13 of the Biggest Fashion Designer Arrivals and Exits in 2024
This past year seemed to serve as an endless shuffle of C-suite business executives, and the same could be said about creative talent.
From Dries Van Noten’s surprising retirement to Matthieu Blazy’s arrival at Chanel, this year was filled with an unexpected shuffle in the creative director world.
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As we look back on the year, FN rounds up the 13 biggest fashion designer arrivals and exits of 2024.
Bottega Veneta
Earlier this month, Bottega Veneta selected Louise Trotter to succeed Matthieu Blazy. This confirms a report by FN sister publication WWD on Dec. 6. She will join Bottega Veneta at the end of January.
“I am pleased to welcome Louise as our new creative director. Her aesthetic seamlessly combines exquisite design with sublime craft and her commitment to cultural advocacy aligns beautifully with our brand vision,” said Leo Rongone, chief executive officer of Bottega Veneta, in a statement issued at the end of trading. “Through her sophisticated lens, Bottega Veneta will continue to celebrate its heritage while preserving modern relevance. I also want to express my profound appreciation for Matthieu, who has been an extraordinary partner in infusing our brand with desirability, emotional resonance and intellectual identity.”
Trotter joins from Carven, a position she’s held since February 2023 and her first collection for the brand bowed in September last year during Paris Fashion Week.
Celine
In October, Celine named Michael Rider its new artistic director, succeeding Hedi Slimane. He starts in early 2025.
FN sister publication WWD reported on April 24 that Celine was girding for a possible Slimane exit and had lined up a potential successor in Rider, creative director at Polo Ralph Lauren.
It marks a return to the French house for Rider, who logged a decade as Celine’s design director of ready-to-wear from 2008 to 2018, working under then-creative director Phoebe Philo.
Chanel
Earlier this month, Chanel selected Matthieu Blazy as its new artistic director of fashion activities, putting an end to months of speculation around the position described as the most coveted job in fashion.
Blazy, the former Bottega Veneta creative director, will be responsible for all haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections and will report to Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion and president of Chanel SAS.
The 40-year-old designer is due to join the house in the first half of 2025, most likely in April, and will show his first collection in October.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten, who retired from the runway earlier this year, said he has “complete confidence” in Julian Klausner as his successor.
Earlier this month, the Puig-owned fashion house announced the appointment of Klausner, who designed womenswear alongside the Belgian founder for the past six years.
This confirms a report by FN sister publication WWD on Nov. 26 that Klausner was poised for a big promotion.
“He is not only a talented designer, but also a clear choice to take over after my departure,” Van Noten said in a statement. “His deep understanding of the brand and its values will ensure a seamless transition and a bright future.”
Fendi
In October, Kim Jones and Fendi announced they were parting ways after an eventful four-year collaboration that saw the Roman house dabble with collaborations, and destination shows.
The British designer, whose title at Fendi was artistic director of haute couture, ready-to-wear and fur collections for women, is to continue in his role as artistic director of men’s collections at Dior in Paris.
There was no mention of the succession plan at the time, only that “a new creative organization for Fendi” would be announced “in due time.”
Givenchy
In September, Givenchy selected Sarah Burton as its new creative director.
The British designer, who spent her entire fashion career at Alexander McQueen in London, becomes Givenchy’s eighth designer — and its second female couturier.
She will be introduced this week to the workers in the ateliers at Avenue George V — a storied ritual in French fashion — and she is expected to present her first designs for Givenchy during Paris Fashion Week in March 2025.
“It is a great honor to be joining the beautiful house of Givenchy, it is a jewel,” said Burton, whose creative responsibilities cover all women’s and men’s collections. “I am so excited to be able to write the next chapter in the story of this iconic house and to bring to Givenchy my own vision, sensibility and beliefs.”
Helmut Lang
Designer Peter Do parted ways with Helmut Lang in November.
In a statement at the time, the brand said, “Helmut Lang announces that Peter Do will be stepping down from his position as creative director at the end of this month.”
“I want to express my deepest gratitude to Peter for his exceptional creative leadership and vision and wish him continued success in his future endeavors,” Kazumi Yanai, chairman of Helmut Lang, said in the statement.
“Peter Do joined Helmut Lang in 2023, bringing a fresh perspective and revitalizing the brand for a new generation. He reinforced the brand’s reputation for pushing boundaries while honoring its minimalist roots,” the statement continued.
Lanvin
In June, Lanvin selected Peter Copping – a seasoned British designer who has helmed Oscar de la Renta and Nina Ricci – as its new artistic director.
He was to start in September, and is expected to immediately turn his hand to the house’s pre-fall 2025 collections. The exact timing of his runway debut could not immediately be learned. He is to oversee womenswear and menswear collections.
Most recently, Copping worked at Balenciaga where he “directed the ateliers for the reintroduction of the couture collection,” according to Lanvin.
Maison Martin Margiela
Maison Margiela and John Galliano announced the end of their 10-year collaboration earlier this month.
Disclosing the development exclusively to FN sister publication WWD, Italian fashion titan Renzo Rosso and Galliano characterized their partnership as enriching, life-changing and groundbreaking.
It culminated with the spring 2024 Maison Margiela Artisanal show last January that won universal acclaim, put full-throttle creativity back on the industry agenda and propelled Galliano to the very top of the fashion heap.
Galliano did not say what he might do next, and Maison Margiela has yet to disclose its succession plan.
Marcelo Burlon
In April, Marcelo Burlon announced he was stepping down from his role as creative director of the County of Milan brand he founded in 2012.
The brand’s parent New Guards Group said in a statement that the County of Milan team will design the collections going forward.
The unexpected development came as the fate of New Guards Group remained in doubt following the rescue of its owner, Farfetch, by Coupang. As reported, Style Capital is eyeing the acquisition of NGG but a deal has yet to materialize.
Moschino
In January, Moschino named Adrian Appiolaza its new creative director, overseeing the women’s, men’s and accessories collections and reporting to Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of parent company Aeffe SpA.
Appiolaza brings to Moschino a decade of experience as women’s ready-to-wear design director at Loewe, working with creative director JW Anderson. He previously held the same role at Chloé with Clare Waight Keller.
His first collection for Moschino bowed for the women’s fall season on Feb. 22 at Museo della Permanente during Milan Fashion Week.
“After the recent events at Moschino, the arrival of Adrian felt like a ray of sunshine in a gloomy sky,” Ferretti told FN sister publication WWD, referring to the premature death of previous creative director Davide Renne last November.
Tom Ford
In September, Tom Ford appointed Haider Ackermann to the creative director role vacated by Peter Hawkings in July, less than a year after he stepped into the role following founder Ford’s exit. The Tom Ford brand was acquired by the Estée Lauder Companies for $2.8 billion in 2022. Marcolin SpA was licensed by Lauder for the eyewear business.
Founder Tom Ford said, “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work. I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colorist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all he is modern. We share many of the same historical references, and I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand. I suspect that I will be the first on my feet to applaud after his show in March.”
Ackermann’s first collection will debut at Paris Fashion Week in March 2025. He will be based in Paris and report to Guillaume Jesel, president and chief executive officer of Tom Ford and luxury business development at The Estée Lauder Cos., and Lelio Gavazza, CEO of Tom Ford Fashion at Zegna Group.
Valentino
In March, Valentino confirmed the arrival of Alessandro Michele as creative director of the Rome-based couture house. He succeeds Pierpaolo Piccioli, who exited the brand this year after 25 years. Michele left his role as creative director of Gucci in November 2022.
Michele’s first collection was for spring 2025. Piccioli’s fall 2024 all-black collection shown during Paris Fashion Week was his swansong for the brand.
“I am grateful to Pierpaolo for his role as creative director and for his vision, commitment and creativity that have brought the Maison Valentino to what it stands for today,” chief executive officer Jacopo Venturini said at the time of his exit.
“We extend our deepest gratitude to Pierpaolo for writing an important chapter in the history of the Maison Valentino. His contribution over the past 25 years will leave an indelible mark,” added Rachid Mohamed Rachid, chairman of Valentino.
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