in dark bottle green, brown, and two shades of grey. If you like to emphasise your waist, look for a dressing-gown style with a matching belt – & Other Stories and Whistles have lovely printed options. Arket’s dark-blue knitted utility jacket/cardi hybrid is more versatile than a cotton jacket, as you won’t feel strange keeping it on at your desk or dinner if you need the extra layer, as I often do.

Rejina Pyo cream, ￡325, Net-A-Porter; checked, ￡27.99, New Look; red cashmere, ￡85, Marks & Spencer

Suddenly, I have an entire arsenal of cardigans, and just one thing left on my shopping list: a non-toxic – for humans, at least – chrysanthemum moth spray (￡22, totalwardrobecare.co.uk): this early bird is determined not to have holes in her knits come spring.