Why 4 p.m. at Otto's is a special moment to witness | Highly Recommended

It was 4 p.m. when we arrived at Otto’s on a recent Monday, just as the manager was unlocking the doors for dinner service. I was with two old high school friends, Becky and Dave. The weather was warm and Becky wanted to sit outside on the sidewalk, but I insisted we sit inside, instead.

I like sitting in restaurants just as they open. It gives me a chance to experience the calm before the dinner rush storm. I can have a cocktail and a light bite before dinner. I can watch the staff awakening as they recalibrate for what's to come. Otto's is a great place to do it.

– At the Table: Sign up for Keith Pandolfi's weekly food newsletter –

Opened in 2003, the place has always walked a fine line between a reliable neighborhood joint – with its battered wood floors and mismatched chairs – and something a bit more elegant. There are white tablecloths and fresh flowers on the table, the bar seating is plush and the staff is professional. Local artwork hangs on the beadboard walls and colorful bottles are placed along its transom windows.

The menu leans toward Southern fare with fried green tomatoes, Southern fried pork chops with hot bacon slaw and Cajun-style pastas. But there's also tomato dill soup and brie and berry salads, a seared beef tenderloin or a pistachio-encrusted halibut. It's the kind of restaurant you could take anyone any day and always find something you're in the mood to eat.

I ordered a plate of fried green tomatoes and a burrata for us to share over a round of beers. We talked about Dave’s job at a local distillery, some friends of ours who had moved away and the most recent adventures of Becky's two adult daughters. A couple arrived for dinner just as we were settling our check. I felt a little envious that they were just getting started on their night out at Otto's. But I was happy knowing we'd played some small part of warming things up.

Along with dinner, Otto's is also open for lunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Friday and for breakfast/brunch 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. 521 Main St., Covington, 859-451-6678, ottosonmain.com.

Highly Recommended is a weekly spotlight on some of food writer Keith Pandolfi's favorite finds as he eats his way across Greater Cincinnati. Find more of his recent food writing here.

Highly Recommended Hall of Fame

??: Grocery store fried chicken

??: You should have lunch at Scotti's

??: This chicken soup is 100% grandma-worthy

??: A trolley burger with a side of spicy history

??: This is the best potato chip in Cincinnati

This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: Why late afternoons at Otto's in Covington are ... Highly Recommended