5 Types of Hair Damage and What to Do About Each
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You take breaks from heat styling, use hair masks regularly, and extend the time between color appointments. You’re undoubtedly meticulous about your hair care, but somehow your strands still show signs of damage. Well, many culprits, like ponytails and stressful life events fly under our radar, but can still take a serious toll.
If your hair is lacking density, moisture, or luster, it might be time to diagnose the cause and work toward a solution. We spoke to experts for insight on each type of hair damage, the common causes, and how to reverse (or at least minimize) it.
Meet the experts:
Rachel Bodt is a colorist in New York City.
Ni'Kita Wilson is a New York City-based cosmetic chemist and the vice president of product development at Pattern Beauty.
James Corbett is a colorist and owner of James Corbett Studio in New York City.
Bridgette Hill is a trichologist and colorist at Paul Labrecque Salon and Skincare Spa in New York City.
Matt Rez is a colorist in Los Angeles.
Graham Nation is a colorist in Los Angeles.
Mona Gohara, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Branford, Connecticut, and an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine.
Francesca Fusco, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai in New York City.
Kavita Mariwalla, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in West Islip, New York.
Whitney Tolpinrud, MD is a board-certified dermatologist in San Francisco.
Marc Mena is a New York and Los Angeles-based hairstylist.
In this story:
Split ends
You don't need a microscope to spot split ends. A few telltale signs can help point to the problem. According to Rachel Bodt, a colorist in New York City, you'll know there is an issue "when the end of a hair strand is split into two or more heads or if the hair shaft feels rough due to micro chips," she says. "Plus, it will tangle a lot more with split ends."
In this case, cutting your hair is the best advice for banishing split ends. Bodt suggests getting a trim at least every two months. “Just a dusting,” Bodt says. “It doesn’t have to be a significant haircut to make a difference.”
Have fine hair? Then those regular appointments are even more important. "Think of it this way: What's easier to rip, a single piece of paper or 10 pages bound together?" says Ni'Kita Wilson, a cosmetic chemist. So if your hair is fine, it will be more susceptible to damage and need a little extra TLC. "Hair thickness has a lot to do with the actual size of the follicle,” Wilson explains. “If the follicle is narrow then the strand is thinner. If it's a wide follicle, the strands are thicker."
Need a temporary solution until your next cut? Split end-smoothing serums that contain polymers, like Oribe Split End Seal Beautiful Color Treatment and the Virtue Split End Serum, can fill those micro chips and visibly mend any splits. But remember, these treatments are temporary: They’ll wash out the next time you shampoo, so they’re not a substitute for a trim.
Oribe Split End Seal Beautiful Color Treatment
$48.00, Amazon
Virtue Split End Serum
$42.00, Amazon
Color damage
Even taking a break from regular foils won't undo years of stripping away and changing color. You have to wait for the color or bleach to grow out completely to eliminate the damage. Working with a trained professional who cares about the condition of your hair is the first step in making sure your color causes as little damage as possible.
"Choose a colorist who puts the integrity of your hair first," recommends James Corbett, colorist and owner of James Corbett Studio in New York City. "Some things that make a difference are proper use of color chemicals, not using too strong of a developer for the texture, and avoiding unnecessary overlap of color or bleach on previously colored hair. I often do a conditioning treatment instead of a gloss, because gloss still has peroxide in it.”
A thoughtful at-home color maintenance plan can help too. There's a reason hairstylists recommend utilizing color-safe products. "The wrong shampoo can over-lift the cuticle and cause more color fading and loss of moisture," explains Los Angeles-based colorist Matt Rez.
Allure editors love Best of Beauty Award winner Sachajuan Colour Protect Shampoo, which gently cleanses and leaves hair extra soft. For a leave-in treatment, Rez recommends Redken’s Extreme Bleach Recovery Cica Cream, which includes cica. (Rez is an ambassador for the brand.) This leafy green herb is full of amino acids, beta-carotene, fatty acids, and vitamins C, A, B1, and B2 that give it soothing and reparative benefits to promote healthy, strong hair between salon visits. We love the Better Not Younger Superpower Fortifying Hair & Scalp Serum, which also contains cica along with ginger extract to help nourish your strands.
For those with both colored and textured hair, damage can look even more dramatic. "Bleached and overprocessed hair will [reveal damage faster] than healthy hair," says Los Angeles-based hairstylist Graham Nation. "Curly hair will get drier quicker. It needs extra moisture to help curls come to life."
He recommends that those with textured hair use hair masks and deep conditioning treatments more often. Briogeo's Don't Despair, Repair Deep Conditioning Mask is a favorite of Allure readers and editors.
Briogeo Don't Despair Repair Deep Conditioner Mask
$39.00, Nordstrom
Chemical damage
Chemical treatments, like relaxers and perms, can strip the hair and lead to breakage. “Relaxers and perms use strong chemicals to alter the natural structure of the hair,” says Mona Gohara, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Branford, Connecticut. “Relaxers typically use sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide to break down the protein bonds in the hair, making it straight, while perms use ammonium thioglycolate to break and reform your hair’s disulfide bonds to create curls or waves. Remember that scene in Legally Blonde?”
Your best defense? Prevention. "Your goal should be to first prevent further damage by adjusting the hairstyling habits that created the problem and implementing practices that promote hair health,” says Bridgette Hill, a trichologist and colorist at Paul Labrecque Salon and Skincare Spa in New York City. The second goal, she says, is to establish a weekly deep treatment routine consistently for four to six weeks.
She recommends using a pretreatment like the Philip Kingsley Elasticizer before an evening shower. "Apply a protein treatment to dry, dirty hair before you shampoo, the way you would a mask," she says.
Philip Kingsley Elasticizer
$52.00, Amazon
Then comb the product through your strands before twisting your hair into a loose, low bun. Leave the treatment in for 10 to 20 minutes, per the instructions. "This allows the hair to absorb the needed protein that will aid in strengthening the hair fiber as well as providing the foundation for all of the moisturizing elements from the shampoo and conditioner to properly adhere to the hair for maximum efficacy," says Hill.
Keeping your hair hydrated is equally as important. "Focus on the damaged area,” Hill explains. "[Moisturizing treatments] on the ends of the hair fiber will not weigh it down or make it greasy if it’s used properly and designed for your specific hair type and texture. For example, finer hair textures may consider using water-based leave-in conditioning sprays.”
Heat damage
Frequently using hot tools in your hair routine can reveal itself in multiple ways. “Daily heat styling can be damaging to the hair and scalp and using heat styling tools such as flat irons and curling irons too frequently can lead to dryness, breakage, and split ends,” says Whitney Tolpinrud, MD, a board-certified dermatologist.
The derm explains that “heat can indeed open up the hair cuticle” and when this happens it can strip hair of its natural moisture, making it more prone to damage and frizz. Dr. Tolpinrud says that heat-protectant products, lower heat settings on styling tools, and styles that don’t require heat can all help prevent existing damage from getting worse. Heat-protectant products usually come in the form of leave-in sprays but can also come as creams or even mousses and are designed to provide some level of protection against heat-styling tools, which, in general, range in temperature from 120 to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
Our favorite heat-protectant products include the Bumble and Bumble Invisible Oil Primer, which has a light, creamy texture that adds moisture to the hair while prepping it for heat styling, and the Moroccanoil Perfect Defense Heat Protectant Spray which adds shine and luster in addition to protective qualities.
Bumble and Bumble Invisible Oil Primer
$34.00, Amazon
Moroccanoil Perfect Defense Heat Protectant Spray
$30.00, Amazon
Dr. Tolpinrud says there is no optimal universal temperature to use when heat styling and that claims made by manufacturers [about which temperature is best for heat styling] can vary widely. It’s always safer to aim for a low setting between 120 and 250 degrees. “Check [the packaging on] your specific heat protectant to ensure it offers enough protection for the tool you're using,” says Dr. Tolpinrud. “Most products will indicate the temperature up to which they are designed to protect hair.”
Hair thinning or loss
First things first: There is a difference between hair thinning and loss, says Dr. Tolpinrud. “Hair thinning refers to a decrease in hair density or the diameter of individual hair strands, resulting in hair that appears less full and thinner. It can be characterized by the gradual reduction in hair volume.”
“When patients refer to hair loss they usually report a noticeable increase of shedding,” says Francesca Fusco, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai in New York.
Since these are different issues, they likely have different causes. “[Hair thinning] with no visible shedding is referred to as ‘miniaturization’ and is seen in female pattern thinning, also known as androgenetic alopecia,” says Fusco. “Hair loss is caused by dozens of things that can include underlying endocrine [hormone] issues, stress, medication, postpartum, dandruff, psoriasis, autoimmune diseases, nutritional deficiencies, allergic reactions, and more.”
Braids and tight ponytails can lead to loss, too. "Pulling at the hair or causing traction can weaken the hair and follicle, contributing to hair loss," says Dr. Fusco. Take a break from taut styles to reduce tension and preserve the root. If you're experiencing hair loss, Dr. Fusco recommends booking an appointment with your dermatologist. "Your dermatologist may recommend a range of treatments that include supplements, topical agents like minoxidil, low-level light therapy like HairMax, and platelet-rich plasma therapy," she says.
Hairmax PowerFlex 272 Laser Cap
$1499.00, Hairmax
It takes patience, but hairstylist Marc Mena has seen his clients grow stronger, healthier hair after three months on Nutrafol, an oral supplement, and Allure 2018 Best of Beauty Breakthrough Award winner. “It’s got herbal medicines at pharmaceutical-grade doses,” says Kavita Mariwalla, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in West Islip, New York. “It's been shown to stimulate hair growth and its curcumin decreases inflammation that can contribute to hair loss.” A double-blind study of 40 healthy women between the ages of 21 and 65 with self-perceived thinning and hair loss showed an increase in both thickness and growth after six months on the supplement.
So, whether it’s limp strands from excessive heat or breakage from chemical overprocessing, there is hope for your damaged hair—and ways to avoid the same issues in the future.
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