Memphis in May: Why 'Winningest Woman in Barbecue' is getting a hand from Junior Pitmasters
Melissa Cookston, the "Winningest Woman in Barbecue," is getting a little help from the Tallulah Falls Pit Vipers at this year's Memphis in May World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest.
Cookston invited the team from Tallulah Falls, Georgia, to represent the World Junior BBQ League and cook with her team at this year's competition.
"They're just soaking it all in which is so special, you know, to come to the World Championship is an honor for any of us, but for these kids who love to cook competition barbecue, I think they're pretty amazed by it," said Cookston, who owns Memphis Barbecue Company restaurant in Horn Lake and was inducted into the Barbecue Hall of Fame in 2017.
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"I'm so proud of them for their willingness to get out and do what we adults do because it's grueling, not only emotionally, but physically, as well. And it's one of those things that adults find difficult, but when you can get a group of teenagers to endeavor this sport, it's pretty special."
The World Championship Barbecue Cooking Contest kicked off Wednesday at the Fairgrounds in Liberty Park. This year 215 teams are competing at the event, which wraps up Saturday.
In 2021 Cookston launched the World Junior BBQ League, a nonprofit organization aiming to engage kids ages 14-18 in barbecue competitions.
The Tallulah Falls Pit Vipers won the Junior League's championship, earning a spot on Cookston's team for the Memphis in May contest.
The five high schoolers — Marc Crotta, Brooke Hayes, Jake Owensby, Matthew Wolfe and Teryk Tilley — are responsible for preparing ancillary dishes including chicken wings, seafood and beef.
Crotta, 16, has been cooking with the Vipers since his freshman year. He said he's enjoyed his time at the competition so far, but the pressure will really ramp up when it's his turn to cook lamb, a dish that will compete as a non-traditional meat.
But he's taking it easy. A lesson he's learned over the last two days he's spent with Cookston's team is that cooking is just as much instinct as it is discipline.
"When I started, I thought it was gonna be very hard and strict and everything, but it's kind of just go with what's happening and go with the flow. Just enjoy it. Just enjoy everything you can," Crotta said. "Even when sometimes it gets hard and stressful, just do what you know how to do. And if you can't control it, don't worry about it."
Coach Tom Tilley started the team in 2018 and has led it to place in competitions all over the South with its typical repertoire of chicken, St. Louis ribs and pork brisket.
"The thing is, is we're doing [things] we've never done before. So this experience is so valuable," Tilley said, but he has complete faith in his team. "They're not gonna be intimidated by anything new or a hiccup. That's what they're good at."
The league's mission is to teach teens life skills including leadership, teamwork, strategic planning, organizational skills, time management, work ethic, emotional focus in a competitive environment and culinary skills.
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As a woman pitmaster in a male-dominated space, Cookston understands how rare that may be, but she mentors Hayes, 16, no differently than she doethe men on the team.
"I've really never tried to differentiate myself from the men in this sport. And I try to sway her to do the same. We're not any different," Cookston said. "So we just work just as hard as everyone else, and let the chips fall where they may."
Cookston has earned her veteran status as a barbecue champion, but she said being around the young pitmasters has reinvigorated her love for barbecue.
"I think it's given me a new lease on my passion for barbecue. ... It's inspired me again. ... I've been cooking competition barbecue for 25 years. And I think it gets to a point where you just kind of become on autopilot. But seeing the fire in their eyes has inspired me."
Commercial Appeal reporter Gina Butkovich contributed to this report.
Astrid Kayembe covers South Memphis, Whitehaven and Westwood. She can be reached at [email protected], (901) 304-7929 or on Twitter @astridkayembe_.
This article originally appeared on Memphis Commercial Appeal: Memphis in May BBQ contest: Melissa Cookston, Junior Pitmasters team up