Review: Pie95 Pizza parks truck, opens brick-and-mortar spot in Riverside

Five years in the (dough) making, food truck turned brick-and-mortar pizzeria Pie95 Pizza has arrived near the busy Riverside intersection of Park and King streets. It officially opened on "Pi Day," March 14.

Look behind the counter and you'll see owner and chef Evan Eriksen slinging pies in the open kitchen. A few tables are available for dine-in inside, but don’t forget to head out the back door to discover the secret patio oasis. Here we snagged a picnic table beneath strands of twinkling string lights.

With nine wood-fired pizzas to choose from, plus a "build your own" option (starting at $15.50), there’s something for everyone. Vegans can opt for dairy-free, vegan cheese for an additional $3.

Now open in Riverside: Pie95 Pizza is not your typical wood-fired pizza joint

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Pie95’s pizzas are light, with a chewy crust and just the right amount of char. They take less than three minutes to make, so if you’re hungry they’ll be out expeditiously.

My husband went with the pepperoni ($17.50) and added cherry tomatoes ($1.50). To contrast, I ordered one of my favorites from Pie95’s food truck days: the sauceless Bianaca ($16.50). I love the mozzarella paired with garlic, olive oil, oregano and lemon wedge. A side of spicy Calabrian chili peppers in oil adds the right amount of heat.

We started with the meatballs ($12.50) topped with homemade pomodoro sauce, a touch of Mike’s Hot Honey, black pepper and Parmesan cheese. This trio of plump beauties disappeared fast.

I also tried the Pie95’s arugula salad ($7), which is akin to a Caesar that swaps romaine for arugula and croutons for pine nuts. There’s still plenty of freshly shaved Parmesan on top. I like this plot twist.

The BBR is a wood-fired white pizza (no sauce) topped with bacon, spicy buffalo sauce and ranch dressing.
The BBR is a wood-fired white pizza (no sauce) topped with bacon, spicy buffalo sauce and ranch dressing.

Just because you think the wood-fired pizza is great, don’t miss the wood-fired jumbo wings ($7 small, $13 large)! Choose from mango habanero, curry lemon pepper and classic buffalo. We loved the depth of flavor created by the curry lemon pepper.

A friend at a nearby table had the BBR ($17.50) pizza, of which I snagged a spicy bite. The white Bianca gets a subtle makeover here — no lemon, but there’s bacon, buffalo and ranch. It’s salty, spicy and savory. Veggie lovers will enjoy the Herbivore ($19.50) with artichoke, fresh basil, cherry tomatoes, arugula, red onion, jalapeno and black olives.

As for beverages, Pie95 keeps it easy and offers five canned beers, four wines (I had the Scarpetta Frico blanco, $7, which paired harmoniously with everything), and four sodas.

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Caron Streibich is an avid food-lover who reviews restaurants in the Life section. Follow her dining adventures at facebook.com/caroneats and #caroneats on Instagram.

Pie95 Pizza

1510 King St.

Pie95pizza.com

Side of town: Riverside.

Hours: 5-9 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday.

Prices: salads, $7; appetizers, $11.50; meatballs, $12.50; wood-fired wings $7/$13, wood-fired pizzas, $13.50-$19.50; dessert, $6.50.

Alcohol: Beer and wine.

This article originally appeared on Florida Times-Union: Jacksonville restaurant review: Pie95 Pizzeria in Riverside